WINEWISE Volume 28 Number 3 August 2012 What’s In This Issue? Ahhhhh…..Chardonnay 2012 SMALL VIGNERON AWARDS hardonnay is the grape variety, Cwhite or red, in Australia right now, Page 3 Riesling and you need look no further than the results of the Winewise Small Vigneron Page 4 Semillon Awards for proof. Page 7 Sauvignon Blanc Fifty chardonnays, including three Page 8 Semillon & SB Blends “Outstandings” are reviewed, and the good news is that 21 of them are $30.00 Page 9 Chardonnay or less. Page 13 Pinot Gris The trend towards restraint in Page 13 Viognier chardonnay is commendable. Fat, over- oaked whites simply don’t make the Page 14 Verdelho grade, and balance, texture and finesse Page 14 Other Dry White are the key words. To many, “minerality” is the buzzword, but we fear that, to Page 15 Sweet White many commentators and sommeliers, “minerality” equates with “light and Page 16 Pinot Noir acidic”. Page 17 Shiraz Some writers instance chablis as the role Page 22 Cabernet Sauvignon model for the swing towards restraint. Fair enough, but don’t forget that high- Page 24 Other Red Varieties quality chablis is powerful and complex. It does not derive its quality from acidity Page 25 Classic Australian Blend alone. Page 26 Cabernet Blend Our three “Outstanding” chardonnays are all from cool regions, and all are Page 27 Sparkling Wine concentrated, complex and restrained. We won’t damn them with faint praise Page 27 Fortified Wine by describing them as “minerally”. <><><><><><><> One of the most exciting outcomes is the Page 28 Current releases emergence of Tumbarumba in New South Wales as a force at the quality end of the Page 30 Winewise Half-Dozen chardonnay market. I’m assisting in the organisation of the first Tumbarumba Page31 Gin and Fever-Tree Wine Show and will chair it in May, 2013. We’ll keep you posted. Next Issue Clonakilla Shiraz-Viognier - the complete vertical tasting Cheers, 2002 Clare riesling tasting Te Mata Estate verticals Madeira, sublime madeira Winburndale Shiraz vertical And two more vertical tastings & Voyager Estate Masterclass Many new releases reviewed Page 2 WINEWISE Volume 28 Number 3 August 2012 Riesling 2009 Eden Springs High Eden Riesling (G) Although showing every hese results are testimony to the bit of its three years in bottle, this is a Tspread of riesling across the country. delightfully drinkable riesling which is Four states and eleven regions are stylish and long-flavoured, balanced by represented in the results below and, in lively acidity. ($25.00) our view, NSW/ACT continues to rise in 11.4% Screwcap the riesling pecking order. Region: Eden Valley, SA In this class and all others, gold medal 2006 Tertini Crossroads Riesling winning wines are shown (G). A gold (G) A nicely developed, comparatively medal score is 18.5 (or higher) out of sweet riesling with excellent depth of 20.0, averaged over all three judges. flavour and cleansing acidity. A most NOTE: All gold medal winners in enjoyable drink. ($30.00) the Small Vigneron Awards will 11.4% Screwcap be eligible for the 2013 Winewise Region: Southern Highlands, NSW Championship. 2010 Half Moon Riesling This is Highly Recommended an appealing, slightly sweet riesling which is philosophically aligned with the German approach. The delicacy, fragrance and balance are commendable. Screwcap Region: Braidwood, NSW 2011 Robert Stein Riesling Another riesling that nods to Germany with its faint sweetness, fragrance and acid balance. Well made. ($30.00) 11.5% Screwcap Region: Mudgee, NSW Recommended 2012 Robert Stein Riesling Although it’s a touch forward, this wine is packed with flavour and has plenty of acid to balance it in the short term. ($30.00) 11.5% Screwcap Region: Mudgee, NSW 2011 Naked Run ‘The First’ Riesling 2011 Gilberts Mt Barker Riesling Shows hints of development and (G) This is a riesling of both power and firmness, but the powerful limey flavour finesse. The limey aroma and flavour is and lively acidity have a lot of appeal. very pure and the dry palate features a ($20.00) strong line of acidity. A classic example. 12.2% Screwcap ($22.00) Excellent Value Region: Clare, SA Screwcap Region: Mount Barker, WA 2009 Tertini Reserve Riesling There’s a little bottle-age character 2012 Binbilla Hilltops Riesling (G) showing as well as a suggestion of Another very pure and fine riesling with sweetness. The rich flavour and acid excellent delicate aromatics, precisely balance got the thumbs-up from the defined fruit and crisp acidity. Faultless panel. ($35.00) and delicious. ($20.00) Excellent Value 12.9% Screwcap 12.0% Screwcap Region: Southern Highlands, NSW Region: Hilltops, NSW Page 3 WINEWISE Volume 28 Number 3 August 2012 2011 Dinny Goonan Wines Single Semillon Vineyard Riesling A delicate riesling with attractive florals and just a hint of Outstanding development. The palate is long and well balanced. ($22.00) Screwcap Region: Bellarine Peninsula, Vic 2011 Zarephath Riesling The lemony richness of this wine is its strong point and the long line of acidity provides excellent balance. (Not yet released) Screwcap Region: Porongurups, WA 2011 Patrick Estate Riesling This riesling is drinking very well now. A little touch of sweetness helps fill out the palate and provide some texture. The fresh acidity does the rest. ($29.00) 11.0% Screwcap Region: Coonawarra 2011 Yarrh Riesling A hint of development detracts little from the intense lemon/lime fruit which is lifted on the finish by racy acidity. ($22.00) 11.5% Screwcap Region: Canberra District, NSW 2008 Eden Springs High Eden Riesling Varietal and well made, 2009 Gartelmann Benjamin but showing just a little too much Semillon (G) This is a classic Hunter development. ($25.00) semillon in every sense. It’s just 12.0% Screwcap beginning to emerge from its closed-up Region: Eden Valley, SA baby stage, and show the marvellous lemon grass characteristics that are so 2011 Helm Riesling Classic Dry Very regional. The palate is intense, long and clean and well made, with a steely acid acid-fresh. ($25.00) Excellent Value finish. The fruit is just a little green. 11.5% Screwcap Time in bottle will be beneficial. ($30.00) Region: Hunter Valley, NSW 11.2% Screwcap Region: Eden Valley, SA 2007 Thomas Braemore Semillon (G) The taste-off for top semillon was 2010 Silkwood Riesling A little too a very close-run affair. Andrew Thomas sweet for a top rating. Drinking well must wonder what he needs to do to win now. ($15.00) the SVA semillon trophy. He is in the 10.5% Screwcap top three most years, but hasn’t taken Region: Pemberton, WA out the big prize. His 2007 Braemore is a gem, with all the expected lemony Hunter flavour and acidity – plus a little bit of evolution. In the end, the There’s a trend towards sweetness top two wines reflected their respective in riesling, and, although we have no vintages, and the 2009 edged ahead. issue with that if the residual sugar is ($N/A) balanced by acidity, we remind entrants 10.5% Screwcap that the upper level for sugar in the Region: Hunter Valley, NSW riesling classes is 7.5 gm/litre. Next year wines showing obvious sweetness will be transferred to the sweet white class. Page 4 WINEWISE Volume 28 Number 3 August 2012 Highly Recommended 2009 Ridgeview Generations Reserve Semillon The lemon curd 2009 Coolangatta Estate Semillon characteristics on nose and palate are (G) This flavour-packed semillon has very pleasant, and the crisp acidity just entered its ideal drinking window. merges seamlessly with the generous The pure, lemony varietal fruit is flavour. Drinking well now. ($25.00) impressive and the acidity is just right. 10.8% Screwcap ($25.00) Region: Hunter Valley, NSW 11.0% Screwcap Region: Shoalhaven Coast, NSW 2012 Thomas The O.C. Semillon A very well made semillon, seemingly 2011 The Willows Vineyard Barossa “knocked” by recent bottling. The citrus/ Valley Semillon (G) Here’s a knockout lemon pith characteristics are matched young semillon which delivers superb by balanced, clean acidity. All it needs lemony aroma and flavour. The vibrant is time to settle down. ($22.00) palate is balanced by lively acidity. 11.0% Screwcap ($16.00) Excellent Value Region: Hunter Valley, NSW 10.8% Screwcap Region: Barossa Valley, SA 2006 Meerea Park Terracotta ++ Winner of the inaugural Len Semillon This is a dyed in the wool Sorbello Memorial Trophy for best semillon for the true Hunter believers. current vintage or one year old It smells of lemon grass and hay, and semillon the acidity is uncompromising and steely. There’s plenty of life left in it. 2011 Mistletoe Reserve Semillon ($30.00) (G) A beautiful regional example in 11.0% Screwcap the austere, slightly lean style. It’s Region: Hunter Valley, NSW certainly one to cellar, and it will fill out beautifully over time. ($24.00) 2010 Mount View Estate Flagship 10.8% Screwcap Semillon Shows the classic Hunter Region: Hunter Valley, NSW Valley lemon and grass aromas and flavours, but is still very closed and 2006 The Willows Vineyard Barossa steely. Needs a few years. ($45.00) Valley Semillon (G) If you’re looking 11.0% Screwcap for a semillon to drink over the next year Region: Hunter Valley, NSW or two, this is it. It’s still very fresh, but has rich and appealing lemon meringue flavour backed by perfectly balanced Recommended acidity. Delicious. ($20.00) Excellent 2007 Meerea Park Alexander Munro Value Semillon This is a fuller, softer style 12.5% Screwcap offering “sweet” lemony fruit backed by Region: Barossa Valley, SA good acidity. Drinking well. ($35.00) 11.5% Screwcap 2010 Juniper Estate Semillon (G) Region: Hunter Valley, NSW Here we have a masterly example of barrel-fermenting semillon.