Cambridge University Press 978-1-107-05536-0 - Body, Dress, and Identity in Ancient Greece Mireille M. Lee Index More information INDEX Abrahams, Ethel, 14 wearing, 293n182 ; defi ned, 152 ; Greek terms for, accessories, 4 , 127–171 , 231 ; body-modifi cation and, 293n176 ; as identity markers, 153 ; kestos functioning as 127 ; defi ned, 127 ; gender and, 127 ; historiographic type of, 138 ; leaf-amulets, 293n182 ; pregnant women attention to, 14 ; social context and meaning of, wearing, 213 ; sex workers wearing, 49 , 153 127 ; types of, 127 . See also belts ; footwear ; garment Anacreon, 74 fasteners ; hand-held accessories ; headgear ; jewelry Anacreontic vases (fi g. 7.13), 147 , 168 , 220 , 267n243 , accidental bodily display, 192 297n274 Acharnians (Aristophanes), 65 , 262n161 , 264n199 , 265n215 anakalypteria (bridal unveiling), 105 , 210 , 211–212 Achilles Painter, red-fi gure lekythos (fi g. 4.7), 103 , 207 , Anaxagoras, 35 306n137 anaxyrides (structured jackets and leggings), 120 , 126 , acrobats. See entertainers, dancers, and acrobats, female 282n230 Acropolis, Athens. See Athenian Acropolis ancient Greek dress. See Greek dress Adikia, represented in vase painting, 86 Andania inscription, 215 , 216 Aegina: late Archaic temple of Aphaia on, 282n231 ; pins Andromache (Euripides), 254n51 used to blind sole survivor of military expedition to, animal-head terminals, pennanular bracelets with (fi g. 101–102 , 130–131 5.13), 150 Aeschines, 116 , 225 , 280n200 animal skins worn as clothing, 120 , 282n228 , 282n229 Aeschylus, 100 , 135 Anthesteria, Athens, 38 , 43 , 96 , 122 , 150 , 153 , age: bodies of older adults, 47–48 ; coming of age, dress 222 , 244n47 associated with, 199–204 ; cosmetics used to look Antiphanes, 64 , 258n95 younger, 259n114 ; facial hair refl ecting, 76 ; hairstyles Apatouria, Athens, 38 , 204 , 207 , 244n51 and hair color refl ecting, 70–74 ; identity, dress as Aphrodite: “Crouching Aphrodite,” 184 , 292n157 , marker of, 28–29 , 240n109 ; life expectancy in ancient 311n61 ; Kallipygos (“of the beautiful buttocks”), Greece, 47 ; naked older adults, 181 ; overweight, aging 305n110 ; of Melos, 186 ; partial nudity of, 186 , 192 ; hetairai, depictions of, 56 ; transition rituals between “Slipper-slapper” sculpture of Pan and, 297n272 . life-stages, 38 , 43 ; walking-sticks, 170 See also Knidian Aphrodite Agora, Athens. See Athenian Agora Aphthonetos and Philobrotos, locks of hair dedicated to Agora Chaireas Painter, red-fi gure cup, 303n81 Poseidon (fi g. 7.5) by, 204 aidos, 45 , 156 , 157 , 247n103 , 302n57 Apollodorus (historian), 34 Aiora, 43 Apollodorus (painter), red-fi gure akatia, 163 kylix, 264n205 Akrotiri, Thera, wall-paintings from, 93 apoptygma, 100 Alcibiades, 274n69 apotropaic aspects of male undress, 179 Alexander the Great, 5 , 263n190 Apoxyomenos (Scraper) of Lysippos, 255n59 Alma-Tadema, Sir Lawrence, Sappho and Alcaeus (1881; archaeological evidence: belts, 286n55 ; diet and, 55 ; fi g. 0.1), 1 garment fasteners, 128 ; jewelry, 142 , 146 , 150 , 151 ; Amasis Painter: black-fi gure lekythos (fi g. 4.1), 91 , 223 ; mirrors, 166 ; perfume residues, 63 , 65 , 258n102 ; as black-fi gure olpe, 273n52 source, 8–9 ; stylistic variations, social meaning of, Amazons, 111 , 120 , 282n228 25–27 . See also specifi c fi nds Amorgos and Amorgian chitones, 91 Archaic and Classical periods: dress theory in, 10 ; Ampharete, grave stele of, 47 limitation of study to, 5 ; undress, classical perspectives Amphidromia, 38 on, 173–174 amulets, 152–154 ; on arm-band of Knidian Aphrodite, Argive Heraion, 219 151 ; baskania or amulet-strings, 153 , 199 ; children Argive type peplos, 103 and infants wearing, 153 , 199 ; Cypriot temple-boys Aristodikos kouros (fi g. 2.4), 40 , 81 , 265n216 351 © in this web service Cambridge University Press www.cambridge.org Cambridge University Press 978-1-107-05536-0 - Body, Dress, and Identity in Ancient Greece Mireille M. Lee Index More information 352 INDEX Aristophanes: Acharnians, 65 , 262n161 , 264n199 , 265n215 ; Bacchae (Euripides), 64 , 261n144 Assemblywomen, 64 , 76 , 78 , 79–81 , 258n96 , 259n114 , back-mantle, 119 , 202 , 223 264n199 ; Birds, 115 , 262n170 ; on chitones, 109 , 278n153 ; Ba ï f, Lazare de, 11 Clouds, 41 , 66 , 74 , 260n132 , 262n170 ; depilation, on Bain, D. M., 81 punishment of male adulterers by, 81 ; dietary evidence barbarians. See ethnicity from, 55 ; eguklon in works of, 119 ; Ekklesiazousai, Barber, Elizabeth, 17 , 282n230 264n199 ; Frogs, 65 , 264n199 ; Knights, 65 , 74 , 262n170 ; Barcan, Ruth, 176 , 182 Lysistrata, 43 , 64–65 , 66 , 79 , 91 , 98 , 162 , 164 , 200 , Barker, Albert Winslow, “Domestic Costumes of the 258n94 , 280n185 , 291n147 , 307n152 ; Peace, 65 ; textual Athenian Woman in the Fifth and Fourth Centuries evidence from, 7 ; Wasps, 74 , 262n170 ; Wealth, 153 , B.C.” (1922; fi g. 1.3), 14 252n13 , 259n114 , 265n215 ; Women at the Thesmophoria Barthes, Roland, 18 , 20 , 24 , 237n61 , 237n62 (Thesmophoriazusae), 65 , 70 , 99 , 117 , 165 , 169 , 263n186 , baskania or amulet-strings, 153 , 199 265n215 basket-bearers (kanephoroi), 45 , 119 , 168 , 201 , 223 , 247n97 , Aristotle: bodies in ancient Greece and, 36 , 37 , 38 , 308n17 242n21 , 242n23 , 243n43 ; on body-modifi cation, Bassae, centauromachy from temple of Apollo 69 , 75 ; on garments, 91 , 116 ; as textual source, 7 ; on Epikourios (fi g. 6.6) at, 6 , 106 , 190 undress, 176 Bassi, Karen, 181 Arkteia, Brauron, 44 , 59 , 138 , 144 , 185 , bathing: as body-modifi cation, 60–62 , 66 , 260n140 ; of 200 , 254n49 brides, 208 ; of cult statues, 220 ; of dead body, 227 ; arm-bands and bracelets, 149–151 gender diff erences, 61–62 ; mother and infant, fi rst bath armor. See military dress of, 312n89 ; of mourners, 228 ; as ritual practice, 220 aromata, 62–66 battlefi eld injuries, 82 arrephoroi, 43 , 223 , 308n7 Beaumont, Leslie A., 243n41 , 244n57 art, evidence for Greek dress in, 5–7 . See also specifi c types bell-corselet, 137 of art, e.g. sculpture belts, 134–139 , 278n147 ; archaeological evidence, 286n55 ; Artemidorus, 260n135 cheirodotos chiton fastened with, 122 ; chiton fastened Artemis: bridal dedications to, 207 . See also Brauron ; with, 106 ; cross-bands, 137–139 ; exomis fastened with, Ephesos 112 ; kestos or kestos himas, 138 ; marriage and, 134 , 136 , aryballoi, 169 , 253n35 207 ; peplos fastened with, 100 , 103 , 106 , 276n122 ; as Asklepios, sanctuaries of, 220 , 266n237 signifi cant feature of feminine dress, 128–134 ; social Assemblywomen (Aristophanes), 64 , 76 , 78 , 79–81 , 258n96 , context and meaning, 135–136 , 137–139 ; Stupka 259n114 , 264n199 typology, 286n47 ; tasseled zone, 286n51 , 288n83 ; Å str ö m, Paul, 16 terminology for, 134 ; zone, 135–136 ; zoster, 136–137 Astyages (Median ruler), 68 Bennett, Michael, 135 , 137 Athena, peplos dedicated to, 44 , 192 , 218 , 222–223 , B é rard, Claude, 86 273n50 , 276n119 , 313n119 . See also Panathenaia Berber brides, 311n68 Athenaeus, 64 , 187 Berger, John, 175 Athenian Acropolis: Athena Nike temple, Nike untying Berlin goddess, 307n147 her sandal on balustrade of (fi g. 6.8), 163 , 196 , 215 ; Berlin kore, 281n222 Erechtheion, kanephoroi parthenoi on (fi g. 7.4), 45 , 203 , Bieber, Margarete, Griechische Kleidung (1928; fi g. 1.5), 247n97 , 308n20 ; korai from, 14 , 70 , 93 , 109 , 133 , 163 , 15–16 , 18–19 272n46 , 286n38 , 290n112 ; stelai inventorying pregnancy- Biers, William, 65 related garment dedications, 213 ; wreaths dedicated, Birds (Aristophanes), 115 , 262n170 in treasure-records of, 290n116 . See also Brauronion Biton and Kleobis (twin kouroi from Delphi), 163 inscriptions from Parthenon, Athens black and dark colors associated with death and Athenian Agora: choes, red-fi gure (fi g. 2.3), 38 , 43 , 122 , mourning, 215 , 228 , 312n100 150 , 153 , 199 , 244n50 , 290n121 , 291n137 , 302n60 ; red- Bloomer, Amelia, 240n104 fi gure cup by Agora Chaireas Painter, 303n81 ; Simon Blundell, Sue, 164 the (shoemaker), 161 Boardman, John, 82 , 151 , 304n98 Athens: Anthesteria, 38 , 43 , 96 , 122 , 150 , 153 , 222 , bodies in ancient Greece, 3 , 33–53 ; adult females (gynai), 244n47 ; Apatouria, 38 , 204 , 207 , 244n51 ; geopolitical 46 ; adult male citizens, 37–38 , 40–42 ; barbarians bias towards evidence from, 5 ; Koureion, 38 , 204 ; (foreigners), 48 , 49–51 ; boys, 38–40 ; disabled persons, oschophoria, 204 , 309n26 ; perfumery in, 64 , 257n89 ; 51 ; draped garments, relationship of body to, 238n76 ; Solon, dress laws of, 64 , 225 , 257n89 ; temple sculptures epheboi, 40 , 52 , 244n57 ; girls, 43–44 ; ideal/normative from, 6 . See also Panathenaia (male) bodies, 37–42 , 245n63 ; indeterminate (female) athletics. See exercise and athletics bodies, 42–46 ; modern perspectives on the body and, Attic type peplos, 103 , 136 51–53 ; in mythology, 34–35 , 241n4 ; non-ideal bodies, aural component of bracelet-wearing, 151 46–51 ; older adults, 47–48 ; parthenoi, 45 ; in © in this web service Cambridge University Press www.cambridge.org Cambridge University Press 978-1-107-05536-0 - Body, Dress, and Identity in Ancient Greece Mireille M. Lee Index More information INDEX 353 philosophical and medical treatises, 35–37 , 45 , brooches: buttons distinguished from, 133–134 ; fi bulae 242n15 ; servants and slaves, 41 , 49 ; sex workers, (safety-pins; fi g. 5.2), 132–133 female, 48–49 Brown, G. B., 235n30 the body as dress, 4 , 172–197 , 231 ; accidental bodily Brummel Bryan (Beau), 235n18 display, 192 ; art historical perspectives on, 175–176 ; burials. See death and mourning classical perspectives on, 173–174