© Lonely Planet Publications 98 www.lonelyplanet.com FEDERATED STATES OF MICRONESIA •• Climate & When to Go 99 Federated States of CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO TAB1 Temperatures on all FSM islands average FEDERATED STATES OF MICRONESIA FACTS TAB1 26°C to 27°C (80°F to 81°F) year round. The wettest months are in late spring and sum- Micronesia Capital city (and island): Palikir mer; rainfall is heaviest on Pohnpei, where (Pohnpei) the interior gets as much as 10,000mm an- nually, making it one of the rainiest places Population: 108,105 on earth. Yap is the driest island. For more Land area: 702 sq km Often referred to as ‘Micronesia’, the Federated States of Micronesia (FSM) is often assumed climatic information, see p827 . International telephone code: %691 to be simply another island agglomeration, like the Northern Mariana Islands perhaps, with a The FSM is outside classic typhoon shared cultural identity. Yet the FSM tag is an arbitrary construct, lumping together the four tracks; on Kosrae strong storms are rare, Currency: US dollar (US$) STATES FEDERATED OF MICRONESIA TAB3 TAB4 unique states of Kosrae, Pohnpei, Chuuk and Yap; about the only element they share is a his- although the other states are not immune Languages: English and state languages tory of oppression and occupation under various colonial powers. from them. Greeting: Lotu wo; Kaselehie; Ran In July 2002, Supertyphoon Chataan hit annim; Mogethin (‘Hello’ in Kosraean; The four states have distinct cultures, traditions and identities, as colourful and diverse as the Chuuk. Thirty-seven people died and al- Pohnpeian; Chuukese; Yapese) multitudes of coral formations that live in their fringing reefs. Chuuk is renowned for its wreck most 1300 people lost their homes, while Website: www.visit-fsm.org diving – explore an underwater WWII ‘museum’ that’s hailed as one of the world’s ultimate enormous crop damage caused debilitating OF MICRONESIA aquatic experiences; Yap is the most traditional state, resisting the onslaught of Western mores food shortages. FEDERATED STATES FEDERATED with true island spirit; Kosrae is a Pacific paradise, possibly the FSM’s most beautiful island; while In April 2004, Yap was hit by Super- typhoon Sudal, which destroyed or damaged Retribution & Massacres Pohnpei is home to mysterious ancient ruins and a plethora of lush landforms. just about every building on the atoll; one Early attempts to settle Yap were half-hearted Travellers looking to experience a variety of lifestyles are in luck. Kosraeans are true believers; person died, 1500 people were left home- at best. In 1731 a Spanish Jesuit mission was Kosrae is a state where everything shuts down on Sunday and full focus is given to vibrant less, and water, electricity and phone services established on Ulithi Atoll, but when a sup- were lost. ply ship returned a year later, it found that all-singing, all-dancing church ceremonies (with a relaxed island twist, naturally). Yap’s people the islanders had killed all the colonists. retain their culture, their skills, their architecture, their customs, their religions, their gigantic HISTORY Apparently Europeans got the hint and stone money – it’s an eternally fascinating place. Pohnpei retains its system of chiefs and clan Magic & Empires for the next 100 years their visits to Yap titles, a distant style of governance that still exerts significant social and political influence. Pottery and other archaeological finds on were few and far between. Then there’s misunderstood Chuuk – although the island is just starting to come to terms with Map Island date the earliest known Yapese Europeans sighted Kosrae at least as international tourism, the uncompromising nature of the Chuukese holds firm. settlement at around AD 200. early as 1801, but it wasn’t until 1824 that The Yapese once reigned over a scattered a Western ship finally pulled into harbour – If you can’t find something to expand your world-view in the FSM, check your pulse. empire, ranging as far north as the Mariana the French ship Coquille, captained by Islands and encompassing Chuuk to the Louis Duperrey. east. This empire was built on the powers of In 1835 Kosraeans torched the Hawai’ian magic: the Yapese employed sorcerers who ship Waverly and massacred the entire crew, HIGHLIGHTS Yap Proper were believed to have the powers to induce apparently as revenge on the sailors who had famine, sickness and typhoons. bedded island women without first getting Sample some of the Pacific’s best diving, Chuuck State Pohnpei The Saudeleurs , a tyrannical royal dyn- permission from Kosraean men. including Chuuk’s amazing WWII Kosrae wrecks ( p124 ) and Yap’s beautiful asty, ruled medieval Pohnpei; they reigned In the early 1840s relations again be- manta rays ( p131 ) from Nan Madol, an elaborate city of stone came harmonious under the reign of Chief YAP PROPER CHUUK LAGOON fortresses and temples. By 1400, stratified Awane Lapalik I, who was known as ‘Good Explore Kosrae’s Lelu ruins ( p105 ) and Manta Rays WWII Wrecks Kosrae was unified under one paramount King George’ by visiting Westerners. Pohnpei’s ancient stone city, Nan Madol chief, who ruled from the island of Lelu. ( p114 ), for a taste of island mystery There are indications that Kosrae was Suppression & Rebellion Marvel at Yap’s enormous stone-money Stone-Money also once an important power in the re- Diseases spread by visiting Westerners took Banks banks ( p130 ) for a well-preserved gion. Pohnpeian legend says that around their toll on Pohnpei; the indigenous pop- glimpse into traditional Yapese values the 14th century, Kosraean warriors sailed ulation dropped from 10,000 in the early POHNPEI ISLAND KOSRAE STATE Stroll around Kolonia ( p111 ), a vibrant, to Pohnpei and overthrew the Saudeleurs. 19th century to 5000 by century’s end. ramshackle hub that’s also the FSM’s Chuukese legend says that around the 14th The Spanish began to occupy Pohnpei Kolonia TAB5 biggest town Lelu Ruins century the great leader Sowukachaw came in 1886, following the papal arbitration Hiking by canoe to Chuuk with his son Sowooniiras; that gave Spain authority over the Caro- TAB5 Hike around the lush volcanic TAB4 swells of TAB3 Nan Madol where they really came from is anybody’s line Islands. They didn’t receive a hos- Hiking Pohnpei ( p109 ) and Kosrae ( p103 ) for guess, but most people put their money on pitable welcome. Three months after his joyous outdoor vibes Kosrae since in Chuuk (as in Pohnpei) there arrival, Pohnpei’s first Spanish governor are many legends relating to Kosrae. was killed in a rebellion by Pohnpeians 100 FEDERATED STATES OF MICRONESIA •• History www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com FEDERATED STATES OF MICRONESIA •• The Culture 101 0 400 km FEDERATED STATES OF MICRONESIA 0 250 miles TAB1 140ºE 145ºE 150ºE 155ºE 160ºE TAB1 10ºN Fais Yap Proper Ulithi Atoll Gaferut HALL ISLANDS N O R T H P A C I F I C O C E A N ὄὄὄὄ ὄNamonuito EastὄMurilo Atoll Ngulu Atoll Faraulep Atoll Fayu Atoll West Fayu Sorol Atoll Atoll Pikelot Nomwin Atoll Olimarao Lamotrek Tol See Weno Island Atoll Map (p122) Oroluk Atoll Woleai Atoll Pulap Atoll Pakin Atoll Ifalik Satawal Puluwat Atoll Atoll STATES FEDERATED Atoll Elato Tonoas Mokil Atoll Nama OF MICRONESIA TAB3 TAB4 WESTERN Chuuk Pohnpei Atoll Eauripik Atoll ISLANDS Lagoon Losap Atoll Ant Atoll Pingelap Atoll ὄὄὄὄ ὄPulusuk ὄὄὄ Atoll MORTLOCK ISLANDS See Yap State Map (p126) Namoluk Atoll Sapwuafik Atoll Lukunor Atoll See Kosrae State Etal Atoll Map (p104) Satawan 5ºN Atoll OF MICRONESIA YAP CHUUK POHNPEI KOSRAE FEDERATED STATES FEDERATED ὄὄNukuoroὄ Atoll N O R T H P A C I F I C O C E A N Kapingamarangi Atoll Equator protesting the use of forced native labour for noncooperation the Japanese would lagoon and sank some 60 ships, which lie Lifestyle to build Spanish forts. smash pieces of Yap’s highly valued rai on the bottom today.ὄ On Kosrae, traditionally, everything closes The Germans arrived in 1899 after buy- (stone money), sometimes using the broken In July 1978 the Trust Territory districts of on Sunday and church becomes the only ing the Carolines from the Spanish. The pieces as road fill. Pohnpei, Kosrae, Chuuk, Yap, the Marshall activity. The service includes prayers, a ser- infamous 1910–11 Sokehs Rebellion was During WWII, US forces decided not to Islands and Palau voted on a common con- mon, hymns, glorious choral singing and sparked when a German overseer beat a invade Yap Proper, although they bombed stitution. The Marshalls and Palau rejected it psalm readings. Attending is a fine way to Pohnpeian working on a labour gang on the island during air raids. Ulithi Atoll was and went on to establish separate countries. experience local culture. Sokehs Island. The Pohnpeians killed the captured and developed into a major Allied What was left became, by default, the Most people in Kosrae still rely on sub- overseer and the revolt was on. support base in 1944. Federated States of Micronesia. sistence farming and fishing for their liveli- The Germans promised revenge, block- On Kosrae, developments in agriculture, hood, as they do in Chuuk, where the main ading Kolonia and sending Melanesian forestry, fishing and copra helped support THE CULTURE crops are breadfruit, coconuts, bananas and troops charging up Sokehs Ridge. The the Japanese war effort during WWII. Allied The National Psyche taro. Copra production provides some local uprising was suppressed and the 17 rebel forces never invaded Kosrae. Given that the FSM as a ‘nation’ is a political income. leaders were executed and thrown into a At the beginning of WWII there were rather than a cultural construct, it’s hard to Each Chuukese island has a predominant mass grave.