Natural Product Radiance, Vol. 7(1), 2008, pp.22-29 Research Paper Development of natural dye based sindoor V P Kapoor1*, K Katiyar1, P Pushpangadan2 and N Singh3 1National Botanical Research Institute, Rana Pratap Marg, Lucknow - 226 001, Uttar Pradesh, India 2Amity Institute for Herbal & Biotech Development Thycaud, P.O. Pujappura, Thiruvananthapuram - 695 014, Kerala, India 3International Institute of Herbal Medicines, Gomti Nagar, Lucknow - 226 010 *Correspondent author, address: 3/71, Vibhav Khand, Gomti Nagar, Lucknow-226 010 E-mail: [email protected] Received 25 January 2007; Accepted 5 September 2007 Abstract In India sindoor is an important cosmetic item for married women, worship and other purposes. Prolonged use of synthetic dye-based sindoors has shown symptoms of hair loss, graying of hair, edema, erythema and even skin cancer. In view of above scenario, a process technology has been developed to produce an alternative, safe, non-toxic, eco-friendly natural dye-based sindoor. The process is novel as pharmaceutical/food grade natural ingredients are used as bulking/filler materials and no salt of any heavy metals are used. The process provides an opportunity for the preparation of different shades of sindoor like orange, red, dark red, mehroon, etc., using different dyes and their blends. As per results of Double Blind Clinical testing, the red and mehroon coloured herbal sindoor is quite safe for skin application having no adverse effect on skin. The orange coloured herbal sindoor is quite suitable for worship and other purposes. It provides an option to replace synthetic dye-based sindoor. Keywords: Eco-system, Herbal sindoor, Lead poisoning, Natural dyes, Skin allergy, Toxicity. IPC code; Int. cl.8— A61K 8/97, A61Q 1/00, A61Q 1/12, C09B 61/00 Herbal Sindoors Introduction Germany was the first to take initiative to The turmeric powder which becomes red Sindoor is an important cosmetic put ban on numerous specific azo-dyes for when mixed with lime juice or lime item during worship and other occasions their manufacturing and applications. The powder (calcium compound), moistened by Hindus. The married women apply it Netherlands, India and some other in water, or with alum, iodine and at the parting of the hair as a traditional countries have also followed with a ban camphor, or with oil and sea shell powder symbol of auspiciousness. Most of the on similar lines1,2. Most of the countries (calcium salts), or red ochres (geru), sindoor available in market are made have brought effective laws and chandan and kasturi. It can also be from synthetic dyes, filler materials, lime regulations3,4 related to the consumer made from sandalwood mixed with musk, and salts of lead and mercury to provide health and safety, monitoring of or from a mixture of saffron ground with fast and brilliant red shades. Prolonged production processes, the chemicals being kusumbha flower (safflower). Another use of the sindoor may cause health used, effluent treatment and protection traditional ingredient used in making hazards and lead poisoning. During the of eco-system. In the present trend of work sindoor was raw rice in water heated in a last one and half decades, there is much culture, safety and eco-requirements will pan until it formed into a glue-like red concern at international level about the continue to dominate the trade and the carbonaceous compound which solidified use of safe colouring agents and processor will need to understand the on cooling and finally powdered. It is also intermediates in processing of consumer changes that need to be done to satisfy believed that in olden days, sindoor was products like dyed textile, foods, cosmetics these requirements5, 6. also made with a special type of red etc. Considering the ill effects of synthetic Traditionally, the red sindoor was marble stone, covered with turmeric and dyes on human beings and eco-system, made at home from turmeric and alum. a little oil and left undisturbed for a few 22 Natural Product Radiance Research Paper days, after which it turned into red dermatological disorders. It is observed their extraction and application do not powder7,8. that the continuous use of sindoor causes cause any health hazards and disturb our However, these traditional decolouration of skin at applied site eco-system. Previously, the Institute has preparations have long been forgotten and also greying the hairs. Lead exposure developed the process technology for the after the emergence of synthetic dye can resulted into a wide range of preparation of herbal gulals15, which is industry which offered a variety of brilliant biological effects, depending upon the now produced on commercial scale. and fast red dyes at cheap cost. Now-a- level and duration of exposure11. When Inspite of above advantages, days, sindoor is produced from chemical traces of lead salts ingested, inhaled or natural dyes possess some limitations and dyes, synthetic materials and lead salts. absorbed, these can harm virtually technical drawbacks like, colour yield, Some of the manufactures produced it every organ in the human body, especially higher cost, limited shades, fastness through powdering crude red lead the brain, kidney and reproductive properties and blending problems16-19. (Pb3O4). Some commercially prepared system. These factors restrict their wide usage at sindoor contain toxic, low grade It is important to mention here commercial scale. It is due to the fact that commercial red lead oxide as such or that a widely used traditional cosmetic, in era of synthetic dyes from last two along with other synthetic or natural kohl (kajal/surma), has been reported as centuries, natural dyes were totally bulking materials. The sindoor available a lead-hazardous eye make-up which is neglected and the amount of research in market is usually of non standard worn around the eyes in Asia, Africa and efforts devoted to them is negligible. The specifications and parameters and their Middle East. It may be a pervasive source constraints and drawbacks of natural dyes quality is generally unfit for skin of lead poisoning in these areas12-14. can be solved through systematic scientific application. As there are no strict The main component of kohl is PbS along approach. NBRI, Lucknow has made regulations, there is very likelihood that with Pb3O4, amorphous carbon, Fe3O4, adequate R&D efforts to tackle the some other harmful and banned red dyes ZnO, CaCO3 and H3BO3. The consumers impediments of these colours for their are being used. In general, manufacturers are generally unaware of possible lead large scale utilization in textile dyeing, aim is to produce a fast blood red powder uptake from this unsuspected traditionally colouring foods, drugs and other at cheap cost using any brilliant red dye used item. The presence of lead in consumer goods16, 20-25. without considering the hazards and after cosmetics is strictly prohibited in UK and A variety of natural dyes obtained effects of the product. Different methods USA. from different plant and insect like blending of red dye with ingredient In view of above scenario sources16,17,24,26 or their blends can or mixing of lead salts with fillers or oils National Botanical Research Institute be used for preparation of herbal are adopted to obtain good bright red (NBRI), Lucknow launched a research sindoors depending upon the colour and powders. It is not surprising that red colour programme to develop safe alternative to shades. As many plant sources also might be obtained by using Rhodamine B synthetic dyes/heavy metal salt's based contain lead and other heavy metals, the dye, which can induce hereditary sindoors from natural dyes and natural plant raw materials for this study were disorders. Red colour may also be derived ingredients. Natural dyes possess full obtained from known sources. Some of from mercury sulphite, which can cause potential to be used as colouring agent in the prominent dyes and their sources are skin cancer. All these toxic substances can the preparation of safe sindoors, because as follows: cause hair loss, edema, erythema, allergic contact dermatitis and even systemic intoxication9,10. Prolonged use of the sindoor generally causes local irritation and skin toxicity problems. It can also be resulted into blisters, itching, rashes, pigmentation, and at times, serious Annatto seeds Madder roots Beet root Paprika fruits Vol 7(1) January-February 2008 23 Research Paper Annatto 16, 24, 26 commonly known as manjith or is betanin (red betacyanin; 75-90 %) Annatto, Bixa orellana Linn. manjistha is a variable prickly hardy (Fig. V) alongwith other pigment, yellow of Bixaceae family is a shrub or small tree creeper, up to 10 m long, common betaxanthins; both are water-soluble. that grows up to 5 to 10 m and commonly throughout India, ascending to an altitude There exists several varieties and some of known as Annatto, Achiote, Achiotl, of 3,750 m. them contain up to 200mg/100g fresh Achote, Urucu, etc. It grows throughout The principle colour constituent weight of betacyanins representing 2% of South India and also found in some other present in the roots of R. cordifolia is the soluble solid. In India, beet root does parts of country. The seeds are the source purpurine (trihydroxy anthraquinone) not exist in the approved PFA list for food of an orange-yellow dye. It contains 40 to (Fig. III) 0.37-0.5 %. The roots also application but very large quantities of 45% cellulose, 3.5 to 5.5% sucrose, 0.3 contain munjistin with small proportion colour are consumed in Western Europe to 0.9% essential oil, 3% fixed oil, 4.5 to of xanthopurpurin and pseudopurpurin. as food additive. The colour can also be 5.5% pigments, 13 to 16% protein, as well The main colouring matter in the roots obtained through spray drying.