insider guru ari Nayak is a chef, author ADVENTUREs iN flavoR. and restaurateur. But most moDern inDian chef hari nayak of all, perhaps, he is an shares his favorite Dishes from adventurer. “I have never his homelanD. By Lara Day stopped exploring the Hmany facets of my own native cooking—be it traditional, regional or contemporary,” says the New York–based Indian food expert, renowned for his fresh takes on the flavors of his homeland. “I keep returning to India, traveling extensively and eating my way around its diverse regions, all in the name of research.” Since leaving his coastal hometown of southern spice Clockwise from below: Udupi, in southwestern India, the Culinary My Indian Kitchen, Institute of America–trained Nayak has a new book by chef Hari Nayak; Hari Nayak; pioneered Indian cuisine globally. In 2007 he Indian spices; modern co-authored Modern Indian Cooking, a landmark Indian bistro Orissa, in Dobbs Ferry, New York. tome that Daniel Boulud described as lending “a new dimension to food.” And, since 2009, he has shone as executive chef of contemporary Indian bistro Orissa, in New York, with dishes like fresh tomato soup spiked with fennel, cumin and chili, and the Orissa bison burger, oiseeva/Dreamstime.com; m paired with green-chili chutney and crispy l e n a okra. Most recently, his new book, My Indian e Kitchen, reveals the secrets of his family’s style of Indian cooking as well as recipes from around the country. Read on to find out Nayak’s favorite dishes from south India. ✚ Nayak will cook at the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok (fourseasons.com/bangkok) during the 12th clockwise from top left: © Annual World Gourmet Festival, September 5 to 11. courtesy of hari nayak (3) 52 september 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com nAYAK’s south inDiAn must-eAts MASALA DOSA | BangaLore, KarnataKa “this fermented crepe, a pancake made with rice and black lentils, is a staple in south india,” says nayak. “it’s filled with mustard and turmeric potatoes, and is often served with a bowl of sambar [lentil and vegetable stew] and coconut chutney.” where to try it nayak favors Kamat Lokaruchi restaurant (Unity Bldg., #7, J.C. Rd.; 91-80/2223-5487; breakfast for two Rp200). “it’s a crowded place, especially on weekends. the experience is best during breakfast hours.” KeraLa KoKUM FiSh CURRY | KoChi, KeraLa “the Kerala-style curry’s sour flavor from kokum fruit and coconut milk,” nayak explains. “eat it with appam, a fermented soft bread made of rice batter and cooked on a stone griddle.” where to try it More FroM nayaK “the grand hotel restaurant [M.G. Rd., For a Q&a with hari nayaK, visit Ernakulam; 91-484/238-2061; dinner for two travelandleisureasia.com. Rp650] is a must-visit. Faultless food in a huge dining hall, filled to the brim with a loyal indian clientele, make this 20-minute trip from Fort Kochi worth it. book ahead.” MaLaBar MUTTON BIRIYANI | MangaLore, KarnataKa “Fragrant steamed rice combine with bone mutton and flavors of saffron, mint, green chilies and whole spices in this dish.” where to try it “mangalore isn’t far from my hometown, and whenever i’m home, i always go for one meal of the sumptuous moghul- IDLI VADA SAMBAR | Madurai, taMiL nadu style malabar biriyani served at royal “Idli are steamed white fluffy fermented rice PorK SORPOTEL with SANNA | Darbar [Bendorewell–Kankanady Rd.; and black lentil cakes, while vada are savory goa, KonKan “Sorpotel, a spicy 91-824/243-7588; dinner for two doughnuts made with lentils and spices. they ourtesy of Bhooshaniyer / and sour pork stew, is a dish of where to try it c Rp400],” says nayak. “the meat is go with sambar and chutney.” portuguese origin common in the cooked to perfection—it falls off the “i’m huge fan of street-food, and in madurai i coastal Konkan region, primarily ourtesy of joegoaukfishcurryrice / bone—the rice is fragrant and soft, and always make a stop at the Murugan idli Shop c Goa and mangalore. it’s often the spices complement the sweetness stall [Madurai Railway Junction, 4th and 5th accompanied by sanna—spongy, of the saffron and the rosewater.” platform; muruganidlishop.com; 91-452/2342- l i c k r . c o m white, slightly sweet steamed f 551; lunch for two Rp100] in the train station. rice cakes.” where to try it the fluffy, melt-in-your-mouth idli come with a lickr.com; “i discovered Durigo Bar & f choice of four chutneys—it’s sometimes oiseeva/Dreamstime.com; / restaurant [Luta Ferrao Rd., D m difficult to choose which is best!” Grande Vanelim, Colva Beach; i n o v 91-832/278-8364; lunch for two l e n a e Rp1,250] almost by accident on one of my frequent trips to KUnDaPUr ChiCKen ghee ROASt | BangaLore, Goa—a bus conductor taking me KarnataKa “Ghee roast is one of the most popular from the beach to my hotel delicacies of mangalore, popularized by a community in recommended it. the pork Kundapur, a small town in coastal Karnataka. today every sorpotel was a blessing to this mangalorean restaurant serves ghee roast, a spicy red ourtesy of Bhooshaniyer / ourtesy of chef c tired foodie’s soul. the place is chicken dish made with red-chili paste, garlic and ghee.” c run by a family, and the honesty where to try it Kanua (6/2 Kaikondrahalli, Sarjapur Rd.; shows in the food.” 91-80/6537-4471; dinner for two Rp2,000), an authentic mangalorean restaurant. nayak suggests going in the evening for the best atmosphere and for the “delightful lickr.com;licker.com; clockwise from top left: courtesy of hari nayak (3); f f clockwise from top left: © courtesy of hari nayak (3) conversation with owner rajesh pai.” travelandleisureasia.com | september 2011 53.