LEGACY CINEMATIC SPLENDOR The historic royal jewels portrayed in Netflix drama The Crown are the subject of an exhibit on the show’s costumes. BY PHYLLIS SCHILLER et against a backdrop of dramatic which deals with Queen Elizabeth world events and pivotal private II’s coronation; “Dressing the Part,” moments, the first two seasons of showing how the series’ costumes the popular Netflix original series replicate historical ones; “Creating The Crown follows the journey of Character,”which focuses on fictionalized Princess Elizabeth as she assumes private moments; and “Capturing the Sthe mantle of queen. The elaborate Image,” a look at the royal family in iconic costumes play a major part in setting the moments from official portraiture and stage for the story, and the accompanying televised events. jewels lend it glitteringly realistic detail. With a third season scheduled to Setting the stage come out later this year, 40 of the show’s Tiaras account for much of the jewelry costumes and the royal-jewelry replicas on display, which also includes replicas of that go with them are on display at the Elizabeth’s diamond, ruby and sapphire Winterthur Museum, Garden & Library coronation ring and other coronation Replica of St. Edward’s Crown, which is used exclusively to — the former home of collector Henry regalia. While these iconic jewels help crown a monarch. Francis du Pont in Winterthur, Delaware. enhance the historical aspects, other Titled “Costuming The Crown,” pieces further the development of the the exhibition highlights the work of characters in the fictionalized scenes. By Michele Clapton and Jane Petrie, the using brooches and simple pearl necklaces series’ costume designers for seasons the characters might have worn at the one and two, respectively. “Essentially, time, the designers add another layer of the exhibition focuses on the work of the believability, says the co-curator. Actress Claire Foy portraying the young Queen Elizabeth II, wearing replicas of the designers in helping to create this story One real-to-reel moment where jewelry George IV diadem and Order of the Garter insignia. and the characters themselves. So much helps authenticate the costume is a scene of it is about getting history right,” says showing Queen Mary at home. “She’s Winterthur exhibitions manager Kim wearing a beaded dress in the Edwardian Collison, who co-curated the event along style she was known to wear, adorned with with Linda Eaton, director of collections, a replica of the diamond bow and heart and estate historian Jeff Groff. diamond brooch given to her in 1893 as a There are four sections in the exhibition, wedding gift from her husband, the Duke IMAGES: ALEX BAILEY/NETFLIX; WINTERTHUR MUSEUM, GARDEN & LIBRARY MUSEUM, GARDEN WINTERTHUR ALEX BAILEY/NETFLIX; IMAGES: continues Collison: “Establishing Roles,” of York,” says Collison. ▶ 50 AUGUST 2019 DIAMONDS.NET DIAMONDS.NET AUGUST 2019 51 LEGACY A TIME FOR TIARAS iaras — glittery, semicircular headpieces that the queen and other married women would Twear for formal occasions — are a key part of the royal family’s Replicas of the Cambridge Lover’s Knot Tiara and Queen Alexandra’s Kokoshnik Tiara. costumes in The Crown. Differing from an actual crown, which is a full circle, many of the tiaras in the “Costuming The The exhibition also shows clips featuring Crown” exhibit have a built-in particular costumes. “One of my favorites versatility, according to co-curator is a fictionalized scene where Princess Kim Collison. “These tiaras came Margaret is selecting a tiara to wear when apart to become necklaces and she is to speak to ambassadors,” says “INCLUDED IS brooches.” Collison. Margaret pushes the limits of her One such is the classic King place in the royal hierarchy by choosing THE CAMBRIDGE George III Fringe Tiara that then- the Cambridge Lover’s Knot Tiara. Princess Elizabeth (now Queen “These fictionalized moments emphasize LOVER’S KNOT Elizabeth II) wore at her wedding; it the narrative of Margaret’s jealousy of TIARA, A FAVORITE can turn into a necklace. It was Elizabeth’s role,” Collison explains. actually her “something borrowed,” OF PRINCESS DIANA since it belonged to her mother at Pomp and circumstance the time, says Collison. Elizabeth The show’s reenactment of Elizabeth’s AND ONE WE SEE later loaned it to her own daughter, 1953 coronation glows with jeweled KATE MIDDLETON Princess Anne, for her wedding day. accents, particularly the three historically Another convertible tiara with a significant crowns she wears. Two of them WEAR TODAY” rich history, Queen Alexandra’s are part of the exhibition: St. Edward’s Kokoshnik Tiara, was a gift from Crown and the George IV Diadem. The Queen Alexandra to Queen Mary, former, which dates to 1661, was made who gifted it to Elizabeth. Queen for the coronation of Charles II and is the Elizabeth has the largest collection one used exclusively to crown a monarch. IV were turned into a brooch that was of tiaras in the world, many of which The latter is the one Elizabeth wore on the often worn by Queen Mary, including on she inherited, notes Collison. procession into Westminster Abbey. The the marriages of all her children and at “Included is the Cambridge Lover’s third, which does not appear in the exhibit, Princess Elizabeth’s wedding. On the latter Knot Tiara, which was a favorite of is the Imperial State Crown, which the occasion, Queen Mary, known for wearing Princess Diana and one that we see queen wore out of Westminster Abbey. layers of jewelry, is shown wearing pearls Kate Middleton wear today.” Also represented is the Cullinan and other diamonds, including an Order of Like most of the jewelry in the diamond, which was found in South Africa the Garter star.” exhibition, the tiaras were created in 1905 and features in several of the Collison hopes “that visitors to the by Juliette Designs, Collison says. crown jewels. King Edward VII received exhibition can see and understand the role “The firm specializes in recreating it as a gift from the government of the costume design played in not only telling a royal jewelry using base metals, Transvaal Colony. “The largest rough story, but in bringing history to life.” Swarovski crystals and cubic diamond ever mined, it was cut into several zirconia, based on detailed stones,” recounts Collison. “The Cullinan “Costuming The Crown” will be on view at descriptions in a book issued by I is part of the sovereign’s scepter, a replica the Winterthur Museum, Garden & Library [UK government publisher] The of which is shown. The Cullinan III and through January 5, 2020. winterthur.org ◼ Stationery Office.” & LIBRARY MUSEUM, GARDEN WINTERTHUR IMAGES: 52 AUGUST 2019 DIAMONDS.NET.