DESIGN DETAILS FW20 edited for FW21 Design details add a dose of drama to this season’s clothing silhouettes. There is lots of newness in the neckline department, with elongated pointy collars, quaint puritan styles, fluid drapery and exaggerated lapels.Shoulder emphasis is created with extra padding, and sleeves continue with poufy volume; dropped shoulder-seams update both looks. Built-in elements include capes and bras, while corset-like effects are constructed with seaming. Tailored wovens gain dimension from twisting and wrapping, while quilting updates with a variety of patterns. Fringe appears across classifications, and the multi-panel “car wash” skirt re-emerges. Ruffles are ubiquitousin DESIGN DETAILS FW21 statement-making layers, as are gathers in the form of ruching, smocking or drawstrings. JW Anderson DESIGNDESIGN DETAILS DETAILS FW21 FW21 •• MINTMODA 1. THE QUAINT COLLAR peter pan, puritan, sailor & chelsea collars lend a quaint, vintage feel; ruffle trim adds naiveté; school uniform inspirations A.W.A.K.E. Mode A.W.A.K.E. Bevza 16 Arlington 2. THE POINTY COLLAR shirt collars are elongated with sharp points; subtle variations of the look include high neck or exaggerated wing Miu Gucci silhouettes DESIGN DETAILS FW21 • MINTMODA Vivetta 4. BIBS & YOKES bibs & plackets add a decorative touch to tops and dresses; outlined with ruffles or trim; self fabric or contrasting versions Ulla Johnson MSGM Veronica Beard Veronica 3. THE DRAPED NECKLINE necklines emulate scarves or kerchiefs; draped panels Adam Lippes wrap around the neck or fall into cowls; key for fluid tops & Burch Tory dresses; unexpected effect for tailored outerwear DESIGN DETAILS FW21 • MINTMODA Anna Sui 5. LAPEL DRAMA extra-large lapels for tailored jackets & coats; wide enough to reach the shoulders; portrait necklines add drama Kwaiden Editions Eckhaus Latta Isabel Marant 6. THE POWER SHOULDER Valentino boxy, extra padded shoulders create a powerful silhouette; also achieved with voluminous pleating; key for jackets & Tod’s outerwear; especially new for sweater knits DESIGN DETAILS FW21 • MINTMODA No 21 8. THE VICTORIAN SLEEVE pouf sleeves of all kinds continue; vintage silhouettes inspire — balloon, Juliet, bishop, lantern; crisp fabrics hold shape & volume Bottega Veneta Adam Lippes Khaite 7. THE BELL SLEEVE flared sleeve silhouettes for knit or woven tops & dresses; Jil Sander bell & virago styles; ruffle cuffs are key Self Portrait DESIGN DETAILS FW21 • MINTMODA Rodarte 9. THE DROPPED SLEEVE shoulder seams at the bicep create a dropped sleeve effect; puff sleeves emphasize the look; key for top layering pieces Simona Marziali Carolina Herrera JW Anderson 10. CAPE EFFECTS built-in capes; panels draped over shoulders or attached to Max Mara Tod’s sleeves; arm slits for versatility; for sweaters, tops, dresses & outerwear DESIGN DETAILS FW21 • MINTMODA Fendi 12. CORSET MATTERS princess seams create a molded, corset-like look, innovative for fitted sweaters; flat felled seams mimic boning or underwires Daks Marc Jacobs MSGM 11. THE BUILT-IN BRA all kinds of bra effects; cone-shaped insets, piecing at the bust, Brandon Maxwell or layered constructions; works for both wovens & knits Vivetta DESIGN DETAILS FW21 • MINTMODA Fendi 13. RUCHING & SMOCKING smocking adds stretchy shape & texture to silhouettes; woven or jerseys; large smocked panels define the torso; interesting placement at sleeve Christian Cowan Rojas Dion Lee 14. THE DRAWSTRING GATHERS self-drawstrings are used to create shirred gathers; Gucci sleeve placement or used to hike up hemlines; functional Victoria Beckham Victoria as well as decorative DESIGN DETAILS FW21 • MINTMODA Burberry 16. TAILORED TWISTS & WRAPS twisted & wrapped effects add dimensional interest to tailored daytime silhouettes; new for suitings & lightweight leathers Jeffery Dodd Dior No 21 15. PLEAT INTEREST new ways with pleats; asymmetric placements; sheer insets, 16 Arlington draped effects; accordion, sunburst, crystal or knife pleats Genny DESIGN DETAILS FW21 • MINTMODA Wickstead 17. PADDING & QUILTING light padding & all kinds of quilting; geometric shapes, hearts or standard boxes; mixed quilting patterns; trapunto too Marni SImona Marziali John Rogers 18. TONAL PIECING Ferragamo tonal color-blocking effects for patchwork & piecing; monochrome pattern mixes with pinstripes or plaids Marco Rambaldi DESIGN DETAILS FW21 • MINTMODA Veronica Beard Veronica 20. STRAPS & BELTS self-belts & straps; unexpected placements at neck or open back; channel elastic, side-release buckles & grommets add interest Preen Noon Koche 19. SLITS & CUTOUTS strategically placed slits & cutouts reveal slivers of skin; Concept Korea works for both knits & wovens; waist, torso & shoulders are Iceberg key placements DESIGN DETAILS FW21 • MINTMODA Almeida 21. WEAR & TEAR distressed effects like holes, snags, pilling & fraying; raw edges & hems; works for both wovens & sweater knits; gives an edge to rich brocades Boss Bottega Veneta Prada 22. SELF-FRINGE cut fringe at hems & edges; unexpected detail for tailored Marni wovens; blanket fringe & suede fringe too; 90s “carwash” Off-White skirts re-emerge DESIGN DETAILS FW21 • MINTMODA Acne 24. BOWS & TIES big self-bows; structured or soft; built-in to garment or tied softly; key placement at neck, waist or bust Marques Almeida Carolina Herrera Celine 23. RUFFLE MANIA self-ruffles of all kinds—especially tiered ruffles — Wang Taoray look fresh for tailored items as well soft pieces; placed at Self Portrait shoulder seam, as a “jabot” front, at waist or allover DESIGN DETAILS FW21 • MINTMODA Erdem DESIGN DETAILS CHECKLIST FW20 edited for SS21 1. THE QUAINT COLLAR 7. THE BELL SLEEVE 13. RUCHING & SMOCKING 19. SLITS & CUTOUTS 2. THE POINTY COLLAR 8. THE VICTORIAN SLEEVE 14. THE DRAWSTRING GATHERS 20. STRAPS & BELTS 3. THE DRAPED NECKLINE 9. THE DROPPED SLEEVE 15. PLEAT INTEREST 21. WEAR & TEAR 4. BIBS & YOKES 10. CAPE EFFECTS 16. TAILORED TWISTS & WRAPS 22. SELF-FRINGE 5. LAPEL DRAMA 11. THE BUILT-IN BRA 17. PADDING & QUILTING 23. RUFFLE MANIA 6. THE POWER SHOULDERS 12. CORSET MATTERS 18. TONAL PIECING 24. BOWS & TIES DESIGN DETAILS FW21 • MINTMODA .