Volume 1, Issue 2, Autumn 2017 Front cover image: John June, 1749, print, 188 x 137mm, British Museum, London, England, 1850,1109.36. The Journal of Dress History Volume 1, Issue 2, Autumn 2017 Managing Editor Jennifer Daley Editor Alison Fairhurst Published by The Association of Dress Historians [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org i The Journal of Dress History Volume 1, Issue 2, Autumn 2017 ISSN 2515–0995 [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org Copyright © 2017 The Association of Dress Historians Online Computer Library Centre (OCLC) accession number: 988749854 The Association of Dress Historians (ADH) is Registered Charity #1014876 of The Charity Commission for England and Wales. The Association of Dress Historians supports and promotes the advancement of public knowledge and education in the history of dress and textiles. The Journal of Dress History is the academic publication of The Association of Dress Historians through which scholars can articulate original research in a constructive, interdisciplinary, and peer–reviewed environment. The journal is published biannually, every spring and autumn. The Journal of Dress History is copyrighted by the publisher, The Association of Dress Historians, while each published author within the journal holds the copyright to their individual article. The Journal of Dress History is distributed completely free of charge, solely for academic purposes, and not for sale or profit. The Journal of Dress History is published on an Open Access platform distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited. The editors of the journal encourage the cultivation of ideas for proposals. Please view the Submission Guidelines on the journal’s website for more detailed information regarding the submission of articles, book reviews, and other pieces for publication consideration. The graphic design of The Journal of Dress History utilises the font, Baskerville, a serif typeface designed in 1754 by John Baskerville (1706–1775) in Birmingham, England. The logo of The Association of Dress Historians is a monogram of three letters, ADH, interwoven to represent the interdisciplinarity of our membership, committed to scholarship in dress history. The logo was designed in 2017 by Janet Mayo, longstanding ADH member. ii The Journal of Dress History Advisory Board The editors of The Journal of Dress History gratefully acknowledge the support and expertise of the Advisory Board, the membership of which is as follows, in alphabetical order: MBE, Independent Scholar MA, Central Saint Martins MA, FMA, Independent Scholar MA, Royal Collection Trust MA, MSLS, MAEd, Kent State University PhD, FBS, The Burgon Society MA, Victoria and Albert Museum MA, Museum of London PhD, University of Copenhagen PhD, University of Southern Indiana PhD, Victoria and Albert Museum Royal Pavilion and Brighton Museums MA, Royal Collection Trust PhD, Courtauld Institute of Art MA, National Museums Scotland MA, NTF, University of Warwick PhD, Catholic University, Eichstaett–Ingolstadt iii Contents 1 Contemplating a Madame Grès Dress to Reflect on Time and Fashion 2 Conceptual Parallels in Fashion Design Practices: A Comparison of Martin Margiela and John Galliano 14 Women’s Shoes of the Eighteenth Century: Style, Use, and Evolution 25 Tina Leser Sketchbooks, 1942–1962: Crossing Continents and Interpreting Ethnic Dress for American Sportswear 44 Paris, 1982–1994: The Fashion Designs of Danish Couturier, Erik Mortensen, for Balmain and Jean-Louis Scherrer 60 Living Garments: Exploring Objects in Modern Fashion Exhibitions 70 The Clothes Worn in 1785 for the Betrothal and Wedding of Carlota Joaquina of Spain and Dom João of Portugal 84 Kimonos for Foreigners: Orientalism in Kimonos Made for the Western Market, 1900–1920 100 Lydia Edwards, 112 Andrew Bolton, 114 iv Aileen Ribeiro, 115 Geraldine Biddle–Perry, 117 Louise Coffey–Webb, 119 Alison Matthews David, 121 Timothy Godbold, 123 125 131 v The Journal of Dress History Volume 1, Issue 2, Autumn 2017 Dear ADH Members and Friends, This issue of The Journal of Dress History is particularly exciting as it features some of the cutting–edge research that is currently being conducted in the field. Thank you to all our authors who have published in this issue, as your effort in research and writing allows the greater community to partake and preview the depth and breadth of what our membership has to offer. A portion of the articles in this issue was presented to the ADH membership at our annual New Research in Dress History Conference, which this year was generously hosted by the University of Brighton on 25 February 2017. I would like to sincerely thank Dr Marie McLoughlin and Prof Lou Taylor for their encouragement, support, and for enabling the ADH to hold our conference at their Brighton campus. Thank you. I would like to gratefully acknowledge ADH member, Kimberley Foy, who assisted in the publication of this issue. As ever, I encourage feedback, so please contact me at [email protected]. I look forward to hearing from you! Best regards, Jennifer Daley Chairman and Trustee, The Association of Dress Historians Managing Editor, The Journal of Dress History 1 The Journal of Dress History Volume 1, Issue 2, Autumn 2017 , Closely defined by its relationship with temporality, fashion is a phenomenon invented by humanity as the answer to an inherent appetite for change and newness, its genesis and development coinciding with the history of the modern Western world. The French sociologist, Gilles Lipovetsky, defends that, for millennia, collective life evolved without much adherence to the cult of fantasy and novelty, secluded from the “instability” and ephemeral temporality of fashion and that only since the decline of the Middle Ages is it possible to recognise it as a system, driven by metamorphosis and dynamic change. Notwithstanding the fact that fashion is broader than clothing, it is the history of apparel that has come to symbolise the privileged showcasing of fluctuations in taste: But until the nineteenth and twentieth centuries the fashion process was most obviously embodied by clothing. Dress was the theatre of the most accelerated, capricious, and spectacular formal innovations.1 Let us consider the dialectical image presented by Walter Benjamin: “The eternal is in any case far more the ruffle on a dress than some idea.”2 For Barbara Vinken this is, at first sight, an absurd provocation, for, asks the author in the article, “Eternity: A Frill on the Dress,” isn’t a ruffle on a dress a frivolous symbol of the futility and inconstant caprice of fashion? The proverbial empire of fashion is the empire of the ephemeral, especially when compared with the profundity and serene beauty of ideas. The time of fashion is not eternity, but the moment. Fashion’s most intimate relationship is its relation with time.3 Fashion, in Benjamin’s paradoxical image, represents the dream of the new and the implications of this affirmation are, according to Vinken, that no other eternity exists in modern culture beyond the moment captured by fashion. In contrast with this chameleonic and transitory conception, it is the goal of this article to show that precisely the opposite can be true, through the contemplation of a Madame Grès dress as an example of the suspension of time in fashion (Figure 1). The relationship between fashion — materialised in a 2 The Journal of Dress History Volume 1, Issue 2, Autumn 2017 George Platt Lynes, 1940, gelatin silver print, 239 x 189mm, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, United States, 41.65.2. sartorial object, a dress — and time (and more concretely temporal closure), is one of the pivotal questions to be developed in the course of this article. As we change from these brief but abstract remarks on time and fashion, which are theoretical in essence, to the tangible imminence of material artefacts, let us focus on a Grès evening dress, dated from 1968, which is now part of the rich textile collection held by the Victoria and Albert Museum in London (Figures 2 and 3).4 Featuring an anatomical and asymmetrical bodice, this is a dress made of a mouldable silk jersey, in a pearl white shade reminiscent of Grès’ early career designs. Grès’ use of intense shades becomes more common from the 1950s onwards, whereas the tonal range of the majority of her frocks and dresses from the 1930s tended to be neutral variations of white and pale tones, which she nonetheless maintained throughout her career. The bodice of the dress has a wide, single shoulder strap with curved pleating, which crosses over to support the bodice, leaving the opposite shoulder bare — this belted waist with one shoulder is evocative of a classical silhouette. Technical virtuosity and aesthetic refinement can be seen in the pleating effect at the bodice, where three different directions coexist in one combined rhythmic pleating. Grès’ dresses demand to be viewed from every angle, since they always reveal new details. This particular dress is no exception. Finely pleated, the bodice is lined with a very light pearl beige silk crêpeline and comprises an interior corset which, in its structure, reveals the passing of time, in the perishability of its components and the marks of the body of the previous wearer, visible in the many signs of use. We can observe the application of satin ribbon and furry velvet to protect the body from the possible discomfort which the bra wire, the corset bones, the fasteners on the left side of the dress, the metal sewing hooks and eyes may introduce. No space is left between the bodice of the dress and the body of the wearer. In the case of Grès, the dress, through its bodice, becomes not only a representation of the body but also the “body” of the absent wearer.