glossary commonGive your vocab a boost terms with this must-know list of sewing lingo ARMSCYE—Armhole (sewing term). CENTER baCK—(CB) the vertical center the raised position, they “feed” the AWL—A pointed instrument used for line on the back of a garment. fabric. You can also drop the feed piercing small holes in leather, wood, etc. CENTER FRONT—(CF) the vertical center dogs so you can move the fabric manu- BACKSTITCH—A strong stitch that doubles line on the front of a garment. ally in any direction. back on the last stitch. There are a variety CHARMEUSE—A soft, lightweight drap- FELL STITCH—Hand stitches worked of backstitch styles. able fabric of silk or synthetic fibers, from the right side to pull a seam BASTE—Temporary long running stitches having a semilustrous satin face and a together invisibly. Stitches travel in the created by hand or machine to hold fabric crepe-like back. fold of the fabric. in place before the final stitching. CLEAN FINISH—The term used to describe FLAT-FELLED SEAM—A machine-sewn BEESWAX—A wax made by bees used a finished raw edge. seam where all raw edges are encased to smooth and strengthen thread for DaRT—Folded and stitched wedges by fabric and sewn flat. hand sewing. of fabric that shape a garment over FRENCH DARTS—Front darts starting BIAS—True bias is a cut made on an curves. The dart point is marked by a from near or at the side seam waistline angle 45 degrees to the selvage. This dot. Dart legs are the lines that start at and ending near the bust point. direction allows for the most stretch. the point and stop at the seam. FRENCH SEAM—A self-enclosed seam Bias refers to any line diagonal to the DOUBLE-FACED—A material with two stitched from the right side, then from crosswise and lengthwise grains. Most “right” sides. the wrong side. bias pattern pieces are laid on the D-RING—A D-shaped, usually metal, ring GORE—Vertical garment sections, usually true bias; the grainline arrow and the of various sizes used in a closure, as a on a skirt or dress. pattern’s layout instructions help you means of securing straps or objects, or as GRADING—The process of converting a align pattern pieces. a decoration. pattern from one size to another. BIAS BINDING—Sometimes called bias EaSE—1.n. Difference between body GRAINLINE—Long arrow symbol printed tape, a bias cut strip used to bind or cover measurements and garment measure- on a pattern that corresponds to the edges. Slightly stretchy, it sews neatly ments. Also defined as the amount of lengthwise grain of the fabric. around curves. space in a garment that allows com- GUSSET—A small, triangular piece of BINDING—Strip of fabric used to cover or fortable movement. 2.v. Gathering material inserted into a garment to enclose raw edges. stitches to fit a longer piece of fabric improve the fit or for reinforcement. BOX PLEAT—Two pleats that face each to a shorter piece of fabric. HaND-TACK—Sewing a stitch two or other on one side and away from each EDGE STITCH—Straight stitching sewn three times by hand in the same place other on the opposite side. very close to the edge of a seam, trim, to hold a seam or trim in place. BROCADE—Fabric woven with an elabo- or outer edge. Prevents edges from HEM ALLOWANCE—the distance be- rate design or raised overall pattern. stretching or rolling, and supports tween the cutting line and the hemline. BUMP CLOTH—Thicker than usual under- the fabric. Also called the hem depth. lining, often used for silk drapery panels. FaCING—Used to finish exposed edges HEM baND—A band inserted into a CaSING—A folded and stitched “tunnel” as a partial lining found on center hem for stability. that holds elastic, cording, or boning. front, neckline, or armhole edges. HOOK AND EYE—A two-piece clothes CaTCHSTITCH—A cross-shaped hem FEED DOG(S)—Located beneath the fastener, usually made of metal, con- stitch used to join an edge to the inside presser foot, these “teeth” move the sisting of a hook that catches onto a of a garment. fabric under the presser foot. In loop or bar. 88 craftstylish ◾ CraftStylish.com HORSEHAIR BRAID—A bias-woven net fabric that is folded over a cord and STabILIZER—An underlayer used to sup- strip of nylon threads, often used to then inserted as a decorative trim into port a fabric for machine embroidery. support a hem. It stretches and takes the seam between the edge and facing STAYSTITCH—Machine stitches along curves easily. of a garment. a seamline that keep the fabric from INSEAM—The vertical seam inside the POLYMER CLAY—A heat hardening stretching when the seam is sewn. leg on pants. polymer compound used for veneer, STRAIGHT SKIRT—A skirt with seams INTERFACING—Sew-in or fusible fabric jewelry, or small sculpture. perpendicular to the floor and hemline used to stabilize fashion fabrics. Can POINT PRESSER—A small tool used to parallel to the floor. also add body, reinforce, or shape get inside a tight corner or small space TOPSTITCH—A decorative row of stitch- a garment. for ease of pressing. es sewn on the right side of a garment. INVISIBLE STITCH—Made 1/16-inch or QUILT—1.n. Coverlet or wall hanging TUCK—A stitched pleat of any width. 1/8-inch apart through the fold of a turn- made from small pieces of fabric sewn UNDERLINING—A layer of lightweight under allowance. This technique hides together in batted layers and topstitched. fabric sewn into a garment to reinforce the stitch in the fold along the edge. 2.v. The action of topstitching the quilt seams, add weight or firmness, and JEWELRY FINDINGS—Materials used layers together. provide a layer for inner stitching. in jewelry making such as headpins, RATTAIL—A silk tubular braid used for VENT—An opening serving as an outlet clasps, bails, etc. trimming or as a cord. for air, and, in a garment, to allow for LOOP BUTTONHOLE—A buttonhole RAW EDGE—The unfinished cut edge movement. closure made of corded loops. of fabric. WaISTbaND—A band of material encir- MaCHINE baSTE—A very long ROTARY CUTTER— A round cutting cling and fitting the waist of a garment, machine stitch. blade with a handle. such as trousers or a skirt. MaCHINE TENSION—Controlled by RUNNING STITCH—An even hand stitch WaRP—Lengthwise thread in woven disks to apply drag to the machine in which the stitches weave in and fabric that runs parallel to selvage. thread. Adjust it for thread and out in a dashed line. WEbbING—A strong, woven material fabric variances. SEAM ALLOWANCE—(S.A.) The distance of hemp, cotton, or jute in bands of MÖBIUS—A one-sided strip with a between the cutting line and the seam various widths used for belts, carrying nonorientable surface made by taking a line. This allowance is usually hidden straps, etc. single strip and twisting one end, then inside the garment when sewn. WEFT—The crosswise threads in a attaching the two ends. SELVAGE—The tightly woven factory woven fabric, traveling from selvage MUSLIN—1. Unbleached cotton fabric. edge of fabric that runs parallel to the to selvage. 2. A term used by designers to describe lengthwise grain. WHIPSTITCH—To sew by hand with a test garment that checks fit and style. SERGE—To sew an edge or seam with overcast stitches; used to finish a NaPPED FabRIC—A fabric with a fuzzy a serger. A serger (which is also fabric edge or to bind two pieces of texture, such as velvet, that runs in a known as an overlock machine) fabric together. specific direction. creates an overlock stitch that wraps WOOL BOUCLÉ—Woolen yarn with NOTCHES—Found on the cutting lines over the edge of the cloth. The loops producing a rough appearance on of patterns, these diamond- or triangle- machine trims the edge right before woven or knitted fabrics. it sews it. shaped marks indicate the points WRONG SIDE—(WS) Typically, the where seams should meet. SHOULDER POINT—The point on the inside of a garment or the backside ON-GRAIN—The line parallel to the shoulder seam where the arm and of fabric. shoulder connect. selvage on fabric. The same as grain, ZIGZAG STITCH—A stitch that has width straight-of-grain, or warp threads. SLEEVE CAP— The section of the sleeve and length and looks like connected Zs. ORGANZA—A sheer polyester, nylon, or above the biceps line. silk fabric constructed in a plain weave SLIP STITCH— Used to join two folded and with a crisp finish. edges or one folded edge to a flat sur- GO TO THE WEB PICKSTITCH—A variation on the back- face, for an almost invisible stitch. Visit BeSewStylish.com stitch where you backtrack only slightly SQUARE KNOT—A knot that forms a for more terms and a and only a bead of thread is visible on square. It’s commonly used in macramé. printer-friendly version of these pages. >>> the right side of the garment. STITCH IN THE DITCH—Stitching inside PIPING—A narrow piece of bias-cut the “valley” or “groove” of a seam. SPRING 2008 89.