Rock Castle Gorge Special History Study Rocky Knob Recreation Area Prepared by Anita Puckett and Leslie Shelor Allen with Philip Prince and Ralph Lutts For the National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior Blue Ridge Parkway Funded by a grant from the Robert M. Utley Foundation December 31, 2018 Special History Study of Rock Castle Gorge i Table of Contents List of Photos………………………………………………………………………….. iv List of Maps, Figures, and Tables……..…..……..……..…………………………………v 1. Introduction………………………………………………………………………… 1 A. Purpose………………………………………………………………………… 1 B. Gorge Description…..………………………………………………………… 2 C. Settlement History Overview ………………………………………………… 4 D. Significance ………………………………………………………………….. 6 E. Acknowledgements…………………………………………………………… 7 2. Geology……………………………………………………………………………… 8 A. Geology and Topography……………………………………………………… 8 B. The “Rock Castle” Name ………………………………………………............. 9 C. Topographical Impacts on Gorge Integration with Surrounding Communities... 12 D. Stream Capture and Gorge Formation………………………………………... 13 3. Ecology and Prehistory…………………………………………………………..... 18 A. Ecology……………………………………………………………………….. 18 B. Rock Castle Gorge Prehistory………………………………………………… 21 C. European Residents’ Reports on Native Americans’ Presence in the Gorge….. 23 4. Land Deeds and Early European Settlement…………………………………….. 25 A. Early Land Grants…………………………………………………………….. 26 B. Early Settlement and Ethnicity…………………………………………………. 28 C. Early Cultural Life …………………………………………………………… 31 5. Development of Gorge Community Life…………………………………………. 37 A. The Civil War and Its Impact on the Gorge…………………………………. 37 B. Creation of Gorge Community Life after 1870……………………………… 39 C. Natural Landmarks…………………………………………………………... 49 1. Bare Rocks……………………………………………………………….. 49 2. Tater Hill…………………………………………………………………. 51 3. Baptismal Font…………………………………………………………… 52 4. Lethia Spring……………………………………………………………… 53 5. High Bank………………………………………………………………… 53 6. Dry Holler………………………………………………………………… 54 D. Physical Structures…………………………………………………………… 54 1. Houses……………………………………………………………………… 54 Special History Study of Rock Castle Gorge ii 2. Barns, Apple Houses, Sheds, Fences, and Other Out Buildings…………… 63 E. Gorge Businesses and Industries………………………………………………. 69 1. Grist Mills………………………………………………………………….. 69 2. Threshing Machines………………………………………………………... 76 3. Sawmills……………………………………………………………………. 77 4. Blacksmith Shop…………………………………………………………… 79 5. Mining……………………………………………………………………… 80 6. Distilleries………………………………………………………………….. 80 7. Electric Generators, Batteries, and Telephones……………………………. 81 6. Socioeconomic Life…………………………………………………………………. 82 A. Before the Chestnut Blight (about 1870-1920)………………………………… 83 1. Crops and Bees……………………………………………………………... 84 2. Gardens………………………………………………………………………86 3. Wild Plants, Nuts, and Syrups………………………………………………. 86 4. Domesticated Animals……………………………………………………… 87 5. Hunting and Fishing………………………………………………………… 87 6. Fruit Trees and Orchards…………………………………………………… 88 7. Meals and Diet……………………………………………………………. 97 8. Women’s Activities ………………..………………………………………..99 B. After the Chestnut Blight……………………………………………………… 99 C. The Cash Economy…………………………………………………………… 104 1. Pre-1920…………………………………………………………………... 104 2. Post-1920………………………………………………………………… 104 3. Stores Pre- and Post- Chestnut Blight……….…………………………… 109 7. Education, Religious Expression, and Religious Rituals………………………….112 A. Education………………………………………………………………………112 B. Religious Expression………………...………………………………………...114 C. Religious Rituals in Rock Castle Gorge……………………………………… 116 8. Folklore, Folk Beliefs, Legends, and the Circus………………………………… 117 A. Folklore……………………………………………………………………… 117 B. Folk Beliefs……………………………………………………………………118 C. Legends………………………………………………………………………..119 1. Benjamin Belcher Legends………………………………………………...119 2. Other Civil War Legendary Narratives…………………………………… 122 3. Legends of the Caves………………………………………………………123 4. Other Widely-Known Legends…………………………………………… 123 5. Lesser-Known Legends…………………………………………………… 124 D. The Circus…………………………………………………………………….. 125 9. The Civil Conservation Corps Camp and Parkway Acquisition…………………126 Special History Study of Rock Castle Gorge iii A. Parkway Acquisition….………………………………………………………...126 B. The CCC Camp………….……………………………………………………..143 10. Conclusion and Recommendations………………………………………………...148 A. Conclusion……………………………………………………………………..148 B. Recommendations……………………………………………………………. .151 References………………………………………………………………………………... 154 Legend……………………………………………………………………………. 154 A. Published works………………………………………………………………. 154 B. Websites……………………………………………………………………….. 156 C Oral Histories……..…………….……………………………………………... 159 D. Tract Files…….…………………………...............……………………........... 160 E. Land Grants and Deeds………………………………………………………... 164 F. Unpublished reports, manuscripts, and miscellaneous documents……………. 167 G. Archived Photographs………………………………………………………… 168 Special History Study of Rock Castle Gorge iv List of Photos Photo 2.1. Quartz Crystal Similar to Ones Found in the Gorge…………………………... 10 Photo 2.2 Rock Castle Gorge Quartz Crystals in Exterior Walls of Slate Mountain .…… Mountain Presbyterian Church…………………………………………………….. 11 Photo 2.3 Close Up of Rock Castle Quartz Crystal in Exterior Wall of Slate Mountain … Mountain Presbyterian Church……………………………………………………………. 11 Photo 2.4 Exterior Front Wall of Slate Mountain Presbyterian Church Showing Placement of Rock Castle Gorge Quartz Crystals among Other Stones……………….………. 12 Photo 2.5 Brook Trout………………….…………………………………………………. 17 Photo 5.1 Bare Rocks………….………………………………………….………….….... 50 Photo 5.2 Bare Rocks Caves……….……………………………………………….…….. 51 Photo 5.3 Baptismal Pool……….……………………………………………………........ 52 Photo 5.4 Lethia Spring…………….……………………………………………………... 53 Photo 5.5 Extant Chimney Showing Sturdy Building Style………….…………………... 55 Photo 5.6 View of the Whorley (McAlexander) House 2012…………….…………….… 56 Photo 5.7 End View of the Whorley House Showing One of the Chimneys……….…..… 57 Photo 5.8 Photo of William Cruise Howell in Front of Sam Underwood’s House...…….. 58 Photo 5.9 The “Mac” Conner or White House………………………………………......... 59 Photo 5.10 Nancy E. (Liney) Lee House 1953…..………...…………………………….... 60 Photo 5.11 Shabby House 1953…………………..……………………………………...... 61 Photo 5.12 The Joshua Nester House 1953………..……………………………….……... 62 Photo 5.13 Mangrum House Front and Side Views…………..…………………….…….. 63 Photo 5.14 Barn at Austin/Conner House……………..…………………………….……. 64 Photo 5.15 Inside of Barn at Austin/Conner House ………………………………..…….. 65 Photo 5.16 Extant Fence Post in Gorge………..………….…………………………..…... 67 Photo 5.17 Remains of the Root Cellar at the Sam Underwood House…………...…..….. 68 Photo 5.18 Photo of DeHart Mill Wheel Circa 1920……………………...…………..…... 72 Photo 5.19 Photo of What is Believed to be the Hylton/Hilton Mill Circa 1936…….…… 75 Photo 5.20 Mangrum Mill……….......…………………………………………………..... 76 Photo 6.1 Communal Meal Probably at the William Tilden (“Til”) Underwood House..... 98 Photo 6.2 Photo of the Gorge from the Parkway Looking Towards the CCC Camp ……. Circa 1936………………………………………………………………………..….……. 103 Photo 6.3 Contemporary Photo of the Gorge Using Google Earth……………….............. 103 Photo 6.4 Site of Edward’s Store…………………………………………………..….….. 109 Photo 7.1 Likely Location of Stamping Birches School……………………………......… 114 Photo 8.1 Photo of Old Car Wreck……………………………………………………...... 124 Photo 9.1 Mr. Joshua Nester Receives his Check from Mr. Sam Weems, ………….…… Project Manager…………………………………………………………………...…….... 142 Photo 9.2 Camp Layout before Permanent Barracks Were Built……………………...…. 146 Photo 9.3 Panorama of Camp………………………………………………………..…… 146 Photo 9.4 Tented Barracks……………………………………………………….…..…… 146 Photo 9.5 Kitchen, Mess Hall and Menu Kit, Washing Cans………………………...…... 146 Photo 9.6 High Water Ford, Rock Castle Creek at CCC Camp Site………………………147 Special History Study of Rock Castle Gorge v List of Maps, Figures, and Tables Figure 1.1. Aerial View of Rock Castle Gorge………………………………………...…. 3 Figure 2.1 Rock Castle Gorge within Blue Ridge Escarpment………………………..…... 8 Figure 2.2 Smith River System………………………………………………..….…..…… 13 Figure 2.3 Captured New River Stream..………………………………………………..… 13 Figure 2. 4 Surface Outcrops of Metamorphic Rock Constituting George ………………. Lithography…………………………………………………………...….………...... 15 Map 5.1 Location of Houses by Owner Circa 1925……………….…………………..…. 40 Map 5.2. Tract Owners and Parkway Tract Numbers…….….…………………..……..… 41 Table 5.1. List of Tracts with Structures as of 1937 at Time of Blue Ridge Parkway…… Acquisition………………………………………………………………………….. 42 Table 6.1 Varieties of Apples Grown in Rock Castle Gorge…………..………..……...... 90 Table 6.2 Cash and Cash Equivalent Income by Product ~ 1900-1920………..………... 106 Table 9.1 Landowners’ Appraisal and Sale Data……………………….……………….. 127 Special History Study of Rock Castle Gorge 1 1. Introduction A. Purpose This study describes the cultural history of Rock Castle Gorge (“the Gorge”) prior to acquisition of its properties by the Blue Ridge Parkway (“the Parkway”) in 1935-37. It also discusses the geology, ecology, and prehistory of the Gorge as they apply to the adaptations of the European settlers who lived there. The study focuses on the settlement patterns, folkways and daily life, economic patterns, material culture, education, and religious resources of the approximately 17-30 homesteads in the Gorge from approximately 1820 to 1937 when most settlement ceased and the Parkway, under the aegis of the National Park Service (NPS), owned and controlled all of the area except for