01_922366 ffirs.qxp 8/28/06 10:45 AM Page i Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 2007 by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 01_922366 ffirs.qxp 8/28/06 10:45 AM Page ii 01_922366 ffirs.qxp 8/28/06 10:45 AM Page i Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 2007 by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 01_922366 ffirs.qxp 8/28/06 10:45 AM Page ii Published by: Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2006 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authoriza- tion through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/572-4355, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN-13: 978-0-471-92236-0 ISBN-10: 0-471-92236-6 Editor: Jennifer Anmuth Production Editor: Suzanna R. Thompson Cartographer: Andrew Murphy Photo Editor: Richard Fox Anniversary Logo Design: Richard Pacifico Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: Shaded area and beach chair near ocean in Quintana Roo Back cover photo: El Castillo, also known as Pyramid of Kukulcán, at Chichén Itzá For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 54321 02_922366 ftoc.qxp 8/28/06 10:49 AM Page iii Contents List of Maps vi What’s New in Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 1 by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow 1 The Best of Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 5 by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow 1 The Best Beach Vacations . .5 7 The Best Shopping . .11 2 The Best Cultural Experiences . .8 8 The Hottest Nightlife . .12 3 The Best Archaeological Sites . .8 9 The Most Luxurious Hotels . .12 4 The Best Active Vacations . .9 10 The Best Inexpensive Inns . .13 5 The Best Places to Get Away 11 The Best Unique Inns . .14 from It All . .10 12 The Best Restaurants . .15 6 The Best Museums . .10 2 Planning Your Trip to the Yucatán 17 by Lynne Bairstow 1 The Regions in Brief . .17 10 The 21st-Century Traveler . .41 2 Visitor Information . .20 Online Traveler’s Toolbox . .43 3 Entry Requirements & Customs . .20 11 Getting There . .44 4 Money . .23 Getting through the Airport . .45 5 When to Go . .26 12 Packages for the Independent Yucatan Calendar of Events . .26 Traveler . .49 6 Travel Insurance . .29 13 The Active Traveler . .52 7 Health & Safety . .30 14 Tips on Accommodations . .53 Treating & Avoiding Digestive 15 Getting Around Mexico . .55 Trouble . .34 16 Food & Drink . .58 8 Specialized Travel Resources . .34 17 Recommended Books & Films . .61 9 Planning Your Trip Online . .38 Fast Facts: Mexico . .63 Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource . .39 02_922366 ftoc.qxp 8/28/06 10:49 AM Page iv iv CONTENTS 3 Suggested Yucatán Itineraries 70 by David Baird 1 Northern Yucatán in a Week . .70 3 La Ruta Maya . .73 2 An Ecoadventure for the Whole Family . .71 4 Cancún 76 by Lynne Bairstow 1 Orientation . .77 4 Beaches, Watersports & The Best Websites for Cancún . .78 Boat Tours . .97 Fast Facts: Cancún . .81 5 Outdoor Activities & Attractions . .101 2 Where to Stay . .83 6 Shopping . .102 3 Where to Dine . .92 7 Cancún After Dark . .104 5 Isla Mujeres & Cozumel 107 by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow 1 Isla Mujeres . .107 2 Cozumel . .121 The Best Websites for Isla An All-Inclusive Vacation Mujeres & Cozumel . .108 in Cozumel . .123 Fast Facts: Isla Mujeres . .111 Fast Facts: Cozumel . .125 6 The Caribbean Coast: The Riviera Maya, Including Playa del Carmen & the Costa Maya 139 by David Baird The Best Websites for Playa del The Sian Ka’an Biosphere Carmen & the Caribbean Coast . .140 Reserve . .170 1 Playa del Carmen . .142 5 Cobá Ruins . .171 Fast Facts: Playa del Carmen . .145 6 Majahual, Xcalak & the Choosing an All-Inclusive Chinchorro Reef . .174 in the Riviera Maya . .152 7 Lago Bacalar . .176 2 North of Playa del Carmen . .154 8 Chetumal . .177 3 South of Playa del Carmen . .159 9 Side Trips to Maya Ruins 4 Tulum, Punta Allen & Sian Ka’an . .165 from Chetumal . .179 Tulum: A Friendly Difference of Opinion . .166 02_922366 ftoc.qxp 8/28/06 10:49 AM Page v CONTENTS v 7 Mérida, Chichén Itzá & the Maya Interior 186 by David Baird The Best Websites for Mérida, Of Haciendas & Hotels . .204 Chichén Itzá & the Maya 2 The Ruins of Uxmal . .214 Interior . .188 3 Campeche . .223 1 Mérida: Gateway to the Maya Fast Facts: Campeche . .226 Heartland . .188 Festivals & Special Events 4 The Ruins of Chichén Itzá . .230 in Mérida . .191 5 Valladolid . .237 Fast Facts: Mérida . .192 8 Tabasco & Chiapas 243 by David Baird 1 Villahermosa . .244 Fast Facts: San Cristóbal 2 Palenque . .250 de las Casas . .262 3 San Cristóbal de las Casas . .258 Special Events in & near San Cristóbal . .265 The Zapatista Movement & Chiapas . .261 4 Tuxtla Gutiérrez . .275 Appendix A: The Yucatán in Depth 279 1 The Land & Its People . .279 3 Art & Architecture 101 . .289 2 A Look at the Past . .281 4 Religion, Myth & Folklore . .291 Dateline . .282 Gods & Goddesses . .291 Appendix B: Useful Terms & Phrases 293 1 Basic Vocabulary . .293 2 Menu Glossary . .294 Index 297 General Index . .297 Restaurant Index . .307 Accommodations Index . .305 02_922366 ftoc.qxp 8/28/06 10:49 AM Page vi List of Maps Mexico 6 Tulum Ruins 167 The Yucatán Peninsula 18 The Yucatán’s Lower Caribbean Tabasco & Chiapas 21 Coast 175 Northern Yucatán in a Week 71 What to See & Do in Mérida 195 An Ecoadventure for the Whole Where to Stay & Dine in Mérida 201 Family 72 Kabah Ruins 217 La Ruta Maya 74 Sayil Ruins 219 Downtown Cancún 79 Labná Ruins 221 Isla Cancún (Zona Hotelera) 85 Campeche 225 Isla Mujeres 109 Villahermosa Area 245 San Miguel de Cozumel 127 Where to Stay & Dine in The Yucatán’s Upper Caribbean Palenque 255 Coast 141 San Cristóbal de las Casas 259 Playa del Carmen 143 Chiapas Highlands 274 Acknowledgments I would like to acknowledge an enormous debt to Ms. Claudia Hurtado, whose knowledge and contacts in the Riviera Maya smoothed the way for the research of that area. I would also like to extend a personal thanks to all the readers who have taken the time to write me with your suggestions. —David Baird I am appreciative of the invaluable contribution of my research assistant, Cecilia Mendicuti, to this book. —Lynne Bairstow 03_922366 flast.qxp 8/28/06 10:49 AM Page vii An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommenda- tion, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 2007 Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experi- ences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. About the Authors David Baird has lived in various parts of Latin America, including Mexico, Puerto Rico, Peru, and Brazil. He now makes his home in Austin, Texas, but he tries to get back to the turquoise- blue waters of the Yucatán whenever possible because he thinks he looks good in that color.