BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME FROM THE SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND THE GIFT OF 1891 ({^"lOH - loMi 3777 CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 3 1924 091 786 255 L(K? Cornell University Library ^K^ The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924091786255 THE BOOK OF ARRAN THE BOOK OF ARRAN VOLUME SECOND BY W. M. MACKENZIE HISTORY AND FOLKLORE THE ARRAN SOCIETY OF GLASGOW HUGH HOPKINS: GLASGOW MCMXIV e.v. PREFACE The present volume completes the enterprise undertaken by The Arran Society of Glasgow, the first volume of which, dealing with the Archaeology of the island and edited by the late Mr. J. A. Balfour, was published in 1910. It is matter of regret that Mr. Balfour himself did not live to complete the work to which he had devoted so much energy and research. His early death was a distinct loss to Scottish historical study. Mr. Balfour had already collected a considerable part of the material which has here been utilised. For the treat- ment of this, however, as well as for much additional material and for the whole plan and setting of the book, the present writer is wholly responsible. It also seemed good to him to depart from the method of the first volume, and make the work that of an individual pen, so as to secure the necessary continuity and sense of movement indispensable in history. In this way, too, the overlapping and disproportion in- evitable in separate contributions on particular subjects would be avoided. The general framework of the narrative is the study of the history of an island in an enclosed western sea. This establishes a point of view which is at once scientific and serviceable. Moreover, emphasis throughout has been laid upon the social or popular elements, and the great issues of the national history are introduced only in so far as they are explanatory of or relevant to local matter. vi THE BOOK OF ARRAN It is a history of Arran as a part of Scotland, not of Scotland with Arran as a magnified intrusion. Only on these lines can such a work become contributory or supplementary to national history. In the performance of what was necessarily a responsible and heavy labour, the writer had every reason to appreciate the consideration and generosity of the Book Committee of the Arran Society. It was to him a pleasant association, all the more so from the sympathetic co-operation of the Honorary Secretary, Mr. Charles Hamilton. To certain members his debt is personally great and. more particular. It is fitting that acknowledgment should be made by all parties, and not least by the author, to the unflagging enthusiasm and care of Mr. William J. MacAlister. To Mr. Islay Kerr and Mr. Donald Currie personal obligations are also considerable. For assistance of a specially helpful character, and for some important contributions, the author gladly acknowledges the services of Mr. Alex. MacAlister of Kilpatrick and California. Without being invidious, he must refer to help and encouragement on the part of Mr. W. N. King, Mr. J. S. Bannatyne, Mr. And. Stewart, Mr. C. S. Douglas, and Mr. Donald M'Kelvie of Lamlash. Equally with the Book Committee the writer is indebted for most valuable material to the Marquis of Graham through his representative Mr. George Laidler, Factor of Arran. The opportunity of consulting the MS. Journal or Diary of Mr. Burrel, furnished by the Estates Office, has given the present volume a distinctive note of value. It is proper to say that for the use made of that material, with its selection and transcription, the author alone is responsible. The Committee are much indebted to Mr. R. L. Bremner for his contribution on Norse place-names. PREFACE vii To Mr. J. B. Sweet, Session Clerk of Kilbride, and to the Rev. A. W. Kennedy of Kilmorie, thanks are due for access to the Records of the respective parishes. The Gaelic material, save in cases specifically mentioned, was prepared and translated by the late Mr. Duncan Reid, and was carefully revised in proof by Mr. Norman MacLeod of Glasgow, with the assistance of Mr. James Craig, Kil- patrick. Mr. Craig's services deserve special mention, in so far as he secured many contributions to the collection of Folk Lore and of Arran Gaelic verse. Independently of the poetic quality of the verse, these compositions, alike in their associations and in their interest as examples of the Arran variety of the language, deserve a place in such a record as this. The collection here given is the result of a timely effort at preservation : with the passing away of the older people much has been irre- trievably lost. The list of individual contributors of much or little, whether used or not, will be found at the end of the volume. If any one has been overlooked it is to be regretted and is apologised for. More personally the author would thank Mr. William Melven of Glasgow Academy for the use of some printed material, and Mr. George Mackenzie for revising proofs. Mrs. John Mackay of the Celtic Monthly saved trouble by kindness in lending books for consultation. But under this head he is most indebted to the generosity with which Mr. Alexander Balfour placed at his disposal the volumes relating to the subject which had been collected by his son. This aid was most valuable. Some of the illustrations have been kindly furnished by Dr. C. Fred. Pollock, of Glasgow. b viii THE BOOK OF ARRAN It may be mentioned that every effort has been made to secure uniformity of speUing in names, and, as far as possible, to adopt for place-names the amended forms supplied in the first volume. At the same time any one familiar with historic records will realise the difficulties of such a course, which, indeed, is not in every case desirable. Reasonable limits to uniformity had therefore to be accepted. W. M. MACKENZIE. May 1914. —'• CONTENTS CHAPTER I EARLY ARRAN — ' The mythical Arran ' Emhain of the Apples —Arran and the Feinne —the coming of the Scots—Dalriadic Arran—the Norsemen in Arran—rise of Somerled and the Gall-Gael—expansion of Scotia close of Norse dominion—Hakon's fleet in Lamlash Bay—the Battle of Largs—tracks of the Norsemen, ..... CHAPTER II ARRAN IN THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE Arran a frontier island—the Bysset intrusion—Arran and Wallace the rising under Bruce—Douglas in Arran—attack on Brodick garrison —arrival of Robert Bruce in Arran—the fire at Turnberry— departure for the mainland— the Arran woman's prophecy— Bruce's later connection with Arran, . .25 CHAPTER III THE OWNERS OF ARRAN (I.) rran and the Earldom of Menteitli —the Menteith Stewarts as Lords of Arran—transfer to the Royal Stewarts—Arran in the Royal accounts —the farms and their rentals— devastations by the men of Knapdale and Kintyre, and reductions of rent^the story of Ranald MacAlister—mortgage of the island to the Bishop of Glasgow devastation by Donald Balloch—unsettled condition—the ' services of Colin, Earl of Argyll—grant to the Boyds, . .35 — — X THE BOOK OF ARRAN CHAPTER IV THE OWNERS OF ARRAN (II.) PAGB The 'firmarii' or farmers—the merklands — the 'baron-lairds' —the Montgomerys in Sannox and Loch Ranza ; transference of these to Hamiltons — the Fullartons of Corsby in tlie Knightslands Fullartons of Arran in Kilmichael and Glen Cloy—the coronership of Arran—the Ardgowan Stewarts iu the Tenpenny Lands— trans- ference to the Stewarts of Bute—the Hamiltons and the Tenpenny Lands —the Stewarts retain Corriegills ; sale to the Hamiltons—the Boyd Earl of Arran—the entry of the Hamiltons—James iv. and Arran —fortunes of the earldom till the Union of the Crowns, . 49 CHAPTER V CHURCHES AND CLERGY BEFORE THE REFORMATION Tlie old religion—Christianity and the story of St. Molaise of Lamlash — '— —the Arran Church dedications ' Mary of the Gael ' Michael of the white steed' ' the vicar of Arran ' — the parish churches to the Abbey of Kilwinning— Kilbride and Kilmorie in pre-Reformation times—the abbey lands of Shisken, . 68 CHAPTER VI ARRAN IN POLITICS Arran in the ' Troubles ' —stray glimpses of its life—feud and foray purchases at Ayr—terror of the MacDonalds— strategic importance for Scotland and Ireland—a refuge and a prison—ci-ime in Arran the Hamiltons become hereditary Justiciars—deforcing the King's messenger at Brodick — the story of Patrick Hamilton the M'Alisters again— the Commonwealth; foray by the Campbells Cromwell's garrison in Arran—the Duchess Anne—Arran men in the ' Forty-five,' ..... .88 CHAPTER VII FOLK HISTORY Tradition in history—the last raid in Arran— tlie names of the people —the ' baron-lairds ' in tradition —stories of the Fullartons— of other families—the ' bloomeries ' —military and naval service the press- gang its —smuggling and tragic incidents, . .113 ——— CONTENTS xi CHAPTER VIII THE CHURCH AFTER THE REFORMATION PAGE The two parishes after the Reformation—the ministers of Kilbride, of Kilmorie — Beith of Kilbride, the reverend slayer — the clerical dynasties—burning of the Kilmorie manse—the Kilmorie case at the Assembly— Rev. Wm. Shaw of the Gaelic Grammar and Dictionary—persecution of Shaw— the Session Records of Kilbride . and Kilmorie, their contents—domestic and township quarrels Sabbath breaking—education and schools—account of payments, . 138 CHAPTER IX THE FIRST OF THE IMPROVERS Islands deficient in arable land—Arran fishings in the eighteenth century—mode of cultivation—runrig—character of the people Burrel's Diary ox Journal—rents and restraints—local government institution of the packet-boats—Burrel's calculations and judgments —game in the island—Burrel's results small apart from rental condition of the island in the later years of the century—routine of its life—occupations and dwellings—the Arran roads, .