iii LIST OF FIGURES CHAPTER 1 1-1 Aerial Photograph: Kūkaniloko Birthstones State Monument and 2 Vicinity CHAPTER 2 – no figures CHAPTER 3 3-1 Table: Community Contact List 41 3-2 Table: Kūkaniloko Site Visits 48 CHAPTER 4 Confidential 4-1 Map: O‘ahu, showing the Central Plateau 61 4-2 Map: The Central Plateau 62 4-3 Map: Locations of Places Identified along the Wai‘anae Ridgeline and the Streams 63 4-4 Map: Approximate Locations of Kula within the Central Plateau 69 4-5 Table: List of Place Names in Central Plateau Area 73 4-5 Photo: View from Ko‘olau Slopes Across to Wai‘anae Ridgeline 75 4-6 Photo: Flat Central Area of Central Plateau 75 4-7 Photo: Section of the Wai‘anae Ridgeline Known as Wahine hāpai 76 4-8 Photo: Ka‘ala, from the Kula of Halahape, up the Hale‘au‘au Drainage 77 4-9 Photo: The Ka‘ala to Mā‘ili Spur Ridge 77 4-10 Photo: The Wai‘anae Ridgeline from Līhu‘e within Honouliuli 78 4-11 Photo: Maunauna at the End of the Kānehoa-Maunauna Spur Ridge 78 4-12 Photo: View of Wai‘eli Stream, in the Paupauwela Area 79 4-13 Photo: Kaukonahua Gulch heading seaward 80 4-14 Photo: Kaukonahua Gulch on the Seaward Edge of Schofield’s Housing 80 4-15 Photo: View Down Kalena Gulch 81 4-16 Photo: View Down Hale‘au‘au Gulch 81 4-17 Map: 1851 Map of the ‘Ili of Kalena by Artemas Bishop 82 4-18 Photo: Flat Kula of Wahiawā-Kūkaniloko 82 4-19 Map: Blow-up of Portion of 1881 Kingdom Map, Wai‘anae Ridgeline 83 4-20 Map: Map of Crown Lands, Central Plateau 84 4-21 Map: 1876 Kingdom Map of Central Oahu 85 4-22 Map: 1881 Kingdom Map of Oahu, Central Oahu Portion 86 CHAPTER 5 5-1 Map: Location Map of the Kūkaniloko Birthstones State Monument 88 5-2 Photo: Parking Area and Access to Kūkaniloko Today 88 iv 5-3 Map: Parcel Map of the Monument 89 5-4 Photo: Former Road Leading to the Monument 91 5-5 Photo: Current Sign at the Parking Lot Entry 91 5-6 Photo: Chain Across End of the Road, Just Before Grassy Area 92 5-7 Photo: Large Earthen Platform (Pā Hula) 93 5-8 Photo: Dirt and Rock Piles Near the Platform 93 5-9 Photo: Two Large Stones at Entry to Grassy Area 94 5-10 Photo: the Birthing Stones from a Distance, under Grove of Trees 95 5-11 Photo: A Closer View of the Birthing Stones 95 5-12 Photo: Older Photo Looking Back Towards the Alignment of Stones 96 5-13 Map: 1992 State Parks Map of the Birthing Stones 98 5-14 Photo: The Central Taller Stones 99 5-15 Drawing: Stone 61 with Its Petroglyphs 101 5-16 Photo: Stone 103 with Its Concentric Circles 101 5-17 Map: Showing Man-made Photo 102 5-18 Photo: ConfidentialStones with visible Poho, Abraded Pits or Depressions 103 5-19 Photo: Stone 73, with Its Cement Repair Work 103 5-20 Photo: Boulders Along the West Side of the Grassy Area 104 5-21 Photo: 1990s Platform in Northwestern Corner of Grassy Area 105 5-22 Photo: 1990s Platform in Northeast Corner of Grassy Area 106 5-23 Photo: 1990s Platform in Southeast Corner of Grassy Area 106 5-24 Photo: L-shaped Structure Built in 2010 107 CHAPTER 6 Section 1 6-1 Map: Places mentioned in the AD 1000s-1200s. 120 6-2 Map: Closer view of Central Plateau in AD 1000s-1200s. 121 6-3 Map: The three large countries of O‘ahu in the 1300s. 125 6-4 Ulu Genealogy. 127 6-5 Map: The Kingdom of O‘ahu and Royal Centers 132 Section 2 6-6 Map: The Central Plateau and its lands. 138 6-7 Map: The main trails passing through the Central Plateau 140 6-8 Map: Section of the 1878 Kingdom Map showing the splitting of the Pu‘uloa to Paupauwela Trail as it entered the Central Plateau 141 6-9 Map: Archeological and Historical Places on the Central Plateau 143 6-10 Map: Artemas Bishop’s 1851 map of ½ of Kalena ‘ili 144 6-11 Photograph: Ulumaika stones found during the survey of lands behind Schofield Barracks 146 6-12 Photograph: Hale‘au‘ahu heiau, from 2005 survey 147 6-13 Map: Roughly Estimated Boundary of Chiefly Center of Līhu‘e- Wahiawā-Kalakoa 151 v 6-14 Map: The Central Plateau Landscape: Chiefly Center, Scattered Houses & Fields, Forests 155 6-15 Photo: The Wahine hāpai from Kūkaniloko 163 6-16 Map: Battlegrounds of the Central Plateau 169 Section 3 6-17 Genealogy: Wākea-Ulu-Hema-Hanalaanui Genealogy (Malo) 199 6-18 Genealogy: Version 2, Ulu Genealogy Portion of Genealogy of Keopuolani (Kamakau 1868) 200 6-19 Genealogy: Version 3, Ulu Genealogy (Kamakau 1869) 201 6-20 Genealogy: Version 4, Ulu Genealogy (Malo 1827) 202 6-21 Genealogy: Version 5, Ulu Genealogy (Dibble 1838) 203 6-22 Genealogy: Version 6, Ulu Genealogy (Kepo‘okulou 1835) 204 6-23 Genealogy: Version 7, Ulu Genealogy (Kamakau 1842) 205 6-24 Genealogy:Confidential Ulu Genealogy with Estimated Dates 206 6-25 Photo: Poho or Worn Basins in the Birthstones 213 6-26 Photo: Same Poho, closer up 213 6-27 Drawing: Stone 61, Showing Circles and Fishhook 214 6-28 Photo: Stone 103, with concentric circles 214 6-29 Photo: Stone 69, taken in 1980s 215 6-30 Map: Distances Given from Kūkaniloko to key places by Kamakau 216 CHAPTER 7 7-1 Painting: Kamehameha I 265 7-2 Drawing: Kahekili Ke‘eaumoku 265 7-3 Drawing: High Chief Boki and his wife, High Chiefess Liliha 266 7-4 Painting: Liholiho, Kamehameha II 267 7-5 Painting: Ka‘ahumanu 268 7-6 Drawing: Kukini 268 7-7 Painting: Kīna‘u 271 7-8 Photo: Kekūanāo‘a 271 7-9 Photo: Kamehameha III 272 7-10 Photo: John Meek 275 7-11 Map: Portion of 1876 Kingdom Map, showing the Locations of Grants 604-606 279 7-12 Photo: Lunalilo 280 7-13 Photo: Kalākaua 280 7-14 Map: George Galbraith’s Ranchhouse location 283 7-15 Photo: James Dowsett 285 7-16 Photo: Annie Ragsdale Dowsett, wife of James Dowsett 285 7-17 Photo: Alika Dowsett, possibly at the Leilehua Ranchouse 286 7-18 Photo: 1882-1889 Kalākaua’s Leilehua Ranch, C.H. Judd & cowboys 290 7-19 Photo: Kalākaua’s Leilehua Ranch, C.H. Judd & cowboys 290 7-20 Photo: 1889-1890s, Dowsett’s Leilehua Ranch. 291 vi 7-21 Photo: 1889-1890s, Dowsett’s Leilehua Ranch and landscape 291 7-22 Photo: 1889-1890s, Dowsett’s Leilehua Ranch, cowboys in front of ranch buildings 292 7-23 Photo: 1889-1890s, Dowsett’s Leilehua Ranch, round-up & landscape 292 7-24 Photo: 1889-1890s, Dowsett’s Leilehua Ranch, Mr.and Mrs. Mitchell 293 7-25 Map: Showing the ranches of the Central Plateau 294 7-26 Photo: 1886 house and irrigated kalo plots, Wai‘eli Stream area 295 7-26 Drawing: Stone 61’s Petroglyphs in mid-1800s lettering 306 7-27 Drawing: Stone 103’s Petroglyphs in mid-1800s lettering 307 CHAPTER 8 8-1 Map: Portion of 1899 Map, showing Wahiawa Tract Parcels 312 8-2 Photo: Some of the Founding Members of the Hawaiian Civic Club of Wahiawā 329 8-3 Photos: Confidential Hawaiian Civic Club of Wahiawā’s First Clean Up of Kūkaniloko 330 8-4 Photo: Hiram Diamond with his Hula Makana to Kūkaniloko 331 8-5 Map: 1993 Era Site Improvements at Kūkaniloko 333 8-6 Photos: Early Site Improvements at Kūkaniloko: Hawai‘i Visitors Bureau sign and two large stones with 36 stones in alignments 336 8-7 Photo: Interpretive Sign #1, Kūkaniloko: Birthplace of Ali‘i 341 8-8 Photo: Interpretive Sign #2, Wahiawā: The Sacred Uplands 342 8-9 Photo: Interpretive Sign #3, Marking Time and Place 342 8-10 Photo: Signs Located at Entrance to the Grassy Area of Kūkaniloko 343 8-11 Photo: Vandalism of Interpretive Sign in 2006 345 8-12 Photo: Initial Excavations for ADA Parking Stall 346 8-13 Photos: Keanini Stone & Its Companion at Wahiawā and When Gone 354 8-14 Photo: Possible Current Location of the Healing Stone 355 CHAPTER 9 9-1 Photo: Kumu Hula Snowbird Bento and Ka Pā Hula o Ka Lei Lehua Hālau at Kūkaniloko in 2010 362 9-2 Photo: Hawaiian Civic Club of Wahiawā kupuna dancing on the pā hula at Kūkaniloko 362 9-3 Photo: Kumu Hula at the Kū i Ka Pono Gathering in 2005 366 9-4 Photo: Uluwehi Hopkins and Ka‘ahiki Solis Sharing Their Mele 367 9-5 Photos: Hawaiian Civic Club of Wahiawā Educational Materials & Displays 371 9-6 Photo: Tom Lenchanko sharing his ‘ike with Nā Pua No‘eau haumāna 372 9-7 Photo: Tom Lenchanko sharing his ‘ike with students 372 9-8 Photo: Groups that the Hawaiian Civic Club of Wahiawā has educated at Kūkaniloko 373 9-9 ‘Ānuenue haumāna playing Hawaiian games and cleaning Kūkaniloko 375 9-10 Photos: Some of the native plants being grown at Kūkaniloko 381 vii 9-11 Photos: ‘Uki‘uki and wauke being grown by the Civic Club at Kūkaniloko 381 9-12 Photos: Hale Mua kāne at Kūkaniloko during 2005 Kū i Ka Pono 382 9-13 Photos: Rubellite Kawena Johnson and her former students, Doug Fernandez and Paul Coleman at Kūkaniloko 385 9-14 Photo: Uluwehi Hopkins sitting on the “Navigator’s Seat” 387 9-15 Photo: Doug Fernandez setting up his equipment 388 9-16 Photo: Martha Noyes sharing the map she created about the alignments of Kūkaniloko 389 9-17 Photo: Winter Solstice 2010 looking west at sunset 390 CHAPTER 10 10-1 Aerial Photo: Area Suggested for Boundary for the Historic Property of Kūkaniloko, the sacred birthing place 394 10-2 Map: Map of the Chiefly Center’s Boundaries (very approximately) 396 10-3 Map: TheConfidential Central Plateau of O‘ahu – 36,841 acres 398 CHAPTER 11 -- no figures CHAPTER 12 12-1 Photo: Overgrown Grass at Kūkaniloko 418 12-2 Photo: Dirt, Stones, and Construction Debris Piles 418 12-3 Photo: Cut Trees, Rock Pilings and Fruit Offerings 419 12-4 Photo: Rubbish and Dirt Mounds at the Current Parking Area 419 12-5 Photo: Current Parking Area, far from the stones 421 12-6 Photo: Asian Tourists Experiencing Kūkaniloko 423 12-7 Photo: Tourists Performing a Ritual at the 2 Large Boulders at the Entrance to the Park 424 12-8 Photo: Tourists Lying on the Pōhaku 424 12-9 Photos: Pōhaku Damaged from a Fire and Repaired 426 12-10 Photos: Vandalism of the Interpretive Signs