DEAR GEMüTLICHKEIT SUBSCRIBER The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe THIS ISSUE: June 27, 1997 acclamation or a show of Breaking Away hands. Most men proudly Excuse me, but I have an wear a sword or bayonet aversion to hearing English in APPENZELL passed down from their the breakfast room. It means Our report on the tiny Canton of Appenzell in Switzerland's north- forefathers. Traditional we’re not far enough off the tour- east corner, where women's sufferage didn't happen until 1990 dress for them is a black ist route. I, too, am a tourisit but hat decorated with flowers, it still grates hearing those usu- ou’re looking for a towns — by rail and/or a bright red vest, gold ally too-loud American voices. place to spend a auto. If the village happened pants, white knee socks Breakfast in a hotel in Ger- Y week or so on to be near the borders of two and an earring. In fact, they many, Austria and Switzerland your next trip. or three other countries that look a little like the San is a decorous affair and having Maybe a small, quiet village, would a plus, too. Francisco 49ers. experienced several hundred I preferably one with loads of And, naturally, you Women wear ankle- know the drill: Gut Morgen and charm that has visible don’t want it to be too length pleated skirts, tied a nod of the head to fellow connections to past centu- expensive. bodices, huge embroidered breakfasters on arrival and a ries. It would be nice if the The place you are look- lace collars and, in their ‘Wiedersehen on departure. In townspeople still observed ing for is Appenzell, the hair, the Schlappe, a black- between, conversation at table traditional customs and principal town of the tiny winged bonnet trailing a is quiet, sometimes hushed. I dress. There should be a northeastern Swiss canton of wide red ribbon. have never heard a German, selection of good restaurants the same name. It fills the Swiss or Austrian address some- and a wide choice of accom- Appenzell’s intricately bill perfectly. one across the room as we modations. painted houses, tradition- Americans often do (“Honey, can Want tradition? Well, as bound citizenry and peace- However, since you I bring you some of these lovely late at 1990, women were ful setting can lull one into don’t plan to spend all day cold cuts?). still denied the vote and thinking it is not only every day in your chosen Of course, American-style elections and other town spiritually but physically village it should be near a hotels, such as the business is still conducted far removed from the rest big city or two, have plenty Steigenberger Avance at the each year at a gathering on of the world. of recreational opportunities Frankfurt Airport, are just like the Landsgemeindeplatz in and be a place from which Not so. Zürich is a little being at the San Francisco Air- the city center. Citizens to embark on easy daytrips over an hour away by car port Hilton; a far cry from Euro- entitled to vote are required to interesting sights and and just under two hours pean hotels that maintain break- to attend. Ballots are cast by by trains which depart fast as a sedate, contemplative about once every hour. ritual. Avoiding the Summer Tourist Crush; Bregenz, at the western- And ritual is what I came most tip of Lake Constance for. I’m here because of the dif- One Dozen Less Touristy Destinations is only 40 minutes by car or ferences in culture. The idea is an hour and 40 minutes by to experience their’s; not bring Reports are already filtering back. One reader de- frequent train. St. Gallen, them mine. The Golden Arches, scribed the streets of Venice in May as so full of tourists it an interesting city itself, is Burger King, KFC and other was like getting in and out of the stadium at a Super Bowl. only 19 km (12 miles) away American chain businesses in Another tells of a line two blocks long all day to see Miche- and from there train con- Europe are an abomination. I langelo’s sculpture of David in Florence. In the heat and nections are possible to cringe when I see them — no height of the summer, that line will be longer. such places as Lindau in matter how cunningly disguised Gemütlichkeit staffer Andrew Bestor called from Germany (less than two they are to blend with the local Salzburg in early June to tell us the town is already full to hours); Konstanz (a little architecture — because I know the battlements of Hohensalzburg with tourists. Beautiful over an hour); Vaduz, with each one that goes up a Salzburg is where — we were told by a tourist official five capital of Liechtenstein little of what makes Europe years ago — over 700 tour buses each day in high season unique is eroded. (about an hour and a half) drop their loads of visitors. and Schaffhausen (less When traveling, I want to It is said to be virtually impossible to use accumulated than two hours). Trains to soak up as much of the other mileage for an airline ticket to Europe this summer. The St. Gallen from Appenzell culture as I can and that’s why airlines, you see, can sell every seat for cash. run about every 30 minutes one of the continuing themes of and the trip takes about this newsletter is getting off the Car rental companies report huge demand for cars half an hour. throughout Europe. Continued on page 2… Continued on page 6… Continued on page 3… June, 1997 wind up getting into a conversation with a few ing. It had been hoped that computers and DEAR SUBSCRIBER locals. Though we try a little German, the increased automation would improve things Continued from page 1 ultimate success of such discussions seems and perhaps they eventually will, but for now beaten track and away from tourist hordes. always to depend on their knowledge of En- we’re getting a lot of calls asking “where’s my Masses of other people doing exactly what glish. Gemütlichkeit?”. I’m doing, all speaking my language, doesn’t Stumbling onto these affairs is sheer de- One difficulty is that each address label cut it. light and has given us some of our very best must be barcoded. This is done with USPS- Some people tell me they enjoy meeting travel experiences. If we had never gotten approved software that certifies each address other Americans in Europe. They join up for away from the main tourist haunts we would and puts the proper nine-digit zip code on the drinks and for dinners and new friendships have missed them. Seeing a world renowned label. In some cases the software adjusts are made. Others tell me they like European building or painting is stimulating but seldom addresses and corrects them. At other times, hotels but every once in a while find it a relief as satisfying as an oompah band, a couple of if there is something incorrect about the to check in to a Hilton or Intercontinental with beers and finding out how much you have in address, the post office software simply American-style showers and where they can common with a table of local townspeople. doesn’t recognize it and the envelope in ques- order bacon and eggs and toast for breakfast. Such experiences are hard to come by if you tion is often delivered late or never. Please Not me. never break away from the crowd. check your Gemütlichkeit envelope label and make sure the address is correct. You may European hand-held, shower-over-the- Those who share these feelings may find wish to contact your local post office to bathtub attachments are sometimes awk- useful this month’s story on avoiding the determine your exact address. To advise us of ward but I find them a small price to pay for summer tourist crush in Europe. your correct address, or to change your ad- traditional ambience. As to bacon and eggs, Wagons, Ho! dress, please send a postcard to 2892 in the city of Hayward, California, alone, there This is the time of year we get a lot of new Chronicle Ave., Hayward CA 94542. must be several dozen restaurants where I subscribers. Welcome. Following is some can order such a meal, but nowhere can I find nitty gritty all Gemütlichkeit subscribers should • In the days the West was won, advance the fresh rolls, butter, cheeses and meats one know about: scouts traveled a few days ahead of the wagon is served in most German, Austrian and Swiss train and reported back on which was the best • We have a new email address: hotels. route, where there was good water and a [email protected]. We seldom retrieve mail good place to camp without too many hostile Too many Americans and things Ameri- from our [email protected] or native Americans. They weren't any smarter can diminish that feeling of being part of the [email protected] addresses. culture and of independent discovery. A pri- or more savvy than the people they advised, • Gemütlichkeit is mailed at the end of vate audience with the Pope is a greater they'd just been over the trail a few more each month. We write between the 15th and experience than getting just a glimpse of him times. Sometimes the scouts suggested the 25th of each month, then it's 48 hours at the from a jam-packed St.