Ayrshire LarderTHE GUIDE TO THE FOOD & DRINK OF AYRSHIRE & ARRAN With miles of unspoilt coastline and acres of farmland, it’s no secret that Ayrshire is famous for its award-winning Scottish food and drink, such as quality Ayrshire bacon, Ayrshire potatoes, freshly caught seafood, locally brewed beers, deliciously creamy cheese and even creamier ice cream, to mention just a few. When exploring this stunning region, you can experience the finest natural produce that Ayrshire has to offer by dining in the restaurants and cafés, visiting local producers and enjoying a trip to one of the farmers’ markets. As well as the fine Ayrshire food and drink on offer, you can sample the stunning coastal views at many of the restaurants and hotels. Take time to delve into the region’s rich heritage at the many popular attractions from captivating castles and ancient standing stones to stately country houses and memorable museums. So whether you are seeking the fine-dining experience of a Michelin-starred restaurant, the chance to improve your cookery skills or simply enjoying fish and chips at the harbourside or participating in a whisky tasting, Ayrshire and the islands of Arran and Cumbrae really do have something to satisfy all tastes. We hope you enjoy our region! Ayrshire & Arran Tourism Team Introduction AYRSHIRE PHOTO: TASTE The Ayrshire Larder Part of The Larder series of food and drink publications thelarder.net Editors Donald Reid, Jay Thundercliffe Editorial assistance Mercy Breheny, Claire Ritchie, Claire Sawers Writing & research Rowan Anderson, Steven Dick, Hannah Ewan, Kelsey Farrell, Rachel Gillon, Erica Goodey, Tiff Griffin, Malcolm s one of the most productive agricultural regions of Scotland, with its long coastline Jack, Laura Muetzelfeldt, along the Firth of Clyde and a lush, attractive interior, Ayrshire is a landscape laden David Pollock, Keith Smith A with food and drink for you to discover. Alongside the region’s famous golf courses, Design & Production historic sites and grand buildings, you can discover its well-known dairy, beef and seafood, but Simon Armin Ayrshire is also dotted with farmhouse cheesemakers, bakers, beekeepers, market gardeners, Map brewers, chocolatiers and smokehouses. Ayrshire & Arran Tourism This guide aims to tell the story of Ayrshire’s food and drink in its richness and practical Cover detail. It tells you about the food grown, made, landed and reared in Ayrshire, and just as Taste Ayrshire importantly where to find it, from local farm shops to contemporary restaurants. Independently Publishers selected to reflect the contemporary food culture of Ayrshire, this is a guide to help you find, Robin Hodge, Simon Dessain appreciate and enjoy great local food. Larder Project Director Peter Brown ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This guide has been developed by The List working in partnership with the ©2015 The List Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this Ayrshire & Arran Tourism Team and with support from Ayrshire Chamber of publication may be reproduced, Commerce and Industry and other food champions in the area including Ayrshire stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any Bed & Breakfast Association, Ayrshire Food Network, Ayrshire College, Slow means, electronic, mechanical, Food West of Scotland and Ayrshire Farmers’ Markets Association. The editors photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior would like to thank Ros Halley, Val Russell and Howard Wilkinson for their permission in writing of The List Ltd. commitment to and support for the project. This first edition published by The List Ltd 14 High Street Edinburgh EH1 1TE Tel: 0131 550 3050 list.co.uk Reprinted 2015 with minor EDITORIAL SELECTION: alterations The editorial content of all guides in The Larder series, including Ayrshire Extensive efforts have been made to ensure the accuracy of the Larder, is independently researched, written and produced by The List. These information in this publication, are consumer-oriented guides to local food and drink and all the businesses however the publishers can accept no responsibility for any and organisations are selected by The List on the basis of their editorial merit errors it may contain. and relevance. No entry in The Larder’s national and regional guides pays to be included. The Ayrshire Larder 3 Contents list.co.uk What’s in the Ayrshire Larder? There’s a lot packed into these 48 pages. Here are a few of the highlights Ice Ice Baby Cream of the crop With so many ice-cream producers in Widely considered to be the queen of the dairy scene the brown- the area, every day can be sundae. See and-white Ayrshire cow produces some of the finest milk in page 23 for more. Scotland. See page 6. Can you dig it? Chefs’ Choices The Ayrshire spud is far from humble. Find out what’s so Local chefs select their favourite produce from the special about these lauded tatties on page 18. area. See panels from page 26. 4 The Ayrshire Larder Contents Market value Dining Destination Buy the best of Ayrshire at a farmers’ Check out the best spots to sample local produce, whatever your market or head to a local food festival. style, location or budget. Listings begin on pages 35. See page 46. From Ayrshire Where to Buy A comprehensive round-up of the food From butchers and grown, farmed, made and landed in bakers to farm shops Ayrshire. See pages 21–23. and fishmongers, our list- ings start on page 26. Introduction 3 Features 6 Map 24 Where to Buy 26 Where to Eat 35 Pick of the picnic spots Farmers’ Markets & Food Events 46 Shake out your picnic blanket in the grounds of a castle or choose a Index 47 stunning coastal view. See page 45. The Ayrshire Larder 5 Dairy Cows list.co.uk How Now Brown and White Cow The iconic Ayrshire cow helps supply the region with fresh ice cream, cheese and milk. Malcolm Jack explores some of the region’s dairy delicacies he famous brown-and-white Ayrshire dairy cow 1870s, the indomitable Ayrshire’s pre-eminence in isn’t anything like as ubiquitous a sight as it its heyday led to the formation of the Ayrshire Cattle T once was, dotted across rolling green Ayrshire Society in 1877, a body which in the 21st century still pastureland in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. endeavours to keep the breed at the forefront of modern Progressively interbred with and usurped by the more dairying. Favoured for their hardiness, efficiency, good productive and thus much more common black-and- temperament and above all superior milk – so good white Holstein cow, even if they’re to be commonly it stands up to blind taste-test scrutiny against its found elsewhere in the world from Finland to New leading rivals – you’ll still find certain Ayrshire farmers Zealand, Australia and Malaysia, they’re the rare breed standing steadfastly by the Ayrshire as a breed. these days in their native land. But don’t assume we’re ‘Traditionally she has higher components within her soon to see the back of these distinctive bovines. milk, higher fat and protein,’ says Hugh Woodburn, Originally known as Dunlop and later Cunningham founder of the Woody’s Ice Cream brand and keeper of cattle and first recorded on an official basis in the a large herd of Ayrshires at Killoch Farm near Galston. 6 The Ayrshire Larder Dairy Cows ‘Market research has proven for her milk to have a of farmhouse cheeses including traditional Ayrshire superior taste to that of the black-and-white cow.’ Dunlop – a cheddar-like style that was recognised Woodburn began making ice cream approximately 12 with European PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) years ago, during a crisis for dairy farming in the UK status in 2015. when profits slumped and many farmers were forced ‘We’re not going for quantity of milk, we’re going to diversify to survive. Producing around 50 different for quality,’ she says. ‘I’m producing the milk just for flavours of fresh ice cream in small batches, often my cheese, I’m not pushing out every litre to sell to a bespoke to order, Woody’s has become a well-respected tanker every day. So we’re not looking for fast yield and recognised brand in an increasingly competitive out of these cows. We’re also looking for ones that ice-cream market in Ayrshire and the west of Scotland. can produce milk off a lower diet,’ she continues, ‘and The majority of Killoch Farm’s milk is still sold that’s what the Ayrshires were good for back in the day. to a dairy on a daily basis, but it keeps enough back Because our farm’s a bit higher up here and it’s a wee to manufacture about 40–50,000 litres of ice-cream bit less productive than some places, we’re looking for a annually. Hugh recently handed over the running of cow that’s a little bit hardier.’ Woody’s to his daughter, Jill Woodburn, allowing him For a business of Dunlop Dairy’s size, producing only to concentrate on, ahem, milking the most valuable asset as much cheese as it can sell either direct-to-customer of their business. through its own on-farm shop and tearoom, or via ‘We have all the products on hand,’ says Woodburn select local shops and delis, buying in Ayrshire cattle’s to explain Woody’s ice cream’s freshness USP. ‘The milk from another supplier isn’t really an option. ‘It’s cows are milked at six o’clock in the morning and it’s economies of scale these days,’ Dorward explains. pasteurised at nine o’clock the same morning and it’s ice ‘If we’re buying in milk, it’s coming from a big cream the next day.