The Pinnacle Newsletter of Gwent Mountaineering Club Page 1 GMC Newsletter 35 Autumn 2013 Fostering mountaineering Chairman’s Remarks (Peter Salenieks) In South East Wales for over 35 years Welcome to the 35th Newsletter, which opens with an article by Bob Thomas detailing his andInside Dave this Bingham’s issue: out- ing across the Cullin Ridge Chairman’s Remarks 1 Peter Salenieks The Cullin Ridge 2-5 Bob Thomas A Recipe for Yorkshire 5 Delight Jen Price GMC Scrambling 6 Training Day Kay Beechey Mountaineering with a twist proved to be one Gaping Gill of our most popular themes this year. Jen Price The Unsuspecting 7-9 describes just such a weekend meet in which Malcolm Slesser describes The Cullin on the Buddy members combined walks and a classic rock Isle of Skye as “the most challenging moun- Trevor Flint climb with a descent of over three hundred feet tains in Scotland, with airy crests, girt with into Gaping Gill. precipices, and with only a few walking The Apennine Moun- 10 Camaraderie is an essential ingredient and a routes to their tops.” He highlights the need tains Italy fancy dress “murder mystery” was amongst the for surefootedness and a head for heights in Roger Millet social highlights during three full days of out- The Munros. Both qualities are amply demon- door activities in the Lake District. strated by Dave Bingham and Bob Thomas in Zeitgeist 11 We were successful in our application for grant Bob’s account of their traverse – a fine moun- Ken McBride aid awarded by the British Mountaineering taineering accomplishment. Council. This enabled us to provide a scram- Mountaineering in Europe was very much to Four Days in Summer 12- bling and rock climbing training weekend, as the fore this summer. Ken McBride captures John Balmforth , Jan 13 recounted by Kay Beechey the spirit of the times against the backdrop of Hall and Peter Sale- The Club offers a forum for people with com- an ascent of Montagne Sainte-Victoire via Le nieks mon interests and a shared love of the hills that Grand Parcours, a classic seventeen pitch Have you seen this and flows through the programme and beyond like a climb just East of Aix en Provence, whilst golden braid. The story of Four Days in Sum- Roger Millett’s summer walks in the Italian want details of the club? mer by John Balmforth, Jan Hall and I illus- mountains contrast with winter climbs re- If so Phone 07933 trates this fusion nicely with an account of how counted in an earlier edition of The Pinnacle 456604 or visit our web- Club meets in the Black Mountains and Radnor (April in the Appenninio, Newsletter 27). site: Forest were linked via a camping trip, which Trevor Flint describes a special birthday gwentmountaineering- was advertised to members, to explore several celebration club.org.uk of the Nuttalls in North Wales. Read on to find out more... Copyright © 2013 by Gwent Mountaineering Club and the contributors. All rights reserved Page 2 GMC Newsletter Number 35 The Cullin Ridge (Bob Thomas) one of the parties, whose outlines we had seen on the crest of the ridge earlier in the morning, already there, perched on the edge preparing their ropes. We notice the fell shoes of one of the party, same tread as we had seen on the ap- proach. We had caught them up, a result of Dave’s research, and knowledge of the ridge from his previous Skye trips. Also we’re moving as a pair whilst this party is made up of four. After some friendly banter, it’s time to get on with the climbing, the other group having admitted that they are moving slower, kindly let us go first. Dave and I abseil into the Gap, establish a belay around a prominent spike at the foot of the climb and then one at a time Dave Bingham on the Cullin to the guide, pick our line and then head scale the gap. It’s slightly wet and off. greasy; the climb is being made harder The route finding around the base of by the packs and boots and feels harder It’s five thirty in the morning and we’ve Caisteal a’ Garbh Coire is relatively than the VD grade given in the guide just set off from Glenbrittle on the ap- straight forward and we meet another book. We wait at the other side of the proach to the ridge. It’s just the right party on a day’s scrambling, moving gap, until the first climber from the weather: overcast and cool no wind to north to south in the opposite direction other group makes it safely to the top, speak. The absence of clouds on the hori- to us. The detour to and from Sgurr and then pack the rope away and start zon suggests that it’s going to be a decent Dubh Mor involves some tricky route heading for Sgurr Alasdair and then day, chiming with last night’s weather finding, but thankfully the dry rock and making for Sgurr Mhic Choinnich. Af- forecast. good weather means that we can identify ter some more back climbing and scram- Dave and I set off at a steady pace remem- a good line and were soon back on track bling we pause for arrest and prepare the bering that this is a marathon and not a heading north to the TD Gap: the first ropes and gear in preparation for the sprint, and with 3000ft or so of ascent section of climbing. Although still not next climb. until we gain the ridge proper we need to roped up, we wear helmets, as rock fall It’s early afternoon and we’ve just fin- conserve our strength. The traverse is a real threat. The ridge begins to nar- ished another roped section at King’s around the foot of the Sron na Ciche to the row as we approach the gap, and when Chimney, and are on our way to the crossing on Allt Coire nan Laogh takes us we eventually reach the obstacle we find Inaccessible Pinnacle, but not before just over an hour. We take the opportu- nity for a final drink and top up and then start the slog up to the start at Gars-bhein. As we begin our ascent we notice the sil- houettes of least two other parties on the skyline, already on the traverse. We recall the footprints on the path, and the distinc- tive pattern of fell shoe tread, probably left by these parties. We’re at the top after fifty minutes, and it feels good. We’re smack on the Rock Fax Guide book time for a fast ascent, and it might be that we’re on course for a day crossing. One more gulp of water, a quick look at the guide book, and we’re off on the first three kilometre stretch, which will take us to the Thearlich Dubh Gap. Dave sets the pace, not too quick but fast enough that we make rapid progress to Sgurr na Eag. We arrive at the summit; it’s been easy to here, but now the route finding starts. Once again we briefly refer Bob Bivvi-ing on the ridge Page 3 GMC Newsletter Number 35 and then around the Wart, before mak- ing a scary back climb, slippery rock forcing us to use the rope to lower one another safely, something we wouldn’t have had to do in dry conditions. We arrive at An Dorus, the small col at the foot of Sgurr Mhadaidh. Light is failing and the conditions are worsening. We make the decision to bivvi here. It’s eight thirty in the evening, but with no chance of completing a crossing in day- light we agree that this is the safest op- tion. Sadly the bivvi site - a well manicured section of gravel, with a small stone wall – is positioned smack in the middle of the col. The wind has picked up and is passing over small snow fields on the north western slope. It’s cold, so we opt to head down on the path on the south- ern side of the ridge out of the wind. Descent from Sgurr Mhic now four thirty in the afternoon, we’ve Dave and I prepare the site and do our Choinnich been moving well and are on schedule best to level out a stretch of path, care- for a one day crossing, the only problem fully removing the rocks and placing (Continued from page 2) is that the cloud is starting to build, visi- them above us to act as an additional we’ve negotiated An Stac, the longest bility is deteriorating rapidly and with buffer against the elements. Once we’re section of scrambling on the ridge. After that the ability to route find effectively. happy we take out our sleeping bags, checking the route from the foot of the Our progress along the ridge becomes stove and food and settle down for the scramble, Dave and I make the decision to slower, it’s amazing to see the contrast. night. We take turns to brave the chilly solo up the eastern side of the rocky pillar. Conditions underfoot are significantly blast in the col to gather snow to melt Just before we start our scramble I bump more difficult, and sections of the rock for drinks and food. Having eaten our into a friend, Neil, who’s guiding another have taken on glass-like properties. The food we bed down for the night.