Artistic handicraft Elements In 3 European Partners SPAIN TURKEY POLAND This project has been founded with support from the European Commission. This publication reflects the views only of the author and the Commission cannot be held responsible for any use which may be made of the information contained therein. 1 ARTISTIC HANDICRAFT ELEMENTS IN EUROPEAN FOLK COSTUMES Artistic Handicraft Elements In Canarian Folk Costumes ARTISTIC HANDICRAFT ELEMENTS IN EUROPEAN FOLK COSTUMES 2 RESULTS OF THE CANARIAN LOCAL TEAM’S RESEARCH IN AHEC GRUNDTVIG PROJECT The local team of the Spanish partner in Grundtvig project called Artistic Handicraft in European Cultures has focused their research into two fundamental aspects of our traditional clothing: the handmade fabrics and tailoring of traditional costumes. This paper is the result of the research on traditional fabrics mainly. Speaking of crafts in Canarian costumes, it is suitable to distinguish typical from traditional dress. In the Canary Islands there are costumes dress models that have become popular and are considered as the most representative of the islands. In some cases such as the island of La Palma and El Hierro, these models correspond to the one used by the population in the past. Other costumes such as the ones of the islands of Tenerife, La Gomera and Lanzarote co-exist different old handicrafts but elements of different historical periods. And then we still have the models created by artists like Nestor Martin Fernandez de la Torre who designed the costumes that today officially represent Fuerteventura and Gran Canaria and has very little to do with the costumes formerly used by the inhabitants of these two islands. The traditional dress of the Canary Islands, comprising the clothing worn by various social classes of the islands, are models that have been used in the past and currently breed in different areas such as the popular festivals and celebrations, in the costumes of the folk groups and others in the cultural, institutional representatives and others. In the Islands with the factors that determine the forms of common dress there is a traditional way of dressing with is very similar on the basics, but there are little quirks that distinguish the inhabitants of an island to the other and even, at times, a locality or region of another. In the Islands with the factors that determine the forms of common dress there is a traditional way of dressing with is very similar on the basics, but there are little quirks that distinguish the inhabitants of an island to the other and even, at times, a locality or region of another. ARTISTIC HANDICRAFT ELEMENTS IN EUROPEAN FOLK COSTUMES 3 RAW MATERIALS For the preparation of their clothing, the islanders mainly employ locally produced products such as wool, linen and silk. With linen they woven with large canvases, highly esteemed for its durability. It was used to make the personal and household lingerie, being smooth and whitened for the first and more or less lists with some color in the second case. ARTISTIC HANDICRAFT ELEMENTS IN EUROPEAN FOLK COSTUMES 4 For special clothing they used finest linen or cotton fabrics of foreign origin. The wool ―of the country” (of the country means locally produced), with a certain roughness but high strength allowed taffeta and twill weave and could also mixtures linen or cotton. It was used in natural colors or dyed with local produce. There was a lot of fondness for bright saturated colors and mixing them together giving surprising results. Silk dyed in a wide color range and with its smooth taffetas, lists or tables, velvet, twill, ribbons, braids, etc. were woven These fabrics were used for making the skirts, bodices, jerkins party, gala and accessories, as could be stockings, scarfs, shawls, etc. THE DRESS OF WOMAN The female attire follows guidelines that took shape in the Renaissance introduced in the archipelago with colonization. Canarian women covered their heads coverings used Canarian items of different origins and materials: vegetable fiber hats or felt locally made, ―monteras‖ of wool woven fabric of various types. Below them garments such as shawls, scarves, toques, etc. that could be used alone or in combination. ARTISTIC HANDICRAFT ELEMENTS IN EUROPEAN FOLK COSTUMES 5 Torso began to dress with a blouse with long or short sleeves; on it the jerkin, doublet and jacket. As supplements, shoulder scarves and shawls and wrap the wool capes or large shawls as well known for "sobretodos" coats. From the waist down: carrying a variable number of petticoats (red woolen petticoat and outer petticoat or skirt). In the nineteenth century popularized apron. The legs are dressed in woolen or linen in natural colors and some special occasions, embroidered silk. Footwear consisted ―shoes of ears‖ to tie or type of bootie with or without buckles. Detail of sleeve garters in a traditional blouse in silk. La Pal ARTISTIC HANDICRAFT ELEMENTS IN EUROPEAN FOLK COSTUMES 6 PIECES OF THE WOMEN’S COSTUMES IN CANARIES HAT. Made of fine ―pleita‖ or palm mat (sheaf). On one side of a motif it is placed in a loop or something. The models were varied. SCARF. It was used silk, cotton or wool. They were smooth, prints and paintings. Manufacturing industry was almost always. OVERCOAT. Large square shawls. Several colors plain or plaid. Predominantly black color. It was used as warm clothes. EARRINGS. The most common were known for "ear-studs" or "crescent ear-studs." There is some more teardrop-shaped models, "almond", "coffee bean", "acorn", etc. UNDERPANTS "bloomers" lower garment manufactured from yarn. There were different models. Its length ranged from knee to near the ankles. HALF. Garment used to cover the legs, usually wool. The predominant colors were black, gray, brown, etc. PETTICOAT undergarment made of fine linen or white cotton. They used to be adorned with tucks, lace, etc. SMOCK. Undergarment and warm. They got under the skirt. They were fashioned into cloth or flannel. They used to be red adorned with black ribbons. SKIRT. Outer garment. They were tailored for industrial fabrics. The shape and color were varied. BLOUSE (WOMEN SHIRT). For industrial manufacture cotton fabrics were used. They could be: smooth, embossed checkered or listed, and different designs. ARTISTIC HANDICRAFT ELEMENTS IN EUROPEAN FOLK COSTUMES 7 APRON. Garment used to cover the front of the skirt. They adorned with all kinds of work: pleats, tucks, ruffles, etc. It was a very popular garment at that time. TAIL COAT. Outer garment with sleeves. The models and methods were varied and tissues. FOOTWEAR. Boots and shoes made of leather. They are usually black RURAL WOMAN OF TENERIFE. THE LATE NINETEENTH AND EARLY TWENTIETH CENTURIES ARTISTIC HANDICRAFT ELEMENTS IN EUROPEAN FOLK COSTUMES 8 ARTISTIC HANDICRAFT ELEMENTS IN EUROPEAN FOLK COSTUMES 9 MEN'S CLOTHING Men wore hats of various types, in which the height, shape of the cup and wing size varies over time and place. Very popular were the ―monteras” (the hat traditionally worn by many males and females in the folk costumes of the Iberian peninsula) in almost all the islands, being different form and ways of placing them, according to the weather requires. On linen shirt they used straight jacket, list or silk. They used to have metal buttons and variable number of pockets. On both the jacket, short and with garrisons in the oldest examples and longest and single copies, similar to existing American, later on in the above examples they were carried. Underpants were simple, straight cut, its length and width were variables. Its use has been perpetuated in the clothes of the fighters scramble Canarian wrestling. On them were ―alzapón‖ (hatch that covers the front of the pants) breeches, with very narrow and tight through buttons almost always unbuttoned left leg. This garment used to reach the knee. During the nineteenth century breeches simplify losing buttons and buttonholes, always remaining open legs protruded where the underpants are shown. ARTISTIC HANDICRAFT ELEMENTS IN EUROPEAN FOLK COSTUMES 10 To house the lower back, avoiding accidents and secured breeches and shorts, men wore the sash or girdle, which used to be plain wool or silk, or list boxes. The legs were covered with stockings or gaiters, the first were made of wool, linen or silk embroidered occasions. Gaiters only covered the leg and the top of the foot. They could be wool or leather. The most used male footwear was shoe in different models. Another popular type of footwear were called „majos‖(nice people), a kind of rustic sandal made from raw skins that were tied to the foot by straps of the same material. To wrap the covered with different types of garments such as could be layered, capes, blankets, ―anguarines‖ (Rustic coat of coarse cloth without sleeves, worn over other garments against the cold and rain), Marseilles, shirts, etc. PIECES OF THE WOMEN’S COSTUMES IN CANARIES UNDERWEAR. Wide canvas pants. They are carried under the trousers. They can also be worn alone. They are white. SHIRT. The earliest were made of linen or thread. His form was straight. Later genres are made with industrial cotton plain colors or listings. Collars and cuffs were single or double. ARTISTIC HANDICRAFT ELEMENTS IN EUROPEAN FOLK COSTUMES 11 SHIRT "NECK CABEZÓN" bends in half resulting in the double neck, the same is done with fists. BREECHES (outer garment). For clothing fabrics and some industrial country are used. It covers from the waist to the knee. They come in different makings. Tenerife peasant costume in the late nineteenth and early twentieth The peasants from this period are one of the better known man’s clothes. ARTISTIC HANDICRAFT ELEMENTS IN EUROPEAN FOLK COSTUMES 12 WAISCOAT. They still retain some forms and analog details.