©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Arles & the Camargue Includes ¨ Why Go? Arles . 180 Forget all about time in this hauntingly beautiful part of Camargue Provence roamed by black bulls, white horses and pink Countryside . .. 186 flamingos. This is slow-go Provence, a timeless wetland Stes-Maries- chequered with silver salt pans, waterlogged rice paddies de-la-Mer . 189 and movie-style cowboys. Birds provide the most action on this 780-sq-km delta wedged between the Petit Rhône and Grand Rhône. Grab your binoculars, squat in a shack be- tween bulrushes and know, as another flamingo flits across the setting sun, that these magnificent waters, steeped in legend and lore, have a soul of their own. Best Places to Eat The main town of the region, diminutive Arles, is a ¨ L’Atelier (p185) show-stopper. Wander the narrow golden-hued streets that ¨ Le Gibolin (p185) inspired Van Gogh and find the town’s lovely restored Ro- man amphitheatre, top-notch art and history museums, and ¨ Le Mazet du Vaccarès world-class restaurants. It’ll be hard to tear yourself away. (p189) ¨ La Telline (p189) ¨ La Cabane aux Coquillages (p190) Driving Distances (km) Best Places Le Sambuc 15 to Stay Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer 61 59 ¨ Le Cloître (p184) La Capelière 22 13 41 ¨ L’Hôtel Particulier (p184) Aigues-Mortes 70 62 33 56 ¨ Hôtel de l’Amphithéâtre Arles 38 31 37 21 51 (p183) ¨ Lodge Sainte Hélène d e (p190) ¨ Le Mas de Peint (p188) Salin de Girau Le Sambuc Stes-Maries -de-la-Mer La Capelièr Aigues-Mortes 178 #– Nîmes Nîmes D Arles & the (9km) Airport Camargue Highlights 1 Discover Roman Arles (p180), trail Van Gogh and enjoy Le Moulin #\ some of Provence’s des Costières finest restaurants. 2 Watch rose- /· pink flamingos at D42 the wondrous Parc St-Gilles #\ Ornithologique 6666 du Pont de Gau e (p186) . à Sète n ône ô Rh h 3 l du Spot local flora na R Ca t i and fauna from the t e trails around La P Capelière (p187) 6666 and Salin de Badon . 4 Pick a fine restaurant to try near /· Le Sambuc (p189) . D58 Parc Naturel #\ Régional de 5 Gallop like the La Grande- Montcalm Camargue wind on a horse trek Motte (4km) #\ Aigues- #÷ D 6666 Mortes at Domaine de la #æ Château Mas de d'Avignon Palissade (p187) . Sylvéréal #\ 0¸D570 ARLES & THE C THE & ARLES 6 Bike along the /·D38 #\ edge of the world Le Grau-du-Roi Rte de l Pioch #\ Cacharel #\ éa to a 19th-century Port- er lv Badet lighthouse on the Camargue 6666Sy ‚ de 0¸D85A al Digue à la Mer Can (p187) . Les Cabanes Ø# de Cacharel Parc Ornithologique 7 Birdwatch on the #÷2 A Étang de Vaccarès du Pont de Gau 0¸D85A M L’Auberge ÿ# A (p186) then dine with RGUE RGUE lighthouse keepers 6666Cavalière Petite Camargue /·D38 at legendary Le #8 Mazet du Vaccarès ARLE Stes-Maries- (p189) . de-la-Mer 8 Follow in the S & THE C THE & footsteps of pilgrims to Stes-Maries-de- 6666 la-Mer (p189) and its hallowed church . AMA RGUE RGUE H M E D I T E R R A N E A N S E A IGHLIGHT S.