©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Ankara & Central Anatolia Why Go? Ankara & Around ..........399 Somewhere between the cracks in the Hittite ruins, the fis- Gordion ......................... 410 sures in the Phyrgian burial mounds and the scratches in Beypazarı ......................411 the Seljuk caravanserais, the mythical, mighty Turks raced Safranbolu & Around ....411 across this highland desert steppe with big ideas and bad- ass swords. Nearby, Alexander the Great cut the Gordion Kastamonu & Around ...417 knot, King Midas displayed his deft golden touch and Ju- Boğazkale, Hattuşa & lius Caesar came, saw and conquered. Atatürk forged his Yazılıkaya ...................... 419 secular revolution along dusty Roman roads that all lead to Alacahöyük ...................423 Ankara, an underrated capital city and geo-political centre. Çorum ...........................423 Further north through the nation’s fruitbowl, in Safranbolu Amasya .........................424 and Amasya, ‘Ottomania’ is still in full swing. Here wealthy Tokat & Around.............428 weekenders sip çay with time-rich locals who preside over Sivas & Around .............430 dark timber mansions. Central Anatolia is the meeting point Konya & Around ...........434 between the fabled past and the prosperous present – a so- Karaman .......................443 journ here will enlighten and enchant. Binbirkilise ...................443 Best Places to Eat When to Go » Konak Konya Mutfağı Ankara (p 440 ) °C/°F Te m p Rainfall Inches/mm 40/104 5/125 » Münire Sultan Sofrası (p 418 ) 30/86 4/100 » Zenger Paşa Konağı 20/68 (p 405 ) 3/75 10/50 » 2/50 Balıkçıköy (p 407 ) 0/32 1/25 -10/14 Best Places to Stay -20/-4 0 J FDNOSAJJMAM » Gül Evi (p 414 ) » Angora House Hotel (p404 ) May & Jun Fruit Jun Summer Dec The Mev- harvest: cher- storms light up lâna Festival in » Efe Backpackers Pension ries the size of a the twin Ottoman Konya is a Sufi (p 414 ) baby’s fist, apri- towns of Safran- spectacular of » Deeps Hostel (p 404 ) cots sweeter than bolu and Amasya. extraordinary » Derviş Otel (p 438 ) a baby’s face… human spirit. 21-ankara-central-anatolia-tur13.indd 397 13/11/2012 7:22:06 PM 398 0 100 km 0 60 miles BLACK SEA Înebolu Cide Ayancîk Sinop (KARADENÎZ) Amasra Küre Daÿlarî Gerze National Park Bafra Burnu Seydiler Azdavay Bafra Bulak Mencilis Pînarbašî Încir Burnu Maÿarasî Kasaba Boyabat Încekaya Daday Aqueduct Kastamonu Samsun Safranbolu Ilgaz Daÿî Altînkaya Terme Yörük Köyü Milli Parkî Barajî Kargî Ünye Karabük Tosya Eskipazar E88 Merzifon Gerede Ilgaz Osmancîk Atkaracala Dörtdivan Çankîrî Amasya Niksar Uÿurludaÿ Corum Rešadiye Turhal ANKARA & CENTRAL ANATOLIA ANKARA CENTRAL ANATOLIA & Alacahöyük Çubuk Kîzîlîrmak Tokat Almus Pazar Alaca Dam Sungurlu Aydîncîk Ballîca Kalecik Yazîlîkaya Artova Cave Ayaš Ankara Boÿazkale Hattuša Yešilyurt Sincan Irmak E88 Sulusaray Yîldîzeli Hafik E90 Gölbašî Yozgat Sorgun Sivas Gordion Kîrîkkale Sekili E88 Çamlîk Direkli Polatlî Yerköy Milli Parkî Akdaÿmadeni Balîklî Balâ Sarîkaya E90 Ulaš Kaplîca Šarkîšla Kangal Kîršehir Boÿazlîyan Hirfanlî KîzîlîrmakGemerek To Divriÿi Dam (50km) Kaldîrîmtuzla Sultan Han Konakpînar Tuzhisar š Tuz Gül ehir Avanos š Cihanbeyli Pînarba î Gölü š Kayseri Gürün Nev ehir Pazarören Acîpînar Ürgüp Bulak Cappadocia Gölü Aksaray Sarayönü Yešilhisar Derinkuyu Kadînhanî Sultanhanî Sille š š Yahyalî Göksun A aÿîpînarba î ehri Niÿde Saimbeyli N Konya E90 Gökyurt Çatalhöyük Karapînar (Kilistra) Ceyhan š Andîrîn Kahramanmaraš Hatunsaray Hotamîš Ereÿli Ulukî la Çiftehan Çumra Kozan š Binbîrkilise Ça Aslanta Pozantî kîr Dam Kîlbasan Ayrancî suy Seyhan Nehri Bahçe Karaman u Ankara & Central Anatolia Highlights 1 Turn back the clocks Kızılay and Kavaklıdere then soak up Konya’s (p 434 ) among the cobblestones neighbourhoods (p 399 ), then blue-tiled Seljuk splendour. and creaky timber- framed discover Turkey’s roots at 6 Dip your toes in eastern mansions in Ottomanised the Museum of Anatolian Turkey and have your travel- Safranbolu (p 411 ) Civilisations (p 399 ) weary feet exfoliated by the 2 Ponder the Pontic tombs 4 Hit the Hittite hills at fi sh at Balıklı Kaplıca (p 434 ) that poke out from craggy cliff s Hattuşa (p 419 ) and get your 7 Knock once on the divine in ancient Amasya (p 424 ) head around ancient history doors at Divriği (p 435 ) 3 Join the cafe-hopping 5 Pay homage to Rumi at crowd in Ankara’s trendy the Mevlâna Museum (p 434 ), 221-ankara-central-anatolia-tur13.indd1-ankara-central-anatolia-tur13.indd 339898 113/11/20123/11/2012 77:22:21:22:21 PPMM.