THE BEACH NOURISHMENT OF BREDENE - DE HAAN AND ITS IMPACT ON THE BEACH MORPHOLOGY AND THE COAST AL EVOLUTION OF THE BELGIAN COAST EAST OF ÜSTEND. Guy DE MOOR Laboratory for Physical Geography, University Gent Krijgslaan 281, B- 9000, Gent (Belgium) . Abstract - Since more than 30 years the sandy rectilinear, WSW-EI\TE runnig belgian coast between Bredene and De Haan with its ridge and runnel beach and which is only parti y defended by groins, is attacked by beach erosion over a distance of several kilometer. The erosional wave gradually extends from the west to the east, in the same directwn as the residual tidal currcnt. In 1976, the erosion p · 1 k was situated at Bredene-Vosseslag where the mean annual retreat of the dune foot reached 4-5m . Since 1980, the erosion advanced to the east, attacking the beach at De Haan. Recently, residual beach erosion and dune face retreat progressed even more to the east over a distance of about 2 kilometer. Meanwhile erosion slackened at the western edge of the erosional section . In 1978 and 1980, important beach nourishments with Longard armouring were put on the beaches between Bredene and De Haan. Moreover since 1980 spring beach bulldozering bas been carried out al De Haan itself over a length of about 800m in order to install a practible high beach for tourist activities at the De Haan waterfront itself. The beach nourishment has been accompagnied by an extensive high beach fencing for fixation of the long shore net eolian sand transport, directed to the east in direction of the prevailing winds . The behaviour of the beach bas been monitored using a 20 year lasting visual inspection and a 12 year lasting detailed sequential half monthly beach profiling . The absolute unit volume of the beach between the dune front convexity and the neap low water line has been used as a basic parameter . The absolute unit volume difference in relation to the volume at a fixed date and the relative volume unit which is related to a mean value over an initial period of one yaer provide the final data output. The ensuing volumetric time series form an objective registration of the residual beach evolution and a valuable base form statistical treatment of the data. Key-words - North Sea Coast, Beach erosion, Beach nourishment , Coastal defense, Coastal evolution, Coastal megaprotuberances, Coastal monitoring . Résumé - Depuis près de 30 ans, la côte belge entre Bredene et De Haan est atteinte par l'érosion sur une distance de plusieurs kilomètres . L'estran y est sableux, de type à rides et sillons prelittoraux, rectiligne, orienté de l'WSW à l'ENE et partiellement pourvu d'épis . Graduellement, la vague érosive s'y déplace d'ouest en est, direction correspondant à celle du courant de marée résiduel. En 1976, le maximum d'érosion se situait à Bredene-Vosseslag . Depuis 1980, l'érosion est devenue particulièrement active à De Haan situé plus à l'est. Plus récemment encore, l'érosion s'est particulièrement intensifiée sur deux kilomètres à l'est de De Haan . Entretemps, l'activité érosive diminuait à la limite occidentale de la section érosive. En 1978 et 1980, d ' importants réhaussements avec armature Longard ont été effectués sur les plages à l'ouest de De Haan . En plus, à De Haan et à partir de 1980, chaque printemps, des sables ont été poussés vers le haut de plage afin d'en faire un espace continuellement accessible aux touristes ; des fascines ont été posées à l'ouest de De Haan, azfin de capter le transit éolien résiduel vers! 'est, direction des vents dominants. La côte fait l'objet d'un suivi ; suivi visuel sur une vingtaine d'années, suivi topographiques par profils séquentiels sur une douzaine d'années. On a utilisé le volume unitaire de la plage entre la convexité majeure du front dunaire et la laisse des basses mers de mortes-eaux comme paramètre de base. La différence de volume unitiare calculé par rapport à une valeur initiale et le volume unitaire relatif, établi par rapport à un volume de référence correspondant au volume moyen pour une période initiale d'une année fournissent les paramètres finaux. Ces valeurs forment une série numérique, enregistrement objectif et qualitatif del 'évolution littorale et base pour une analyse statistique. Une attention particulière a été accordée aux effets del 'interruption et de la stabilisation du transit éolien longitudinal sur la haute plage . Son rôle dans l'intensification de l'érosion vers l'est est , malgré un certain impact positif mais local, mis en évidence. Le rôle éventuel d'autres phénomènes, corne les mégaprotubérances, les tempêtes et l'impact de certains types d'intervention de défense côtière et de gestion du littoral ont également été prises en considération. Mots-clés - Mer du Nord, érosion côtière, rechargement de plage, évolution du littoral, suivi du littoral, mégaprotubérances côtières, défense côtière. 135 1. COASTAL MORPHOLOGY The Belgian coast is 65 km long and fonns a part of the Southern North Sea coast between Calais and the Dutch Rhine-Meuse -Scheldt delta (fig . 1). It runs from the SW to the NE and comprises a megatidal, linear and sandy beach of runnel and ridge type. It stretches out at the foot of a dune belt reaching elevations of 15 up to 25 m and consisting partly of coast-transversal parabolic dunes whose seaward arms merge with a linear seafront dune ridge . At low tide the beach width reache s a 500 m in the western part. To the east the width decrea ses while the beach becomes a little steeper. In summer time an eolian sand accumulation develops on the high beach along the dune foot. It forms a sand buff er against dune retreat due to scarping during winter storms. :..~KPSl Zeebrugge ~ ..~ ,:;,.,----- ô\)\~c KP42 ,.> ~c~ ~ Illankenberge KP40 Vlissegem KP37 De Haan / Vosseslag ~ Oostende \\ 'ave st a tion EE, 0 15Km Beach profile - 12 · Nieuwpoort Oostduinkerke figur e 1 - Th e Belgian coa st with offshore sand banks Fresh water seepage from the dune foot is only important in some eroded zones especially during winter storm scarping . Seepage on the beach hampers eolian transport, provokes low tide sheet erosion and helps to invigorate wave action at high tide. Hence it presents locally a possible factor for a beach and dune erosion that lowers the groundwater table in the dunes. decreasing the outflow and stimulating cyclic new eolian supply. More than 70 % of that coastline shows soft or hard def ence structures, mostly longitudinal dikes, groynes and beach nourishments. Sorne of the longitudinal structures have initially been built for touristic purposes. The coast is breached by a few harbour approach channels. At Zeebrugge two breakwaters protrude up to 3 km off shore since 1980 . Both these structures interrupt the longshore sediment transport causing local erosion or accretion . There are no ri vers of any importance debouching along the Belgian coast. To the east the coastline slightly curves toward the entrance of the Scheldt estuary which is more tidal than river dominated. Most coastal sediments are reworked f rom the sea floor where they originally were deposited by fluvio-periglacial activity during the low upper 136 pleistocene sea level stands and bef ore the holocen marine transgression. That beach and dune belt is backed by a flat and low area of reclaimed intertidal flats of Dunkerquian age (polders mostly reclaimed during the 9- l0th and the l '.?.-13th century). Initially it corresponded to an island barrier eut by tidal inlets which have been closed mostl y for reclamation purposes . The foreshore zone very gradually deepens in a seawa rd direction . The MLLW­ isobath of -5 m is situated at several kilometer off the low water line. More off shore the coast is preceded by large off shore sand banks, the most in shore ones running parallel to the coastline. Those situated at larger distance off shore (20 km) are more or les s oblique to the coast. 2. HYDRODYNAMICS AND WIND ACTION. The mean tidal range is about 4.2 m, slightly decreasing to the east. Spring tidal range is more important than neap tide range . At spring tide peri ods the high water mark stands distinctly higher and more duneward , and the low water mark more seaward. Tidal currents are bidiurnal and continuously changing their orientation and velocity. In the fore shore area flood peaks reach velocities of 2 to 3 kts and are ENE oriented. Eb peaks reach velocities of 1 to 2 kts and are more or less WSW directed . Elongated and asymmetric current ellipses suggest a net longshore water displacement to the east and a residual, flood dominated displacement of sand to the east. This is confirmed by the development of sand accumulations at the west side of the Zeebrugge breakwater , of silt deposition at its eastern side, by eastward spit development in the approach channels (Blankenberge) and by beach erosion at their eastern side, as well as by the eastward shift of beach ridges, beach pads and ridge-transversal channels. Strong runnel currents accompagnied by rip activity can develop. Longshore wave induced drift currents develop during periods of longshore winds or obliquely incoming waves, possibly in opposite directions. Wave action depends on wind force and on wind direction . The fetch from northerly directions is more important than that f rom any other one . The most severe storms blow from the NW ; the most frequent ones from SSW to W. Eolian sand transportation on the beach is mainly conditioned by wind force, wind direction and beach humidity: prevailing winds and highest storm wind frequencies are f rom the SSW to W.