RUFFLE SLEEVE TOP ISSUE 37 SKILL LEVEL In the Folds patterns are designed to inspire and encourage modern makers to create garments that are beautiful both inside ABOUT CONTENTS and out. Through selected techniques and construction details, IN THE In the Folds aims to encourage thought-provoking and ABOUT IN THE FOLDS 3 memorable making experiences - helping you enjoy each stitch in PATTERNS FOLDS the process. PATTERNS GARMENT OVERVIEW 4 Techniques may differ slightly to the home sewing methods you (INCLUDING FABRIC SUGGESTIONS AND NOTIONS) are used to, but in some cases industrial finishes will give you the cleanest and most professional finish. SIZING + GARMENT 5 MEASUREMENTS Seam allowances are marked on each pattern piece and detailed (INCLUDING FABRIC REQUIREMENTS) in each step. You will notice that in some cases the seam allowances meet each PRINTING THE PATTERN 6 other at different angles at the end of the seam. This is so that PRINTING PLAN 7 when you press the seam allowances open the seams will sit flush with the edges and will help you get a really clean finish. CUTTING YOUR FABRIC 8 In the Folds patterns are designed to include thoughtful Consider using fabric SUGGESTED CUTTING PLAN 9 details and interesting techniques so that you can enjoy the from your stash before process of making the garment as much as the end result. going to buy something INSTRUCTIONS 10 new. I dare you. If we slow down and take in every stitch, we can better You might be surprised GLOSSARY 21 our skills, appreciate the amazing things we can do with by what you find there. our hands, understand the process more fully and create SLOW SEWING SLOW Before selecting your REFLECTION 22 garments that will be worn, loved and cared for long into fabric, really think about the future. THE ENVIRONMENT THE how this garment will fit We'd love to see your work in progress. Find us on into your wardrobe and Instagram @inthefolds and @peppermintmagazine and tag how you plan to care for your photos with #peppermintsewingschool it. Choose a fabric that fits the bill. Happy sewing! We’re super excited to bring you these patterns in partnership with the lovely people at The Fabric Store. With a passion for all things sewing, they stock an incredible range of fabrics – think quality linen, silk, cotton, merino and even leather – at their Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and New Zealand stores, as well as a small selection online. 2 3 GARMENT OVERVIEW SIZING + GARMENT MEASUREMENTS NOTES ON FITTING When making The Ruffle Sleeve Top, use your high bust measurement to select your size and then your to work out whether or not you need to do a bust measurement HIGH BUST Small Bust Adjustment (SBA) or Full Bust Adjustment (FBA). This pattern is drafted for BUST a B cup bust. WAIST The pattern is nested so that you can grade between sizes if necessary. Simply print HIP the sizes you need and draw a diagonal line between the sizes to grade between them. The pattern is drafted for height of 170cm (5'7"), with the hem finishing close to the high hip (approximately in the position where mid-rise jeans would sit). If you prefer your shirts to hit lower on the hip, use the 'lengthen / shorten' lines on the pattern to lengthen the top. The Ruffle Sleeve Top is a simple The Ruffle Sleeve Top is compatible with a woven shirt with a v-neck, bust range of different fabrics. Consider using light to REQUIRED MEASUREMENTS BODY MEASUREMENTS darts, elbow length sleeve with mid-weight fabrics such as: linen, linen blends, A B C D E F G H I J 71cm 76cm 81cm 86cm 91cm 96cm 103.5cm 111cm 118.5cm 126cm ruffle and a neck facing. It has a cotton, gauze or chambray. For a softer silhouette, HIGH BUST 28" 30" 32" 34" 36" 38" 41" 431/2" 461/2" 491/2" boxy fit and is the perfect piece to consider sateen, silk or viscose (rayon). Be careful 76cm 81cm 86cm 91cm 96cm 101cm 108.5cm 116cm 123.5cm 131cm FULL BUST 30" 32" 34" 36" 38" 40" 43" 451/2" 481/2" 511/2" take you from day to evening. if you are a beginner though, as these fabrics are a 61cm 66cm 71cm 76cm 81cm 86cm 93.5cm 101cm 108.5cm 116cm WAIST little trickier to sew. 24" 26" 28" 30" 32" 34" 37" 391/2" 421/2" 451/2" It slips over the head and therefore 84cm 89cm 94cm 99cm 104cm 109cm 116.5cm 124cm 131.5cm 139cm HIP 33" 35" 37" 39" 41" 43" 46" 49" 511/2" 541/2" does not have a closure. Softer fabrics will drape over the bust, while GARMENT DETAILS GARMENT FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS stiffer fabrics will create a more voluminous and The instructions guide you through A B C D E F G H I J FABRIC SUGGESTIONS FABRIC 90cm 95cm 100cm 105cm 110cm 115cm 122.5cm 130cm 137.5cm 145cm structured silhouette. If using a sheer fabric, BUST making the top with french seams 35⅜" 37⅜" 39⅜" 41⅜" 43¼" 45¼" 48¼" 51⅛" 54⅛" 57⅛" consider binding the neckline rather than using 100cm 105cm 110cm 115cm 120cm 125cm 132.5cm 140cm 147.5cm 155cm for a clean and professional finish. WAIST 39⅜" 41⅜" 43⅜" 451/4" 471/4" 491/4" 52⅛" 55⅛" 58⅛" 61⅛" the facing. 100cm 111cm 116cm 121cm 126cm 131cm 138.5cm 146cm 153.5cm 161cm HIP 39⅜" 43¾" 45¾" 47⅝" 49⅝" 51⅝" 54½" 57½" 60½" 63½" 51.8cm 52.4cm 53cm 53.6cm 54.2cm 54.8cm 55.6cm 56.4cm 57.2cm 58cm LENGTH* 20⅜" 20⅝" 20⅞" 21⅛" 21⅜" 21⅝" 21⅞" 22¼" 22½" 22⅞" *Measurement from back neck to hem FABRIC REQUIREMENTS • Coordinating thread A B C D E F G H I J 115cm 2.2m 2.2m 2.3m 2.4m 2.4m 2.5m 2.5m 2.6m 2.7m 2.7m 45" 2.4yds 2.4yds 2.5yds 2.6yds 2.6yds 2.7yds 2.7yds 2.9yds 3yds 3yds 150cm 1.5m 1.5m 1.5m 1.5m 1.5m 1.5m 2.2m 2.2m 2.3m 2.3m 60" 1.7yds 1.7yds 1.7yds 1.7yds 1.7yds 1.7yds 2.4yds 2.4yds 2.55yds 2.5yds NOTIONS 4 5 PRINTING THE PATTERN PRINTING PLAN PAPER SIZE TEST SQUARE 1B 1A 1B 1A 1C 1D 1E This pattern can be printed on both A4 or US letter-sized paper. 1C 1D 1E 1 inch x 1 inch in collaboration with PRINT 5cm x 5cm There is also a full sized version included so that, if you’d prefer, RUFFLE SLEEVE TOP SEWING PATTERN FEEL FREE TO HACK THIS PATTERN, ADD TO THIS PATTERN, LOVE THIS PATTERN AND TO MAKE IT OVER & OVER BUT PLEASE REMEMBER THAT IT’S FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY HAPPY SEWING! you can get it printed on full sheets (2 x A0) at your local copy shop. When you have the scaling C Emily Hundt PATTERN SIZE KEY SIZE A SIZE B SIZE C SIZE D SIZE E right, print the remainder of SIZE F SIZE G LAYERS SIZE H SIZE I 1SIZE J 2 3 4 5 6 the pattern. Depending on the 2A in collaboration with 2B 2C 2D 2E 2F 2A 2B 2C 2D 2E 2F We’re super excited to bring you these patterns in partnership with the lovely people at The Fabric Store. With a passion for all things sewing, they stock an CENTRE FRONT PLACE ON FOLD CENTRE BACK PLACE ON FOLD incredible range of fabrics – think quality linen, silk, cotton, merino and even leather – at their Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and New Zealand stores, as well as a small selection online. 3A 3C This pattern has embedded layers. This means that you can select GRAINLINE RUFFLE SLEEVE TOP 3A 3C 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 size/s you need, you may not GRAINLINE 1 BACK 3D 3B PATTERN SYMBOL KEY 3D CUT 1 ON FOLD 3B only the size/s you would like to print. NOTCH need to print all the pages. DOUBLE NOTCH DRILL HOLE BUTTON HOLE CUT 1 ON FOLD FOLD FOLD FOLD FOLD FOLD FOLD FOLD FOLD FOLD ON ON ON ON ON ON ON ON ON ON 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 CUT CUT CUT CUT CUT CUT CUT CUT CUT CUT CUTTING LINE FRONT FRONT FRONT FRONT FRONT FRONT FRONT FRONT FRONT STITCH LINE FRONT Layers make it much less confusing to cut out the pattern, and also There is a printing plan on GRAINLINE 2 RUFFLE SLEEVE TOP TOP TOP TOP TOP TOP TOP TOP TOP SLEEVE SLEEVE SLEEVE SLEEVE SLEEVE SLEEVE SLEEVE SLEEVE SLEEVE RUFFLE RUFFLE RUFFLE RUFFLE RUFFLE RUFFLE RUFFLE RUFFLE RUFFLE PLACE PATTERN ON FOLD TOP SLEEVE RUFFLE LENGTHEN / SHORTEN LINE PLEASE NOTE: SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED AND ARE 1.2cm (½ ”) UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED in collaboration with with with with with with with with with collaboration collaboration collaboration collaboration collaboration collaboration collaboration collaboration collaboration in in in in in in in in in saves on ink (and paper in some cases). p. 7. with collaboration in SHARE YOUR MAKES #peppermintsewandtell7 8 9 10 11 12 Tag us @inthefolds Open the pattern in Adobe Reader and click on the @peppermintmagazine When printing 4A 4B 4C 4D 4E 4F 4B 4C 4D 4E 4F Please note: 4A ‘layers’ option on the left hand side. There will be 5A 5C from Adobe Reader, make sure 5A 5C 5D 5B 5D an eye next to each layer in the pattern.