SNlART TRAVELER English-Canadian mother told me-that she used to visit the sugar shack when she was little, too. I've never been here before, but it feels as if I've come home.The essential expe- rience hasn't changed. Draft horses still pull a sleigh through rhe snow, metal pails glint in the light of the winter sun, and the sweet smell of syrup and fresh wood waft from the 1og cabin. The adult me is far more interested in the syruping process than the child me was, but both grown-up and kid still deiight in the sweet reward. I get a chance to try the syrup when the lunch bell rings. In the dining room, serv- ers wearing floral aprons bustle around oversize wooden tables to drop off carafes of syrup. I watch as diners pour the amber liquid liberally over tleir meals. Lunch is a traditional feast that consists of maple-smoked ham, meat pies, mashed potatoes, baked beans, and pancakes. Sit- Hello'angan Lunch is served family-style at the Sucrerie de la Montagne. ting bottom-to-bottom on rough-hewn benches, I strike up a conversation with a tour bus driver and discover that he lives just five miles from the town where I grew up; he too has vivid memories of visiting SweetHomecoming sugar shacks as a child. On the other side of me, a family toasts my visit glasses A visit to a sugar shack in the maple forests of with euebec brings of caribou, a Qu6becois drink made of backchildhoodmemories. ByJoDTHELMER wine, whisky, and maple syrup. As my stack of pancakes steep in syrup, Faucher stops by and motions to the stage where a man in lumberjack shirt plays a HEN IWAS EIGHT, sinking to find out if my childhood memories beautiful rendition of La Bohime tsrng my teeth into a piece of freshly stand up to my aduk sensibilities. nothing but a saw and a makeshift bow. made maple taffi' was even bet- The long-forgotten but familiar scent of "He's good, eh?" ter than chomping the ears off of choco- burning logs and frying sausages hits me Indeed.The only thing missing is mapie late bunnies at Easter or scarfing muttiple when I enter Ihe cabane d suue, as sugar taffg which can't be made properly with- candy bars on Hailoween. shacks are cailed in Canada's French- out snow. Faucher promises to have a Once a year, I boarded the bus with speaking provinces. In an era when most piece waiting on my next visit. The music classmates or hopped in the car with my such enterprises have retired their galva- compels some older couples to get up parents and traveled from the suburbs of nized buckets and mechanized the manu- and dance. As the room empties, Faucher Toronto into the dense woods of Ontario facturing process) Sucrerie de la Montagne and I talk-about preserving tradition and Quebec where maple syrup was still does things the old- and dating and dogs. made. The best taffy was handmade at fashioned way. t lt's a conversation I'd sugar shacks-family-run syrup opera- During a tour, have wirh a big brorher, tions, some of which have reception halls co-owner Stefan Faucher not someone I have just offering tours and home-styie meals fea- explains the process of met hours before. At turing pancakes doused in maple syrup. making maple syrup, this sugar house in the I braved lorv temperatures and endured from tapping trees and Quebec woods, every- tree-tapping and sap-boiling demos just so collecting sap from buck- tling from the crackling I could watch the real magic happen: the ets hung throughout the fire ro rhe gut-warming moment when an expert hand poured the forest to building a fire liquor feels comfortable warm syrup over a plank of packed snow and boiling the liquid and sweet, like family. r and with a few flicks of the wrist made a until it thickens into sublime confection on a Popsicle stick. syrup. He telis tales of Frotn Februarg through One bite of the sticky, sweet treat, and fro- generations of families April, the Sucrerie de la zen fingers and toes were forgotten. he has known who return Montagne ffirs a package Now, 30 years later, I travel from my year after year. I over- that includes a full meal, adopted home in North Carolina to the hear a French-Canadian tottr, sleigh ride, and maple Sucrerie de la Montagne in Rigaud, a vil_ mother tell her daughter raffy about (www lage 43 miies outside of for 830 Montreal. I want the same thing my own Fresh maple taffy on a bed of snow . s ucrerie de latnontagne. com ), 44 NATToNAT cEocRApHrc TRAVELER MARCH 2011 llllillilililililllllttfltl trave er.nationalgeograph c.corx.