Fashion. Beauty. Business. The DEC 2015 TOP No. 3 STORIES of the YEAR Designer Drama Tragedy in Paris Givenchy’s N.Y. The Three Giants Outlet Boom Androgyny Rises HBC’s Whirlwind Coty’s Empire The Model Is Back Yoox’s New Net Condé’ Shake-up TPP Gets Real NEWSMAKER of the YEAR François-Henri Pinault US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 KENDALL JENNER © 2015 Estée Lauder Inc. © 2015 esteelauder.com DRIVEN BY DESIRE NEW Kendall’s shade: Lethal Red PURE COLOR ENVY LIQUID LIP POTION Fluid lipcolor with lipstick’s potent effect. Oil Elixir Infused Edward Nardoza STORIES EDITOR IN CHIEF Pete Born of the YEAR EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Bridget Foley EXECUTIVE EDITOR James Fallon 14 No. 1 Designers: EDITOR Deities No Longer Robb Rice For the designer set, 2015 was GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR the year of living strangely. 18 No. 2 Tragedy in Paris The shock of the terrorist attacks reverberates in the City of Light and beyond. 20 No. 3 Moving the Needle John B. Fairchild Riccardo Tisci’s stunning Givenchy 1927 — 2015 show in New York was a creative tour de force, to which he also welcomed MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera the public — which will impact MANAGING EDITOR, Dianne M. Pogoda FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS fashion for years to come. EXECUTIVE EDITOR, EUROPE Miles Socha DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR Evan Clark 22 No. 4 Giant Steps NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood DEPUTY EDITOR, DATA AND ANALYSIS Arthur Zaczkiewicz Amazon is flexing its online SITTINGS DIRECTOR Alex Badia muscle, giving Wal-Mart and SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, Arthur Friedman Target a wake-up call. TEXTILES & TRADE SENIOR EDITOR, FINANCIAL Vicki M. Young 24 No. 5 Outlets Are In Again. BUREAU CHIEF, LONDON Samantha Conti BUREAU CHIEF, MILAN Luisa Zargani People love a bargain, and the BUREAU CHIEF, LOS ANGELES Marcy Medina off-price and outlet sectors are ASIAN EDITOR Amanda Kaiser electrified because of it. BUREAU CHIEF, WASHINGTON Kristi Ellis ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jenny B. Fine SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIALTY RETAIL Sharon Edelson 26 No.6 Going Gender Neutral SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET Julie Naughton BEAUTY EDITOR Androgyny has become a hot-button SENIOR FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Jessica Iredale topic on runways and beyond. ACCESSORIES MARKET DIRECTOR Roxanne Robinson FASHION MARKET DIRECTOR Mayte Allende EYE EDITOR Taylor Harris 28 No. 7 Hubbub at HBC MEN’S It was a year of expansion, SENIOR EDITOR Jean E. Palmieri acquisition, renovation and executive FASHION DIRECTOR Alex Badia change at Hudson’s Bay Co. — and MEN’S MARKET EDITOR Luis Campuzano MEN’S REPORTER Aria Hughes Richard Baker’s not finished yet. MARKET EDITORS FINANCIAL NEWS AND ANALYSIS Debra Borchardt 30 No. 8 Coty’s Megadeal ACCESSORIES Misty White Sidell Bart Becht is out to build a BEAUTY Molly Prior global beauty empire. DIGITAL Rachel Strugatz READY-TO-WEAR & SPORTSWEAR NEWS Rosemary Feitelberg MEDIA Alexandra Steigrad 32 No. 9 The Return of the READY-TO-WEAR AND Kristi Garced SPORTSWEAR FASHION Mega Model EYE Ally Betker, Leigh Nordstrom Maybe it’s too soon to call Kendall CORRESPONDENTS Jenner and Gigi Hadid “supers,” LONDON, GENERAL Lorelei Marfil but there’s no denying the power ASSIGNMENT EDITOR ACCESSORIES AND GENERAL Natalie Theodosi of the new breed of multipurpose ASSIGNMENT EDITOR “business” models. LOS ANGELES Khanh T.L. Tran, Kari Hamanaka MILAN, FASHION AND NEWS Alessandra Turra NEW YORK, EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS William Cotto, 34 No. 10 All Together Now Tara Bonet-Black, One of the year’s most talked-about Kelsi Zimmerman mergers united two online luxury Ellen Thomas NEW YORK, FASHION ASSISTANTS Andrew Shang, Kayana Cordwell players. PARIS, EUROPEAN BEAUTY EDITOR Jennifer Weil PARIS, SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Laurent Folcher 36 PARIS, SENIOR BUSINESS NEWS EDITOR Joelle Diderich No. 11 Shake-Ups in the PARIS, GENERAL ASSIGNMENT Paulina Szmydke Land of Condé REPORTER, NEWS Big changes at the high wattage- PARIS, EDITORIAL AND WEB ASSISTANT Anne-Aymone Gheerbrant GENERAL ASSIGNMENT EDITOR, EUROPE Laure Guilbault publishing giant were heralded SAN FRANCISCO, TECHNOLOGY Maghan McDowell with the appointment of a new ceo. DESIGN DEPARTMENT CREATIVE DIRECTOR Nick Mrozowski 38 No. 12 Let’s Make a Pact SENIOR DESIGNER Christa Guerra DESIGNER Jewelyn Butron The President’s major trade deal PHOTOGRAPHY approached approval in 2015, PHOTO DIRECTOR Ash Barhamand but still faces some hurdles. SENIOR PHOTO EDITOR Jenna Greene BOOKINGS AND PRODUCTION EDITOR Oona Wally PHOTO EDITOR Katrina Brown PHOTO STUDIO NEWSMAKER PHOTO STUDIO COORDINATOR Emily Taylor PHOTOGRAPHERS George Chinsee, Steve Eichner, Thomas Iannaccone of the YEAR COPYDESK COPY CHIEF Maureen Morrison-Shulas COPY EDITORS Danielle Gilliard, David Podgurski, Maxine Wally 62 The Transformer PREPRESS PRODUCTION François-Henri Pinault has made DIGITAL IMAGING Alex Sharfman some sweeping moves at Kering PREPRESS ASSEMBLY David Lee Chin — some quietly and others more WWD.COM dramatically — including advancing SITE DIRECTOR Michelle Preli social initiatives, altering the ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR Kristen Tauer DIGITAL DAILY DESIGNER Ryan Richmond corporate culture and his out-on-a- WEB PRODUCER Robert Tutton limbtk Caption appointment Rate nisque at Gucci. et eserae Givenchy’s spring SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Pooja Bhaskar plitatem quuntion pe voluptae show at Pier 26 in INTERNATIONAL DIGITAL EDITOR Fabiana Repaci senimus doloribus a natem renimet Lower Manhattan. PUBLIC RELATIONS fugiati squam, ipsus si sum quia PR COORDINATOR Christina Mastroianni 6 DECEMBER 2015, No. 3 WWD.COM Photograph by STEVE EICHNER 1216_6-8_WWD_TOC.indd 2 12/16/15 10:51 AM Contents REMEMBER Paul Jowdy A transformational editor and publisher who SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER Pamela Firestone influenced how fashion and pop culture is ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER covered today, John B. Fairchild died ADVERTISING INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR, Renee Moskowitz in February at the age of 87. Page 68 RMM MEDIA EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S Brett Mitchell BEAUTY DIRECTOR Carly Gresh AMERICAN FASHION & Jennifer Petersen LUXURY DIRECTOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Samantha Hartje ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Amy Keiser Shannon Fitzgerald SENIOR CLIENT SERVICES MANAGER Joanna Block CLIENT SERVICES MANAGERS Annie Belfield Rachael DeSantis Tina Schissel REGIONAL OFFICES/INTERNATIONAL OFFICES WEST COAST DIRECTOR Jill Biren +1-323-965-7283 EUROPEAN ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Giulia Squeri +39-02-722-33602 ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Olga Kouznetsova +39-02-722-33603 SENIOR SALES COORDINATOR, ITALY Emanuela Altimani EUROPEAN DIRECTOR, FRANCE Valérie Deschamps-Wright +33-1-44-51-07-611 EUROPEAN SALES REPRESENTATIVE Marjorie Thomas +33-240-31-6541 ADVERTISING ASSISTANT, FRANCE Pascale Rajac DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES MARKETING DIRECTOR Shannon Nobles CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING Cass Spencer DIGITAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Cassie Leventhal DIGITAL SALES PLANNER Suzette Minetti AUDIENCE MARKETING VICE PRESIDENT Ellen Fairbanks Dealy CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR Peggy Pyle SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Janet Menaker & STRATEGIC DEVELOPMENT SENIOR DIRECTOR FINANCE, PLANNING Sean McDermott AND OPERATIONS PLANNING & OPERATIONS DIRECTOR John Cross SENIOR DIRECTOR, Randi Segal INSTITUTIONAL SALES SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER Suzanne Berardi SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Tamra Febesh ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER Lauren Busch PRODUCTION PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Kevin Hurley PRODUCTION MANAGER Providence Rao SUMMITS & EVENTS VICE PRESIDENT, NEW VENTURES & GM Amber Mundinger EXECUTIVE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mary Ann Bacher DIRECTOR, ATTENDEE SALES Kim Mancuso SPONSORSHIP DIRECTOR Alexis Coyle DIRECTOR OF Amelia Ewert EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC Stephanie George PRESIDENT AND VICE CHAIRMAN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR OF Michael Atmore FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT FINANCE DIRECTOR Devon Beemer DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS Ron Wilson WWD AND FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC John B. Fairchild ARE DIVISIONS OF PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION in 1976. Jay Penske CHAIRMAN & CEO VICE CHAIRMAN Gerry Byrne INFOCUS DEPARTMENTS EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, George Grobar STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, Paul Woolnough 40 Domestic Trade Show 10 Social Studies 57 Eye 82 They Said It BUSINESS AFFAIRS Calendar Buyers get set Regramming the Parties of the Year The highly quotable SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, Craig Perreault for the next round of Year A look back at Soirees were from the fashion BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT GENERAL COUNSEL & Todd Greene American trade shows. the top social media unapologetically world were at it SVP HUMAN RESOURCES fashion moments loud, Champagne– again this year. VICE PRESIDENT, CREATIVE Nelson Anderson VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE Ken Delacazar of 2015. soaked and — most VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES Tarik West importantly — fun. VICE PRESIDENT, ENGINEERING Gabriel Koen DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Lauren Gullion DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS Joni Antonacci CONTROLLER Young Ko SENIOR PROGRAM MANAGERS Christina Yeoh, ON THE COVER: François-Henri Pinault PHOTOGRAPHED BY JUDE EDGINGTON Derek Ramsey DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING OPERATIONS Eddie Ko DIRECTOR OF TALENT ACQUISITION Andy Limpus WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2015 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 210, NO. 33, DIRECTOR OF IT OPERATIONS Rick Gascon, Wednesday, December 16, 2015. WWD (USPS 689-960, ISSN 0149-5380) is published weekly, with one additional issue in February, March, June, October, November and December, and two additional issues in April and August