RELAXATION Despite frigid temperatures, onsen are hot in Japan. in the sixth century and the religion’s em- phasis on purity, onsen bathing became increasingly popular. During Japan’s Edo Period (1603–1867), hard-toiling farmers would partake in toji (onsen therapy) to Spahhhhhh soothe their aching limbs and help their in- Japan’s traditional HOT have given Mother Nature a hand by drill- juries heal. SPRINGS are tonic water ing down hundreds of yards into the earth Now, toji is used by stressed-out Japanese for the body and soul. to tap the hot waters. workers to rejuvenate. People see onsen not For visitors to Japan, it’s easy to overlook so much as a part of their everyday lives but the fact that the country is mostly moun- as a means of escape from them. tainous and to instead become mesmerized “Now, many people visit onsen to relax naked toward the steaming waters of by the shimmering lights of places like To- and take advantage of the healing benefi ts Houheikyo onsen. Within seconds, I am relax- kyo’s Shibuya district. But this produces a that they offer, and they enjoy it, not just ing in the hot spring’s 102-degree water, and I blinkered vision of the modern Japan. Out- heal and recover,” says Hirokazu Nunoyama, quickly forget about being outside in freezing side the cities is where you’ll fi nd the old Ja- secretary-general of the Japanese Spa weather. Physically, I am in Shikotsu-Toya pan — and this is onsen country. Association. National Park in the hills above Sapporo, Ja- Span, on the island of Hokkaido; mentally, I - , . am in a world far, far away. This is what an Matsuyama on the island of Shikoku, is where Some, like Dogo, are housed in buildings outdoor onsen is all about. it all began. In a story I would like to believe, hundreds of years old. Others are outside Onsen are as quintessentially Japanese the gods of Earth (Okuninushi-no-Mikoto) and/or part of upscale resorts. Expect to pay as sushi and ramen noodles, but unlike them and medicine (Sukunahikona-no-Mikoto) up to $20 for the bathing experience itself, can be truly appreciated only in the Land of bathed here 3,000 years ago. Sukunahikona, and considerably more if you’re staying over- the Rising Sun. It is a pity, then, that so few who was at death’s door, was cured after the night at a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn). foreigners take the time to partake in this experience. Another origin legend tells of an “Good onsen should have really hot wa- Japanese obsession, which acts as a portal injured heron that was healed in Dogo onsen’s ter that doesn’t smell like chlorine, and in to the old Japan. waters. That story is likely to be closer to the my opinion, should be off the beaten path There are more than 3,000 hot springs, or truth but is not nearly as colorful. or should have historical or cultural signifi - onsen, in Japan. Traditionally, onsen were The reputed healing properties of the wa- cance,” says Ray Bartlett of OnsenJapan.net. natural pools full of geothermally heated ters eventually became part of Shinto puri- Japanese often choose an onsen based on water. These days, though, some onsen fying rituals. With the arrival of Buddhism the type of water. • CONTINUED ON PAGE 47 ORGANIZATION TOURISM NATIONAL JAPAN COURTESY 42 MAY 15, 2012 AA.COM/AMERICANWAY 05.15 Dept_Onsen.indd 42 4/24/12 2:38 PM AAP - Pitstop - _0AEJU_AW20120515-042.pdf April 24, 2012 14:40:04 RELAXATION CONTINUED FROM PAGE 42 • Some women neuralgia, myalgia and hemorrhoids. The best I can say is that it has a distinct tend to seek out waters rich in sodium bi- Perspiration drips down my face as I taste, thick with minerals. Sake it isn’t. carbonate to help make their skin soft. The make polite conversation with a local. He Still, my onsen experience has reinvigo- muddy waters of iron-rich hot springs are swears the water helps him recover from rated me, body and soul. And I’ll drink to said to be good for anemia su erers and for fi shing injuries, and he visits regularly. In that. helping the body retain heat. There are even the changing room afterward, I discover a waters containing hydrogen sulfi de, which is fountain; devotees drink its water as an elix- MARK ANDREWS is a writer based in Asia whose work has appeared in such publications as The Sydney Morning said to be e ective for softening the skin and ir. It’s supposed to be a remedy for digestive Herald, the South China Morning Post, The Japan Times for curing acne. and liver diseases, as well as for constipation. and The Straits Times. , visit can be intimidating. But it actually becomes a relaxing experience once a few simple rules are understood … and the fear of being naked in front of strangers abates. After getting undressed, it’s time to bathe. Usually there is a line of stools and bowls in front of water faucets. You must wash your- self thoroughly with soap and water from head to toe. This is not negotiable. The big- gest onsen sin is not washing and rinsing yourself properly. Then, it’s o to the hot spring. Tradition- ally, nothing other than your body is allowed to enter the water. Swimsuits are banned, except in a few mixed-gender baths. Small but strategically placed towels can protect your modesty before entering the bath but should not be submerged. If you have a tattoo, you may be in for an unpleasant surprise. Many onsen do not al- low people with tattoos, as they are associ- ated with yakuza gangsters. Houheikyo onsen sports a rotenburo (outdoor bath), which is especially invigo- rating when the temperature plunges in Sapporo. A small wooden shelter provides me with refuge from the snow, as it piles up on the nearby rocks like a Chinese roof. One of my fellow bathers is using this natural refrigerator for his sake. The mineral-rich water contains iron, sodium bicarbonate and calcium, and it’s said to be good for Fly American to Tokyo’s Haneda Airport As of June 1, American Airlines customers can fl y direct from New York/JFK International Airport to Tokyo’s Haneda Airport on our comfortable and spacious 777 aircraft. This is in addition to American Airlines’ existing service to Japan from cornerstone markets Dallas/Fort Worth, Chicago and Los Angeles. For additional information on Japanese hot springs, go to AA.com/americanway AA.COM/AMERICANWAY MAY 15, 2012 47 05.15 Dept_Onsen.indd 47 4/24/12 2:38 PM AAP - Pitstop - _0AEJW_AW20120515-047.pdf April 24, 2012 14:40:07.