Development Team Principal Investigator Prof. Farhan J Ahmad JamiaHamdard, New Delhi Dr. Vijaya Khader Former Dean, Acharya N G Ranga AgriculturalDr. Javed AliUniversity Paper Coordinator Jamia Hamdard, New Delhi Content Writer Dr. Sanjula Baboota Jamia Hamdard, New Delhi Prof. (Mrs.) Kamla Pathak Content Reviewer Professor, Pharmaceutics Pharmaceutical Cosmetics sciences Lip Care Products 0 Lip Care Products 2016 CONTENTS . Introduction . Anatomy and physiology of human lips . Types of lip care products Lip liners Lip glosses Lip salve/ balm Lipsticks . Required qualities and characteristics of lip care products . Ingredients for lip care products . Formulation . Manufacturing procedure . Packaging of lip care products . Evaluation of lipstick . Marketed lip care products LIP CARE PRODUCTS Pharmaceutical Cosmetics sciences Lip Care Products 0 Lip Care Products 2016 1. INTRODUCTION Lip care products are primarily used by women to enhance their attractiveness and femininity; however, there are products available for men as well. Products for men usually include uncolored sticks offering hydration and sun protection. In its most basic form lipstick is the mix of oils, waxes and pigments which form a mass that can easily be applied to our lips. Developing a feasible formula is not an effortless job, and for a good lipsticks a lot of time and sometimes hundreds different types of recipe is needed to make it perfect. Some of the few important properties of lipsticks are its color, opacity, fragrance, and dryness. 2. ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY OF HUMAN LIPS Human lips have a complex anatomy consisting of mucosa and skin. The outer surface of the lips is covered by epidermis and hair, sweat glands, and sebaceous glands. The skin of the face meets the mucous membrane of the mouth in a transition zone called the vermilion border. This transition zone is characterized by lightly keratinized epithelium; it does not contain hair or sweat glands. The inner surface of the lips is continuous with the oral mucosa, which is covered with non-keratinized epithelium and contains numerous tiny salivary glands. In the red area of the lip (i.e., vermilion border), cornification and pigmentation of the epithelium diminish. The red color of the border area is thought to be the result of the decreased density of keratin along with the translucency of the tissue, which allows the observer to see easily the small capillary vessels. This is the zone where makeup products are applied to. Figure 1 depicts the different parts of the lips. Pharmaceutical Cosmetics sciences Lip Care Products 1 Lip Care Products 2016 Figure 1: Structure of the human lip. Human lips have a specific shape due to the muscles and soft connective tissue of which they are made. The muscle, the so-called orbicularis oris muscle, makes a hooked curve toward the exterior at the edge of the vermilion area, which gives the lips their shape. The physical appearance of the Cupid’s bow is also caused by the configuration of the underlying muscle. The production of natural emollients is very low in the lips. In addition, it also appears to contain less water than other areas of the face and lose water faster than the cheeks. As a result, human lips can become dry and chapped easily. An interesting characteristic of the vermilion border is that it has very rapid cell turnover. This is why the lips recover very quickly if they are injured or burned. Another specific property of the lips is that they have a lot of sensory receptors and have great tactile sensitivity. According to the literature, the sensitivity of the lips is similar to that of the tongue and the fingertips. In addition to being sensitive to touch, lips are very sensitive to chemical, physical, and microbial damages as well. The fact that lips are not rich in keratinized cells and melanin significantly contributes to their sensitivity. Their prolonged exposure to sunlight may lead to visible damage, and they can be more easily infected with yeast and bacteria than other parts of the skin. Pharmaceutical Cosmetics sciences Lip Care Products 2 Lip Care Products 2016 The quality and structure of lips change over time. As a person grows older, thinning skin, loss of muscle support, changes in bone structure, bone resorption, and reductions in soft tissue volume lead to a number of changes in the perioral region (i.e., the area around the lips). The lips become flat and thin and less shapely. In addition, fine lines and deeper wrinkles develop on the upper and lower lips that may cause lip makeup products to flow into these lines from the red area of the lips; this phenomenon is usually referred to as “bleeding.” The tactile sensitivity of the lips decreases with age as well. 3. TYPES OF LIP CARE PRODUCTS There are several different types of products available in the market that can be applied to the lips for various reasons. 3.1. Lipsticks are designed to enhance the appearance of the lips by imparting color and gloss. They consist of waxes, butters, fats, oils, and hydrocarbons, which are usually referred to as the base, as well as pigments for the color. Additionally, lipsticks can contain flavors and fragrances as well as specific ingredients for ultraviolet (UV) protection and a plumping effect. 3.2. Lip salve/ balm are used to protect lips from drying during winters. These do not contain colours. Requirements of lip salves are that these should form an adherent, moisture resistant film on lips. These can be prepared from fatty materials like mineral oils, jelly and waxes. To make film more adherent a small proportion of hydrophilic material should be included in the formulation. 3.3. Lip glosses are designed to give the lips a glossy luster and, sometimes, subtle color. They usually have a lower viscosity than traditional lipsticks and are more transparent. Lip glosses consist of a higher ratio of oils and lower ratio of waxes; therefore, they are applied smoothly, have a greater shine, but do not wear as long as a lipstick does. They can be clear or translucent Pharmaceutical Cosmetics sciences Lip Care Products 3 Lip Care Products 2016 or exhibit various shades of opacity with various finishes, such as metallic, glittered, glassy, and frosted. 3.4. Lip liners are designed to redefine the outline of the lips. They consist of blends of waxes, butters, fats, and oils, similar to lipsticks; however, the finished formulation is harder and the level of pigments is slightly lower. Lip liners are most often slim pencils, or fluids encased in special “pens,” to which is attached a fine brush through which the product is dispensed. 4. REQUIRED QUALITIES AND CHARACTERISTICS OF LIP CARE PRODUCTS Attractive shades Homogeneous color when applied Good coverage Long-lasting effect Pleasant taste and smell Easy to apply UV protection (common requirement) No staining or bleeding into the fine lines surrounding the lips Provide a wet and shiny look Lip liners: have high pigment content to accent the lines of the lips, firm enough not to run into the lines around the lips Lip balms: moisturizes the lips and prevents chapping. Pharmaceutical Cosmetics sciences Lip Care Products 4 Lip Care Products 2016 5. INGREDIENTS FOR LIP CARE PRODUCTS 5.1. Coloring Materials Coloring materials are the most important components from a commercial and appearance point of view since colors set lipsticks apart in most consumers’ minds. The use of colorants is strictly controlled by the FDA, and color additives are specifically approved for the mouth area. Typically, the following types of color additives are used in colored lip care formulations such as organic colors, inorganic pigments, lakes, and specific effect pigments. Dyes are readily soluble, whereas pigments are insoluble in the medium/vehicle in which they are used. Effect pigments may include particles that provide pearlescent effect, sparkle, luster, glitter, matte, metallic, and other types of effects to lipstick formulations. Effect pigments used in lip makeup products are generally available in various colors and particle sizes. By varying the particle size of these ingredients, different effects can be achieved. Smaller particles (in the range of 20 μm) create silky and satin effects and opacify the mass. Larger-sized particles (in the range of 120 μm) reachhigh luster effects, sparkling, or glittering, combined with high brilliance and transparency. Special pigments generally do not add color to formulations in large quantity; therefore, they are usually combined with regular color additives. However, in low-color products, such as lip glosses or lip balms, they can be used alone. Examples of different pigments and colors are as follows: Inorganic pigments:-Iron oxides (red, yellow, brown, and black), titanium dioxide, and zinc oxide; Organic colors:-Reds (such as Red 6, 7, and 21), yellows (such as Yellow 6), oranges (such as Orange 5 in a concentration ≤5%) Lakes:- Red 7 Lake and Yellow 5 Lake. The most frequently used special effect pigments include micas coated with iron oxides and titanium dioxide (which can provide a sparkly or glittery effect, a soft luster, or a Pharmaceutical Cosmetics sciences Lip Care Products 5 Lip Care Products 2016 pearlescent effect depending on the coating), and bismuth oxychloride (which provides a pearlescent effect). Table 1: Percentage of colour used. Ingredients % Staining dye (bromoacids) 0-0.2 Oil soluble pigment 2 Insoluble pigment 8-10 Titanium dioxide 0-4 Pearlaceous pigment 0-20 5.2. Waxes Waxes function as structuring agents, providing lipsticks with rigidity and hardness. In addition, they stabilize the sticks and allow them to be molded into shape. By modulating waxes with different competence, like as high shine, flexibility, and brittleness, optimal cosmetic performance can be achieved. Due to unique composition and chain lengths of waxes the melting points vary widely.