Iowa State University Capstones, Theses and Retrospective Theses and Dissertations Dissertations 1976 The weaving of original textiles influenced by pre- Columbian Peruvian weaving Nan Emma Schroeder Iowa State University Follow this and additional works at: https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/rtd Part of the Art and Design Commons, and the Fine Arts Commons Recommended Citation Schroeder, Nan Emma, "The ew aving of original textiles influenced by pre-Columbian Peruvian weaving " (1976). Retrospective Theses and Dissertations. 7972. https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/rtd/7972 This Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Iowa State University Capstones, Theses and Dissertations at Iowa State University Digital Repository. It has been accepted for inclusion in Retrospective Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of Iowa State University Digital Repository. For more information, please contact [email protected]. The weaving of original textiles influenced by pre-Columbian Peruvian weaving by Nan Emma Schroeder A Thesis Submitted to the Graduate Faculty in Partial Fulfillment of The Requirements for the Degree of MASTER OF ARTS Department: Applied Art Major: Applied Art (Craft Design) Signatures have been redacted for privacy Iowa State University Ames, Iowa 1976 ii TABLE OF CONTENTS Page INTRODUCTION 1 REVIEW OF L !TERA TURE 3 OBSERVATIONS IN PERU 10 ORIGINAL WORK 51 SLIDE IDENTIFICATION 56 SUMMARY 60 B!BL IOGRAPHY 62 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 64 APPENDIX A: GLOSSARY 65 APPENDIX B: PERSONS INTERVIEWED 67 /.29'85/ 1 INTRODUCTION Pre-Columbian Peruvian textiles have been under study since the dis- covery of textile artifacts in the burial grounds of ancient Peru. Be- cause of the great abundance of textiles, a knowledge of weaving tech- niques was needed by the archeologists and anthropologists. Junius Bird, Lila O'Neale and Alfred Kroeber are among the prominent scholars who have investigated these textiles and have written articles and books ex- panding the body of knowledge on the subject (1, 2, 14, 15). The Peru- vian scholar, Julio C. Tello, one of the first natives to take an inter- est in artifacts, discovered the gravesites at Paracas in 1925. Grace Goodell, a student of Junius Bird and a former Peace Corps volunteer, has researched contemporary weaving to show links to the past. In her article, "The Cloth of the Quechuas", she discusses the production of high-quality textiles in the altitudes which reflect the high standards of the past (9). In contrast to the approach taken by the archeologists I am striv- ing to focus this study of Peruvian textiles from a pragmatic and a human viewpoint. As a weaver I am interested in weaving techniques, use of color and materials used in pre-Columbian Peru. The ancient textiles with which I have come in contact have provided me with increased techni- cal knowledge as well as sources of inspiration for my original work. In the course of my research I reviewed the literature concerning pre-Columbian Peruvian textiles and traveled to Peru to study both ancient and contemporary textiles. Along with the study of pre-Columbian 2 Peruvian textiles in museums I went to villages to observe the handwoven textiles being produced today. I was seeking evidence of links to the past with the creative innovations of the present. lhe first chapter is a brief survey of the history of Peruvian weav- ing meant to provide an overview of pre-Columbian Peruvian textiles in- cluding techniques used, types of yarn, dye sources and the uses of textiles produced. In the second chapter I will relate my research experiences in Peru. Beginning with the pre-Columbian textiles which I found in the museums in Lima I go on to discuss the contemporary hand- woven textiles in terms of export items and acceptance of them by the Peruvian public. The last section of this chapter concentrates on the observations of weavers and markets selling handwoven textiles made in Huancayo and the Mantaro Valley, Cuzco and Puno. The third chapter ana- lyzes the sources of inspiration for my original textiles and their rela- tion to Peruvian weaving which influenced them. lhe last chapter is a narration of the slides which relate to the research and the original work. 3 REVIEW OF LITERATURE Peruvian textiles have a rich history and evidence of their exist- ence can be established as far back as 2500 B.C. This long development of weaving up to the Spanish invasion has provided almost every textile technique that is known to us today. Textile production was a concern of the whole society. Textiles served daily functions, were used for rit- uals, as tribute and were important in the burial of the dead. Because of this importance given textiles the author wishes to include a brief history of Peruvian weaving prior to the Spanish invasion. We have more knowledge of textiles in this area than in much of the rest of the world because of the unique climatic conditions. The coastal area has virtually no rain and is almost entirely sandy so that many pre-Columbian textiles and other artifacts buried with the dead have been well-preserved in tombs dug in the sand. However, in the rainy mountain and jungle areas little has been preserved. The earliest known fabrics dating from 2500 B.C. were found at Huaca Prieta. Twining dominated suggesting a lack of any heddling device on the loom (8). It was stated that there were woven textiles as far back as 2000 B.C. (2). Although there are no looms from that time there are textiles which compare with later loom-woven ones. Ceramic and textile periods were once thought to coincide, but now it is known that they are not necessarily the same (16). The reasons for difficulty in conducting accurate research are due to the lack of a written language and the great mobility of the early peoples. Historians may never know 4 in whi.ch specific area the textiles originated. The grave robbers (huagueros) increased the problem because they have stripped the grave- sites. Textile research makes use of other information gleaned in the same graves. From drawings of costumed figures on ceramic pieces knowl- edge has been gained concerning style of garments and patterns on textiles. The difficulty in recording exact time periods in Peruvian history has led to disagreement concerning dates. While approximate dates are available most textiles are described in general time periods such as early, middle and late. Some textiles are described by the location in which they were found thus defining a definite textile style. The tex- tiles of Nazca and Paracas are examples of those found in gravesites with which scholars have been able to record a common style. Nazca and Paracas are both regional cultures which thrived in the early period, approximately 300 B.C. until 300 A.D. (2). There were numerous other local cultures throughout history which rose and diminished in impor- tance. These peoples were allowed individuality even when there were pan-Peruvian cultures which conquered vast areas of Peru. The Tiahuanaco culture spread across a large area of Peru in the late period while the last pre-Hispanic culture, the Incas, continued to conquer an even larger territory. The final defeat by the Spanish in the early 1500s brought the end to the last indigenous civilization. As was stated earlier the most ancient textiles found, which date before Nazca and Paracas, come from the dry sandy coastal areas. The finds include nets and fragments of textiles made of cotton and the bast fiber, maguey. Both white and brown cotton were grown in Peru as well 5 as maguey. '!be three were blended before the first spinning or by ply- ing. '!be natural colored fibers were used along with a blue dye and a red pigment which was painted on the woven fabric (2). Bird also noted that while pouches and fishnets were distinguishable, there was no tex- tile similar to the poncho and in fact the purpose of many of the tex- tiles is yet unknown. '!be technology of weaving is believed to have been developed to a high degree at an early time. Once a specific technique was initiated it was used in a variety of ways depending on the designs and effects de- sired. By the early Nazca period almost all techniques ever used were known. 'lbese include kelim, interlocking, and eccentric tapestry; pat- tern weaves; weft scaffolding; twining; plaiting; lace; brocade; wrapped weaving and double cloth (15). In some periods certain techniques were used more frequently than others. In the Nazca and Paracas cultures ornament was usually created with embroidery covering the major part of the textile. In other periods embroidery was limited to borders and subordinate areas. '!be Tiahuanaco culture is known for its tapestries of highland origin depicting scenes of the area. Specific techniques and particular colors are associated with each period. Peruvian weavers have apparently used color to full advantage. 'Ibey had unlimited natural sources of dyes. Using plants, animals and minerals they were able to produce a wide range of colors. 'Ibey were masters at processing the dye indigo which creates a blue color and the red dye, cochineal, which is produced from an insect living on cactus. Yellows were derived from flowers, the ochreous earth and lichens. 6 Brown dyes were created from a variety of tree seeds and barks. For example, seeds of the native molle trees were ground and used to paint textiles. By combining dyes other colors were produced. A great variety of neutral colors in both cotton and the animal wools were found in Peru. Natural cotton varied from a very clear white to a dark brown color.