The San Francisco Sunday Caß For the INDUSTRIOUS NEEDLEWOMAN Adelaide Byrd Daughter's Dresses season ushers In certain dis- a delicate lace yoke without any wear- tinctive marks that stamp Its sim- ing quality. EACHplest frocks as belonging to the year Soutache and heavy cotton star braid In\ question. Sometimes these differ- are effective upon linen, and the latest Centerpiece ences are so slight that an untrained fashion demands a touch of figured eye might pass the garment by as the foulaVdas tie and girdle. The four-in- sanite old gingham dress, but to those hand, looped through slots in the front in who know arid to "sweet sixteen" ,her- of the linen bodice, gives a good self they take on a great deal of im- chance for the touch of ornamental portance, these little changes, and each material of Persian. Indian or Egyp- little twist and turn of the styles gives tian design. the frock a definite position. Ginghams for the young girl are as Decided notes are readily" found, but goo 4styl-a this year as they have ever some of the. more obscure are scarcely been, and their outlines are most nor- discernible. There Is little change in mal. For instance, there Is no un- materials for young girls, there being necessary fulness in bodice, sleeve or ifew- new cottons and linens except skirt, and the belt has dropped to the. homespun "and hopsacklng. which are usual line of the waist. Field Daisies made in both, linen and cotton. The panel has more or less disap- That made of cotton has a burlap ap- peared, and in Paris the princes* ef- pearance and is not be altogether. Intended to fect has vanished J- laundered. Coat suits are made of It In To remodel a last year's princess dark and medium shades, and with very frock, have the panel in the front and little fulness and few pleats because of need at the back. also. But try weight. —if be— its The linen is sold for 73 cents to wedge in a little extra fulness on a yard, the cotton for 25 cents, and neces- each side of both panels at the back sarily the better of the two presents a and front of both bodice and skirt, .softer appearance inboth color. and tex- and gird this with a belt at each worthy polished in ture. Either one Is of side. Ifthere be no material to match, brass or steel buttons as a decoration. the inset of wide insertion or of all-" French linens hold their own as cos- over embroidery will supply some material, E.U. BUCKMAN tume and dress and of all width and help out the style so that the shades, rose, yellow blue and are it be not too passe. youthful most in evidence for dresses. Pipings are most effective, and those 'Garments made, of firm materials, of striped materials, cut biased and fold- such as linen and its suSstitutes, usu- ed, are most effectively used on plain ally a materials. To adorn the girlish ging- are made over model of sub- ham dress, there are plain pipings lot stantial style, and not suspended from in at every possible place. Fancy Chemisettes Ribbon Work < chemisette continues one of the the expense alone keeps best spaces for decoration on the many women from taking up the THEevening gown, and will be neces- PROBABLYbeautiful ribbon embroidery. This sary all summer on the garden-party is ideal work, however, for those who or afternoon- frocks. The Dutch neck, need not consider expense- and, too, for whether it be square or round, fre- those who make pin-money from their quently demands a lace inset; all fichu embroidered articles. They make an shoulder drapery admits of the let-in appeal to the paying public that less strip of lace across the back and front, elaborate fancy articles do not. and the gulmpe at times shows merely For the sake of economy all of the as a low-necked chemisette. ribbon from an eighth to an Inch In WJhether it be a flat strip of stuff or width should be got by tha piece. More be shirred upon a cord, whether it be of the extremely narrow widths willbo lace or plain net or sheer linen,-it may required, and it is economy In tha lons be decorated and by hand. In fact, run to lay ina fullsupply of the wanted handwork on "this most prominent part colors. of the garment adds the exclusive touch Corded silk and poplin are the* best that makes the gown. backgrounds for ribbon embroidery, and Here Is a nice little secret for the eco- all thinner silks should be basted first nomical: Cut out from old bobbinette upon an open-weave canvas to prevent the fine motif of hand embroidery and their pulling and drawing. All short applique itupon the new net chemisette, spaces may be crossed on the wrong or, if its surface is no longer perfect, side in going from Cower to flower, but place it beneath the net; that Us longer distances the ribbon is cut veiled; for beauty may be and in this last and a fresh start made with a small disposition of it. trace it round upon knot, both to prevent unsightly drawing the.upper side with a thread of gold or and as an economy in ribbon. silver. That delightful puffed effect in the For the» garment not intended to be blossoms will be destroyed ifthe ribbon laundered there are gold and— silver Is drawn too tightly, and all attempts paint upon white Spanish lace this for at fastening ends should be left until a gray dress. Itis put on in dabs just last,' ends be pasted with by way of effect, and a good one it will and the cut give. • library paste to the wrong side to in- Fine muslins are embroidered, as are sure flatness of background. sheer linen9, and the prettiest of dot- ted net is touched with applique of gold or silver braid tied in knots at inter- other half if the desire be for a Frenchy vals, or of the finest soutache tied in Use Discretion piece of work. The flower centers are knots. This last is cut, and «ach sepa- trimming the figured ma- to be; done in solid stitch or with a row rate knot is applied to a spot in the season, pattern. terials of the even in of French knots surrounding the solid WHENsimple tub dresses, do not ba work. beguiled into using figured embroidery White Is best in selecting the ma- or lace upon the woven or printed terials, pale yellow Curious Materials but the flower introduction odd bit figured surfaces. centers if green be chosen of an of Remember, may be used upon a very always.- that striped or for the leaves. -In this event, the petals material usual dreas plain surfaces will best decorate the will remain white. -as will the button- is one of the new notes in dress- figured \u25a0'\u25a0\u25a0 THE background. Bold motifs of scallops. holed, \u25a0•: making. There— is, for instance, red felt lace may sometimes be used to good Doilies to Follow. on broadcloth a bright flame red or an effect upon a small set figure, but English~pink— merest patch or strip the overlapping process usually means Next week two sizes of doilies willbe the excess, Is shown to match the centerpiece, and of it with a raw. cut edge as the one little else than an which with less according to their les- spot of color on a shepherd's plaid cos- never good. sening work satin. Trimming should decorate, should proportions. , . tume trimmed with black adorn, .By the diagram of the finished center- Chamois with cut edges appears on otherwise it is of no value: and piece shown' on the page you can get a another, and strange as it may seem, to best adorn the figured surface* very adequate idea of the finished piece the dress on which it was used was a will require the discretion of th« of work. :;.:; lavender linen. maker and the eye of an artist. ;T3ie scallop is simple/ and requires the usual padding before good buttonhol- ing may |be accomplished. The daisy is Jiere at its best, and the stems form a more than-:usually', pretty design for one bo simple and easy of accomplifih- njent. • You willwork all of the stems in out- line stitch, and if you' are * desirous of > having show {ieffectively ; at a daisies have come in\re- distance, them^ spcnse to manya" request :and in let ins suggest a doubled out- line process ; » the form- most often "asked for one in which the stitches j \u25a0 byr ;a more or less overlap to give added rich- FIELD \u25a0 our::workers.; One-third of \u25a0" - \u25a0\u25a0' ) the Jness'. ;.•/;\u25a0:\u25a0. i .; \u25a0\u25a0'. ;•\u25a0\u25a0• -:.; f. : centerpiece Is here shown, and for" In solid you will- tracing.of you will over-and-over stitch .the :othef: thirds i carry out the petals and each,- half of' swing the design round without taking it the serrated leaves. ;*' \u25a0r , from the material instead of lifting it Seed stitch may be substituted for up and layingit ovef.r * halffof each leaf, with solid for the Centerpiece Borders To Use India Print fT^HE bordering of the centerpiece FROM LEFT-OVERS TVL/UE and 'white India print cut Into I seems to cause much difficulty to 1rK :bias strips of varying widthmakes^ Crocheted \u25a0*• simply -\u25a0— Talk the Medallion anything to original beauty.