Spring 2018 €3.95 UK£3.40 ISSN 0790 8008 Issue 125 Expedition to Patagonia Irish team succeeds on South Avellano Tower The King’s Trail A remote wilderness route in Sweden www.mountaineering.ie Photographs: Pietro Bertera (main photo), Elaine Mullan (walkers in snow), marlenka (girl on road), Matteo Galli (valley view) A word from the edItor ISSUE 125 The Irish Mountain Log is the membership magazine of Mountaineering Ireland. The organisation promotes the interests of hillwalkers and climbers in Ireland. Mountaineering Ireland Welcome Mountaineering Ireland Ltd is a company limited by guarantee and éad míle fáilte! The start of registered in Dublin, No 199053. Registered office: Irish Sport HQ, another year and already we are National Sports Campus, well into it, with spring now well Blanchardstown, Dublin 15, Ireland. upon us. Another year and it Tel: (+353 1) 625 1115 C Fax: (+353 1) 625 1116 brings a new Strategic Plan for our new Strategic Plan will [email protected] Mountaineering Ireland. b❝e the blueprint for www.mountaineering.ie The Draft Strategic Plan 2018-2021 was discussed at the Members’ Forum during mountaineering Ireland’s Hot Rock Climbing Wall our Spring Gathering and AGM in the Glen Tollymore Mountain Centre of Aherlow, Co Tipperary. The plan is development over the next Bryansford, Newcastle County Down, BT33 0PT available for downloading on the website four years. Tel: (+44 28) 4372 5354 and final comments can be submitted [email protected] now before it is finalised and published by the Board of Mountaineering Ireland. submitted are published on pages 6 and 7, Editor: Patrick O’Sullivan Tel: (+353 1) 837 8166 (pm, wknds) This is an important time for your and to my mind they are really quite [email protected] National Governing Body, as the Strategic inspiring. Thank you very much to everyone Literary Editor: Peter O’Neill Plan is the blueprint for the organisation’s who submitted their favourite view. [email protected] development over the next four years. The inaugural Killarney Mountain Festival was held over the weekend of March 9-11 th . The Irish Mountain Log is published by Members’ engagement with, and Mountaineering Ireland four times a ownership of, the Strategic Plan is essential It was a great success and very well year, in March, June, September, for its successful implementation. supported, with some great speakers and December. The material published in This, the first issue of the Irish Mountain films. It augurs well for future such events. the Log by the voluntary editorial team (See our report, page 16.) and contributors must not be taken as Log for 2018, is full of interesting material. official Mountaineering Ireland policy The result of the Christmas crossword Finally, in the features, Paul Swail reports unless specifically stated. competition is announced on page 9. on what was a very successful and There seemed to be a lot of interest in it enjoyable climbing trip to Patagonia, when Copy deadline for the Summer 2018 this year and there were requests that we an Irish team made some impressive first issue of the Irish Mountain Log is Friday, May 18 th 2018. include a crossword competition more ascents (see pages 54-57). frequently; so we will look at that. As the evenings get longer and the Advertising: [email protected] The call for people to submit their weather improves, we can all hopefully look favourite views of mountains also got a forward to getting out more. Production: Cóilín MacLochlainn [email protected] great response, making judging difficult. The most interesting four images Patrick O’Sullivan, Editor Printing: GPS Colour Graphics Ltd, Alexander Road, Belfast BT6 9HP Tel: +44 (0)28 9070 2020 PARTICIPATION AND RISK Readers of the Irish Mountain Log are Write for the Log reminded that hillwalking and climbing are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and Contributions of features, news items and photographs for accept these risks, and be responsible the Irish Mountain Log are always welcome and should be for their own actions and involvement. sent to the Editor at: [email protected]. Mountaineering Ireland publishes and promotes safety and good practice advice and through Bord Oiliúint Sléibhe Contributors’ guidelines can be downloaded from the (BOS, the Irish Mountain Training Board) Mountaineering Ireland website, www.mountaineering.ie. administers a range of training ON THE COVER programmes for walkers and climbers. To join Mountaineering Ireland and receive four issues of the tackling the first pitch on the east face Irish Mountain Log delivered to your door each year, please route of the South Avellano tower in also go to the website, www.mountaineering.ie. Patagonia. See story, page 54. PHOTOGRAPH the IrISh torreS del AvellANo ClImbINg exPedItIoN 2018 Spring 2018 Irish Mountain Log 3 CONTENTS Spring 2018 Relaxing at the Erzherzog Johann Hütte during the Coconuts Hillwalking Club’s trip to Austria. See story, page 36. News 19 Club Training Officers meeting Features Greg Kenny reports 5 Strategic Plan 2018-2021 44 A weekend in North Wales ) l 20 The ultimate tick list l a Daniel O’Brien reports l 6 What’s your view? w 22 Winter Meet 2018 k Helen Lawless reports 48 The King’s Trail c Ruairi English reports o r Fran Lynch and Fióna Gallagher t o 8 Frank Nugent delivers 22 Irish Mountaineering Club H report ( Lynam Lecture n talks o i 52 Italy’s Lake Garda t c 10 Mountain Rescue Ireland Patrick O’Sullivan reports e 23 MountainViews Gathering l l o Ruth Cunniffe reports C 24 Beara-Iveragh Double 54 Patagonian first ascent y o 11 Volunteers restore old path Paul Swail reports r Horseshoe n Brian Madden reports o Aidan Ennis postscript C n i 12 Get Ireland Walking rolls Regulars v e K out more projects , News Features ) 58 Access & Conserva tion t Jason King reports n e 26 Wicklow Uplands Council Helen Lawless reports g u 14 Agri-environment scheme Jim Sheehan reports N 60 Training k for the Kerry Reeks n Jane Carney reports a 28 Fiche bliain ag fás r Trisha Deane reports F ( Catherine Doyle profiles the 62 Books n 14 Birds of prey are nesting a Crannagh Ramblers of Inishowen v Reviews of recent publications i l l Helen Lawless reports u 30 Saint Jeannet S ’ 65 Reviews O 16 Killarney Mountain Festival Ian Lawler reports on a Dublin Reviews of recent films and plays k c i Cliffhangers Club trip to France r 16 Fair Head Meet 2018 t 66 The Last Word a Paul Swail reports P 32 Climbing in Calpe , Jim Bridwell ) w Fran Whelan reports on a Defence e 17 Irish Uplands Forum i v Georgia MacMillan reports Forces club trip to Spain n i a t 34 Calpe capers n 18 Get Climbing programme u o Grainne O’Brien reports Anna Clare McGarvey reports on a m Feel Good Factor club trip to Calpe n a i r t 36 Grossglockner s u Margaret Kennedy reports on a A ( n Coconuts Hillwalking Club trip o i t c e l l o Climbing C y d e 38 Hotrock Climbing Wall n n Kevin Conroy reports e K t 40 Lead climbing and e r a g bouldering competitions r a Damien O’Sullivan reports M : s Frank Nugent Kevin Conroy h p a r Training Opportunities g o t LYNAM LECTURE 2017 HOTROCK CLIMBING WALL o 43 Adventure degree h 8 38 P Joyce Meade reports 4 Irish Mountain Log Staff & Board General enquirieS [email protected] Staff Newsdesk Chief executive Officer Murrough McDonagh, [email protected] administration Officer Planning for Siobhán Quinn, [email protected] Membership Development Officer Ruth Whelan, [email protected] the future Hillwalking, access & Conservation Officer Helen Lawless, [email protected] mountaineering Ireland’s draft Strategic Plan 2018-2021 training Officer Representing and supporting hillwalking and climbing Jane Carney, [email protected] talent Development Officer Damien O’Sullivan, Mountaineering Ireland published its draft [email protected] Strategic Plan (2018-2021) in advance of the Youth Development Officer for Spring Gathering and AGM, which was held in the northern ireland Glen of Aherlow, Co Tipperary, over the weekend Kevin Kilroy, [email protected] of March 23-25 th . The plan was discussed at the Members’ Forum on the Sunday, March 25 th . Get irelanD WalkinG initiative Mountaineering Ireland’s purpose is “to Programme Manager, Get ireland Walking represent and support hillwalking and climbing.” Jason King, [email protected] Mountaineering Ireland’s vision in the new Project Coordinator – Men’s Sheds strategy is that hillwalkers and climbers will Project become more skilled, self-reliant and informed, Emer O’Leary, [email protected] that access will be improved, and that our MOuntaineerinG irelanD mountain landscapes will be valued and BOarD OffiCerS protected. President The strategy’s aim is to inspire and support Paul Kellagher hillwalking and climbing throughout the island of [email protected] Ireland and encourage adventure and exploration in the mountains of the world. Chairperson The values expressed in the strategy are: Paul Barron [email protected] Adventure • We find personal challenges in the hills, mountains, crags and climbing walls at BOarD MeMBerS whatever level Imelda Buckley • We recognise the value of the unknown and the uncertain outcomes of our [email protected] activities Helen Donoghue (Chair of Access & Conservation Committee) Personal responsibility [email protected] • We take personal responsibility for our actions and we manage the risk