Cyprus, as I Saw it in 1879 Samuel W. Baker Cyprus, as I Saw it in 1879 Table of Contents Cyprus, as I Saw it in 1879.......................................................................................................................................1 Samuel W. Baker...........................................................................................................................................1 INTRODUCTION.........................................................................................................................................1 CHAPTER 1. ARRIVAL AT LARNACA....................................................................................................5 CHAPTER II. THE GIPSY−VANS ENCOUNTER DIFFICULTIES........................................................10 CHAPTER III. ROUTE TO NICOSIA........................................................................................................18 CHAPTER IV. THE MESSARIA...............................................................................................................28 CHAPTER V. START FOR THE CARPAS...............................................................................................39 CHAPTER VI. CAPE ST. ANDREA..........................................................................................................50 CHAPTER VII. KYRENIA AND THE NORTH COAST..........................................................................64 CHAPTER VIII. ROUTE TO BAFFO........................................................................................................81 CHAPTER IX. FROM BAFFO TO LIMASOL..........................................................................................90 CHAPTER X. THE WINE DISTRICT OF LIMASOL..............................................................................98 CHAPTER XI. FROM LIMASOL TO THE MOUNTAINS....................................................................108 CHAPTER XII. THE MONASTERY OF TROODITISSA......................................................................113 CHAPTER XIII. WOODS AND FORESTS.............................................................................................120 CHAPTER XIV. REMARKS ON IRRIGATION.....................................................................................127 CHAPTER XV. LIFE AT THE MONASTERY OF TROODITISSA......................................................132 CHAPTER XVI. SOMETHING ABOUT TAXATION...........................................................................138 CHAPTER XVII. THE DISTRICT OF LIMASOL AND LANDOWNERS............................................147 CHAPTER XVIII. ON POLICE, FOOD, CLIMATE,..............................................................................154 CHAPTER XIX. POLITICAL REFLECTIONS.......................................................................................160 CHAPTER XX. CONCLUSION...............................................................................................................166 APPENDIX................................................................................................................................................167 i Cyprus, as I Saw it in 1879 Samuel W. Baker This page copyright © 2001 Blackmask Online. http://www.blackmask.com • INTRODUCTION. • CHAPTER 1. ARRIVAL AT LARNACA. • CHAPTER II. THE GIPSY−VANS ENCOUNTER DIFFICULTIES. • CHAPTER III. ROUTE TO NICOSIA. • CHAPTER IV. THE MESSARIA. • CHAPTER V. START FOR THE CARPAS. • CHAPTER VI. CAPE ST. ANDREA. • CHAPTER VII. KYRENIA AND THE NORTH COAST. • CHAPTER VIII. ROUTE TO BAFFO. • CHAPTER IX. FROM BAFFO TO LIMASOL. • CHAPTER X. THE WINE DISTRICT OF LIMASOL. • CHAPTER XI. FROM LIMASOL TO THE MOUNTAINS. • CHAPTER XII. THE MONASTERY OF TROODITISSA. • CHAPTER XIII. WOODS AND FORESTS. • CHAPTER XIV. REMARKS ON IRRIGATION. • CHAPTER XV. LIFE AT THE MONASTERY OF TROODITISSA. • CHAPTER XVI. SOMETHING ABOUT TAXATION. • CHAPTER XVII. THE DISTRICT OF LIMASOL AND LANDOWNERS. • CHAPTER XVIII. ON POLICE, FOOD, CLIMATE, • CHAPTER XIX. POLITICAL REFLECTIONS. • CHAPTER XX. CONCLUSION. • APPENDIX. INTRODUCTION. I do not intend to write a history of Cyprus, as authorities already exist that are well known, but were generally neglected until the British occupation rescued them from secluded bookshelves. Even had I presumed to write as a historian, the task would have been impossible, as I am at this moment excluded from the world in the precincts of the monastery of Trooditissa among the heights of ancient Olympus or modern Troodos, where books of reference are unknown, and the necessary data would be wanting. I shall recount my personal experience of this island as an independent traveller, unprejudiced by political considerations, and unfettered by the responsible position of an official. Having examined Cyprus in every district, and passed not only a few days, but winter, spring, and summer in testing the climatic and geographical peculiarities of the country, I shall describe "Cyprus as I saw it in 1879," expressing the opinions which I formed upon the spot with the results of my experience. Although I have read many works upon this island, I have no books with me except that interesting record of the discovery of antiquities by General di Cesnola, and the invaluable compilation for the Intelligence Branch, Quartermaster−General's Department, Horse Guards, by Captain Savile, 18th Royal Irish Regiment. It is impossible to praise the latter work too highly, as every authority, whether ancient or modern, has been studied, Cyprus, as I Saw it in 1879 1 Cyprus, as I Saw it in 1879 and the information thus carefully collected has been classed under special headings and offered to the reader in a concise and graphic form which renders it perfect as a book of reference. I must express my deep appreciation of the assistance that I have derived from Captain Savile's work, as it has directed my attention to many subjects that might have escaped my observation, and it has furnished me with dates, consular reports, and other statistical information that would otherwise have been difficult to obtain. The study of M. Gaudrey's able report to the French government upon the agricultural resources and the geological features of Cyprus, before I commenced my journey, guided me materially in the interesting observations of the various formations and terrestrial phenomena. The experiences of the late British Consul, Mr. Hamilton Lang, described in his attractive volume, together with those of Von Loher, Doctors Unger and Kotschy, have afforded me an advantage in following upon footsteps through a well−examined field of discovery. Before I enter upon a description of my personal examination of the island, it will be advisable to trace a brief outline of the geographical position of Cyprus, which caused its early importance in the history of the human race, and which has been accepted by the British government as sufficiently unchanged to warrant a military occupation in 1878, as a strategical point that dominates the eastern portion of the Mediterranean, and supplies the missing link in the chain of fortified ports from England to the shores of Egypt. In the world's infancy oceans were unknown seas upon which the vessels of the ancients rarely ventured beyond the sight of land; without the compass the interminable blue water was a terrible wilderness full of awe and wonder. The Phoenicians, who first circumnavigated Africa by passing through the then existing canal between Suez and the Nile, coasted the whole voyage, as did in later years the famous Portuguese, Vasco di Gama, and stations were formed along the shores at convenient intervals. Hanno the Carthaginian coasted to an uncertain and contested point upon the western shores of Africa, but no ocean commercial port was known to have existed in the early days of maritime adventure. The Mediterranean offered peculiar advantages of physical geography; its great length and comparatively narrow width embraced a vast area, at the same time that it afforded special facilities for commerce in the numerous ports and islands that would form a refuge in stress of weather. The countries which surrounded this great inland sea were rich; the climate throughout its course combined the temperate with almost tropical, according to the changes of seasons; accordingly, the productions of the earth varying upon the northern and southern coasts, were all that could be required for the necessities of the human race. In this happily situated position commerce was first cradled, and by the interchange of ideas and natural productions, artificial wants were mutually created among the various countries around the great sea margin; the supply of these new requirements and exchange of commodities established trade. With the development of commerce, wealth and prosperity increased; nations became important through the possession of superior harbours and geographical positions, and the entire maritime strength and commercial activity of the ancient world was represented by the Mediterranean. The Phoenicians of Tyre and Sidon were the English of to−day; the Egyptians and the Greeks were followed as the world grew older by the Venetians and Genoese, and throughout the world's history no point possessed a more constant and unchangeable attraction from its geographical position and natural advantages than the island of Cyprus, which in turn was occupied by Phoenicians, Greeks, Egyptians, Persians, Romans, Byzantine rulers, Saracens, Byzantine rulers again, English, Lusignans, Venetians,