Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2007 with funding from IVIicrosoft Corporation http://www.archive.org/details/accidentsofantiqOOhogarich ACCIDENTS OF AN ANTIQUARY'S LIFE MACMILLAN AND CO.. Limited LONDON BOMBAY • CALCUTTA MELBOURNE THE MACMILLAN COMPANY NEW YORK • BOSTON • CHICAGO ATLANTA • SAN FRANCISCO THE MACMILLAN CO. OF CANADA. Ltd, TORONTO OF ,, THE UNIVERSITY OF !&UFORNihc ACCIDENTS OF AN ANTIQUARY'S LIFE BY D. G. HOGARTH AUTHOR OF *A WANDERING SCHOLAR,' ETC. WITH FORTY ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN BY THE AUTHOR AND HIS COMPANIONS OF THE UNIVERSITY OF MACMILLAN AND CO., LIMITED ST. MARTIN'S STREET, LONDON 1910 % GLASGOW : PRINTED AT THE UNIVERSITY PRESS BY ROBERT MACLEHOSE AND CO. LTD. PREFACE Among many companions in these accidents who are not named in the text, lest the book should become a string of names, I have to thank five especially because they have allowed me to use photographs taken when we were together. These are Mr. Alison V. Armour, owner of the " Utowana," Mr. Richard Norton, a comrade during the cruise of that yacht and at Siut and in Syria, Messrs. A. W. Van Buren and C. D. Curtis, members of the yachting party, and Mr. J. A. R. Munro, who endured many things with me in Asia Minor in 1891. Four others. Dr. A. C. Headlam, who was the third of Sir W. M. Ramsay's party in 1890, Mr. B. Christian, my companion in Thessaly before the Graeco-Turkish war broke out, Mr. J. G. C. Anderson, who cruised with me to Lycia in 1897, and Mr. A. E. Henderson, who did loyal service at Ephesus, I cannot forbear to name. I have also to express thanks to the proprietors and editors of three magazines, the Monthly^ Cornhill^ and Macmillans^ for their kind consent to my using, in five chapters of this book, the second to the sixth, parts of articles which appeared in their issues prior to 1905. Finally, my friend and critic, Charles Robert Leslie Fletcher, who read this book in proof, knows how greatly I am beholden to him. D. G. H. Oxford, 1909. CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE Introductory Apology of an Apprentice - i I. An Interlude - - - - 21 II. Lycia ------ 43 III. Crete ------ 66 IV. Nile Fens - - - - - 91 V. The Satalian Gulf - - - 108 VI. Cyrene - - - - - - 123 VII. Digging ------ 142 VIII. The Sajur - - - - - 160 8 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE FRENCH CORPORAL DRILLING CRETAN VILLAGE GUARDS (1898) - ^ - - - - Frontispiece THE WHITE CLIFFS OF HIERAPOLIS - _ - _ 6 THE VALLEY OF THE PONTIC LYCUS AT SUNRISE - - 1 A WRECKED MOSLEM VILLAGE OF CRETE - - - 25 LYCIAN TOMBS --------48 THE THEATRE OF MYRA ------ 49 THE REPUTED TOMB OF ST. NICHOLAS AT MYRA - - 52 THE SAND-CHOKED THEATRE OF PATARA - - - 54 THE DESPOILED HARPY TOMB _ - - - _ 62 BLACKENED STUMPS AND PITS ----- 6/ SPONGE BOATS IN ZAKRO BAY ----- 79 A BRIDAL BOWER AT GAIF ----- 92 AN OLD FEN VILLAGE --_-__ 9^ THE LONE CONVENT OF GEMIANA _ - - _ loa A FEN FISHERMAN ------- 102 THE NORTHERNMOST HAMLET ----- 105 CAMELS LOADING AT BALTIM _ - - _ _ 106 HALF BURIED PALM-FOREST, BALTIM - - - - lO/ THE UTOWANA AT CNIDUS ------ 108 PHASELIS AND TAKHTALY - - - - - -II3 1I X LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE THE THEATRE OF ASPENDUS - - - - - Il8 - IN THE THEATRE OF ASPENDUS - - - - 1 19 TURKS IN THE CORRIDOR AT ASPENDUS - - - I20 THE THEATRE OF SID^ ______ 121 THE ROCK ROAD FROM APOLLONIA TO CYRENE - - 1 26 - - TOMBS OF CYRENE - - - - -1 27 - THE MUDIR OF CYRENE - - - - - 1 29 THE APOLLO FOUNTAIN - - - - - - 133 BEDAWIS OF THE BEN I HAASA - - - - - 135 - APOLLONIA IN STORM - - - - - 1 38 RIGGING THE GREAT PUMP AT EPHESUS - - - 150 THE TREASURE SPOT AND PUMPS - - - - 15 A SEALED GRAVE-DOOR - - - - - "155 MODELS OF SERVANTS AT THEIR WORK BESIDE A COFFIN 1 58 EUPHRATES FROM THE MOUND OF CARCHEMISH - - 160 THE SAJUR VALLEY AT SUNSET FROM TELL BASHAR - 164 TELL AHMAR ACROSS EUPHRATES - - - - I? A EUPHRATEAN FERRY - - - - - - 173 HITTITE INSCRIPTION AT TELL AHMAR - - - 174 - FALLEN LION OF SHALMANESER II. AT TELL AHMAR 1 75 — OF INTRODUCTORY. APOLOGY OF AN APPRENTICE. And ta'en the Antiquarian trade I think they call it. Burns. I WILL not take the name of Antiquary without apology, and hereby, liberandi animam meam causa ^ make it in an Introductory, to be passed over if the reader pleases. Your true Antiquary is born, not made. Sometimes an infirmity or awkwardness of body, which has dis- posed a boy to shun the pursuits of his fellows, may help to detach the man for the study of forgotten far off things ; but it is essential that there be inborn in him the type of mind which is more curious of the past than the present, loves detail for its own sake, and cares less for ends than means. Nevertheless, accident may make an Antiquary, as good as another, out of anybody whose boyish education has given him, willy nilly, some knowledge of the elder world. Let him be thrown, for example, in early man- hood, much into lands whose ancient monuments con- spicuously exalt the past at the expense of the present. The necessary curiosity can grow within him, disposing his mind to study antiquarian detail as a duty, and, in time, a pleasure ; and through apprenticeship he may learn and love the trade to which he was not born. I claim to be no better than this Antiquary made, and made none too soon. Nothing disposed me to the 2 ACCIDENTS OF AN ANTIQUARY'S LIFE trade in early years. If I was taken as a child to minsters and abbeys, I endured their chill aisles in lively hope of a pastrycook to come, and at our oldest Public School had no feeling for the grey Gothic austerities among which live the Foundationers, of whose number I was not. Nor was it until half my Oxford course had been run that I discovered curiosity about any ancient thing, and that curiosity was far from antiquarian. Scholar of my College though I was, I had been better known as a freshman for a gamester in a small way than for anything else ; but some study was forced upon me, and in the course of it I happened on Mommsen's panegyric of Caesar. The charm of guessing ancient motives from the records of ancient deeds fascinated me—there is much in the pursuit to appeal to a gambler —and I resolved to attempt a speculative biography of some great man. Looking about me for another im- perial figure, I fixed, greatly daring, on Alexander the Great, foreswore cards and the course, and stepped out of the strict lists of the schools into the field of Mace- donian history. The spacious world over which Alex- ander moved fired my imagination and stirred a lust for discovery. As a child my keenest joy was to announce the finding of an untrodden way in the outskirts of a Lincolnshi?e townlet, and my best remembered grief was to learn that it was already known and named. I could write a good deal about Macedonians when I went into the Schools, but barely enough on other matters to win salvation ; and if I was made presently a tutor and fellow of my College, it was less for my actual scholarship than for hope of its future. I found academic life not greatly to my liking at that age, and when an endowment for scholarly travel abroad was set for com- APOLOGY OF AN APPRENTICE 3 petition, I entered in forlorn hope of escape. To the equal surprise of others, I was chosen among better scholars, and found myself in a quandary. If I was to research abroad as a classical scholar, I wished to ex- plore Alexander's steps ; but to go up alone into Asia was beyond my means. A friend, who knew my difficulty, told me that William Martin Ramsay, the well-known traveller in Asia Minor, needed an appren- tice. Asia Minor was not Persia, but it was Asia, and fair field for a pioneer. I offered myself, and was accepted, but on the sole condition, that I made some preliminary study at the newly-founded Archaeological School in Athens. I knew nothing of Greek archaeo- logy, having never during six years entered the Museum of my own Oxford ; and thus, at an age when most archaeologists are past masters of some branch of their trade, I had to begin apprenticeship. Perhaps it may interest some to hear by what accidents an antiquary of a sort was made out of a wandering scholar. I went to Athens early in 1887, as raw a neophyte as ever entered Academe. The British School, then in its first youth, was not yet assured of its place in the local republic of science, and held little converse with other Schools. The famous Antiquary who directed it could have guided better, though not more gladly, a student of Attic architecture than a would-be explorer of Asia, and the library held few books, though, heaven knows, enough that I had not read. My one fellow-student helped me much, and would have helped me more, had I been in the temper to learn. But I had come to Athens as a man should not, if he is to love her—come without trained taste for the ancient art, 4 ACCIDENTS OF AN ANTIQUARY'S LIFE which is her only wealth, and without instinctive reverence for her soil. I gaped at her monuments like any other tourist, though with less than the common understanding, fled from German lectures on her topo- graphy, and took refuge in studying her inscriptions as students of history will who are brought unworthy into the presence of her art.