\ y I I m r : TFIE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OP EOXBURGHSHIRE AND ADJACENT DISTRICTS, FROM THE MOST REMOTE TO THE PRESENT TIME. BY ALEXANDER JEFFREY, AUTHOR or "GUIDE TO THE ANTIQUITIES OF THE BOEDER," ic. ^ccontJ (Soitton. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. L J E'D B U R G H WALTER EASTON, ABBEY-PLACE. JEDBVRGII: rKI.STKT) UT W.r.A?TO>-. PREFACE. The design of the present Work is to convey to the public, within a reasonable compass, all the information I have been enabled to gather, during a period of twentj-five years, in relation to the History and Antiquities of Roxburghshire and adjacent Districts. Since the publication of the First Edition,, in 1836, the Work has been entirely re-written, and, with the exception of i. small portion of the descriptions of the Abbeys in Teviotdale, no part of the Contents of the present Volume were included in that edition. It may, there- fore, with truth, be stated to be an entirely New Work. No pains have been spared by me to obtain correct information in I'egard to the subjects treated of. Added to the know- ledge which a long residence in the district necessarily gives, I have specially visited every spot of interest, and examined for myself all the remains of a bye-gone age within the localities referred to. The works of all those who have previously laboured in the same field I have carefully con- sulted, and, while making a free use of their views when I thought them right, I have not scrupled to express an oppo- site opinion when I thought they had been led into error. Notwithstanding I have done all that I could to render the Work accurate, errors Avill, no doubt, be found on perusal, but it is to be trusted these will be few and unimportant. IV PREFACE. To the Rev. James Duncan, Denliolm, I am ijidebted for the Chapter on tlie Geology of the District, and who, I am happy to be able to say, contributes the Botanical and Zoo- logical Chapters in Volume II. A.J. Jediiuroh, Janunry, 1855. CONTENTS OF YOLUME I. CHAPTER I. SITUATION AND OUTLINE, BOUNDARIES AND EXIKNT, DECLINATION ' AND CLIMATE. PASK The District is the Southmost Division of Scotland. Lies in Centre of British Island. By what Counties Bounded. Its Form. Its Outline. The Line of the Boundary'. Its Length and Breadth. Its Political Divisions. The Declination of the District. The Mountain Ranaies which enclose Teviotdale. The Waters which Drain this District. The General Appearance of the District from the Summit of the Duiiion. The Hill lies in the tract of Red-Sandstone. The Climate of the District, --.... 9 CHAPTER II. ITS HILLS AND VALLEYS. The Cheviot Ranc^e. Cheviot Mountain. Its Commanding Posi- tion. Chillhill. Hounamlaw. Their Situation and Qualities, The Mountains on the Bowmont and Cayle. The Mountains fit the Source of the Jed. On the March between Dumfries and Roxburgh. The height of these Mountains, and General Appearance. The Range of Mountains which divide Teviotdale and Liddesdale. Pass through the Mountains at Mosspaui. Its Beauty. Peculiar Feature of the Hills of the Cheviot Range. Mountains and Hills in the Interior of Teviotdale. Dunion, its Name and Appearance. Was a Watch Tower in the Early Daj's. Penielheugh, its Appearance and Position. Its Name. Enchant- ing Prospect from its Summit. Monument to Wellington, and British Troops on its top. Ruberslaw, its Height and Situation, ifinow Storm on it, supposed to have suggested to the Poet Thomson the idea of his Poem of Winter. Peden and Welsh Preached on its sides. Miiito Craigs, their Appearance and VI CONTF.NTS. PACK Hc'ifflit. BarnhiU's Bed. Mintn Hills. Mountiins in the Nor- thern p;irt of Tcviotchile. The Eildoiis Three. TheAp|iearance aiui Character of these Hills. Blackliill, the Brilish Ary.silduii. BemersiJe Hill. Williamlaw, between Leader and Gala. No- tices of that District. Contests of the Swinelierds. Other Hills worthjof notice, on account of their preservation of Name. Ge- neral Observations on the Cheviot Hills, 18 CHAPTER Til. ITS tOCHS AND RlYEKS. Primside, and Linton Lochs. Stratmn of Marl in the latter. Hose- law Loch. Locality famed as beinpf Scene of the Exploit of the First of the .Somervilles. Canldsliiels, near Abbotsford. Hinilly Burn rises from it. Whitniuir Loch, on the bounds of Selkirk- shire. The Rivers and Streams. The Tweed. From whence it derives its name. Place where it enters the District. The Lenffth of its Course within the District. Scenery on the River where it passes Abbotsford. The Tweed at Brida^end. The place where Father Philip crossed with the Lady of Avenel. Places and Scenery on the River Course within the District. The Sal- mon Fishina;s in the River. Tlie Statute regulating the Tweed Fishings. The River Teviot, its Rise and Name. Places and Scenery on its course. It is visited by Salmon and Trout. The Scottish Lyrists, by whom River and Sceneiy are noticed. The Cavi.e. Origin of its Name, Scencrj-, and Localities in its course. Observations on its Running Westward. Conical Mounts at Linton Kirk and Linton Loch. Theory as to their Formation, and also as to the Course of the River. Ox nam, its Source, Course, and Scenery through which it passes. The Henwood. Rattling Roaring \Villie. The Jkd. From whence Name de- rived. Its Source. Scenery on its Banks as it passes Mossburn- ford, Lintalee, and .Jedburgh. Caves. The Nature of the Channel of the .Ted. Its Passage through the Old Red Sandstone Formation. Salmon and Trout. The Reason of the Scarcity ol Trout. The RiTLF, its Name, Source, and Course. SLixnie. Observations as to the Etymology of the Name. Hawick Flood in 1*01. The Tradilicm of the District in regard to the Flood. Flood in 1M6. The Allan. Its Source and Name. The Proximity of the Somces of the Rivers which Rise in the Sou- thern Mountains to each oilier. Tributaries of the Teviot on the North. The BoiiTHwiCK. Its .Sonne and Name. The .\le. Its Rise and Name. Its Course by Riddell, Linthill, and Cavers. COXTENTS. Vll Beauly of its Banks behveen Ashyburn and Ancnim. Caves. Superstitions of tlie District as to the Lake from which River takes its Rise. Poets vvbo have sung of Ale. The Bow.moxt. Its Sources and Course. Observations as to the Orio^in of the Name. The Eden- Etymology of the Name. Its Course. The Leader. Rises in the Soltra, and its Course by Earlston and Cowdenknovves. Remarks on the Derivation of the Name. Notices of Thomas the Rhymer, who lived on its Banks. The Alwyn. Its Rise and Name. The Valley of the River is thought to be the Glendearg of the Monastery. The Gala. Its Source, and Origin of the Name. The Lidoel. Its Rise, Course, and Observations on its Name. Armstrong the Poet, a Native of its banks. The Hermitage. Its Piise and Scenery on its Banks. Kershope. The Ancient Boundary between England and Scotland. Other Smaller Streams and Burns. The Goblin-Brook or Bogleburn. Woodenburn. Flood of 1782 —of 1*97, which carried away Kelso Bridge. The Teviot Stop- ping in its Course. The Changes which have taken place in the Distiict, deduced from the State of Communication with each side of the Rivers of the District. Observations thereon. Acci- dent at Melrose Ferry about 1735. The Bridges on the Rivers. The Fords of the Rivers. Number of Corn Mills on these Streams in ancient times. The Springs of the District. Chaly- beate and Sulphureous. Consecrated Wells. Springs around Melrose and Jedburgh, -------- 28 CHAPTER IV. ITS ANCIENT APPBAEANCE. It was Originally covered with Woods and Lochs. Evidence derived from Ancient Historians. From Trees found in the Mosses. From Medals and Coins of Romans found buried below Moss in a fertile soil. Jedburgh Forest. Jed derives its Name from its Woods. Woody state shewn from the Names of Places on Jed and Rule. In the Oxnam District. On the Cayle. On the Teviot. In Names of Places in the District between Leader and Gala. In Liddesdale, from names there. From Articles found in MosseSj Marshes, and Lochs. From Evidence derived from Charters. The introduction of Coal into the District. The Boggy state of Kingdom proved from Names of Places. The Names of Places, also instruct the kind of Animals which roamed in it. Tradition as to these. Remains of Animals found in District, --- ...§3 Viii CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. ITS GF. OLOGT. P. The Divisions of Scotlnnd in rel'erence to its Geoloc;}-. Observations thereon. The Kxternal Aspect of the District viewed in refer- ence to its Geolon;)-. Form of the Greywacke Hills. The Insulated Heights are generally Trap. Greywacke the most extensive Deposits of the District. Parts of the District which it Occupies. What is Comprehended under Gre3-wacke. 3Iodifications in its Character. It is Uniform in the District. Its Colour. Where the Greywacke and the Red Sandstone Meet. The Clayslate. Its Composition and Colour. Colour at Rink near Edgerston. Stratification. Dip. Examples of these. The Strata of the Greywacke forms the Summit of the High Ridges on the Sources oftheTeviot. Flexures and Contortions Exhibited by it. Sup- posed Cause of these. Minerals in Connexion with this Forma- tion. Calcareous Sjmr and Quartz. Character of these. This Formation Poor in Organic Remains. Where Remains are Found. The Pelibles in Bed of Teviot are chiefly Greywacke. The "Silver Tide" of Teviot arises from Ruiniing over Grey- wacke. The Rock of this Formation iisetl as Road Metal and Building. Its Character lor these Purposes. The Old Rbd Sandstone Formation. Where the Conglomerate is seen.