UNFINISHED STORIES MASTER OF ARTS (M.A) 2016/2017 JONNA HAEGGBLOM Unfinished Stories Master Dissertation Master of Arts (M.A) Sustainability in Fashion 2016/2017 Esmod Berlin - International University of Art for Fashion Author: Jonna Haeggblom Evaluating professors: Anita Heiberg, Beata Wilczek, Rolf Heimann, Thorbjorn Uldam, Wickie Meier Word count: 18 456 (Introduction: 1736, Critical Studies: 4356, Textiles and Production: 4206, Design Strategies: 2418, Business and Marketing: 5740) Research conducted in collaboration with Swedish research institute Swerea IVF and within the Mistra Future Fashion programme funded by Mistra. Berlin 05.09.2017 Printed on SFC certified 100 % recycled paper ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I would like to express my gratitude to a number of people for their valuable insights, support and guidance throughout the research and development of this research project. First, I would like to thank my professors: Wickie Meier, Anita Heiberg, Beata Wilczek, Rolf Heimann, Alexandra Woithe, Thorbjorn Uldam and Jasmina Benferhat. A special thanks is given to Christina Jönsson and Sandra Roos from Mistra Future Fashion, Marielle Kerber and Linda Ekström from Kerber and Ina Budde from Design for Circularity, for interesting discussions, input and knowledge from both academy and industry. Unbounded thanks to my family for endless support and engagement invaluable for this project. Finally, I want to thank my classmates whose knowledge, enthusiasm and creativity is of constant inspiration to me. CONTENTS 1. Introduction ................................................................................................................................................................................................. 10 1.1 Background ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 11 1.2 Purpose and Research Question ....................................................................................................................................................... 11 1.3 Research Methodology ...................................................................................................................................................................... 12 1.4 Project Overview ............................................................................................................................................................................... 14 2. Critical Studies............................................................................................................................................................................................. 16 2.1 Introduction ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 17 2.2 Systems Thinking .............................................................................................................................................................................. 18 2.3 The Current State of the Fashion Industry....................................................................................................................................... 19 2.4 Fashion Futures .................................................................................................................................................................................. 24 2.5 Bridiging the Paradigms .................................................................................................................................................................... 28 2.6 Conclusion ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 29 3. Textiles and Production ......................................................................................................................................................................... 30 3.1 Introduction ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 31 3.2 From a Linear Economy to a Circular Economy .......................................................................................................................... 33 3.3 Life Cycle Assessment ..................................................................................................................................................................... 34 3.4 Emotional Life Cycle Assessment ................................................................................................................................................... 36 3.5 What Makes the Difference? ............................................................................................................................................................ 45 3.6 Draft of a Practicable Model to Realize ............................................................................................................................................ 48 3.7 Individual Definitions ....................................................................................................................................................................... 51 3.8 Conclusion ......................................................................................................................................................................................... 52 4. Design Strategies .................................................................................................................................................................................... 54 4.1 Introduction ...................................................................................................................................................................................... 55 4.2 Design Strategies .............................................................................................................................................................................. 56 4.3 Design Concept ................................................................................................................................................................................ 64 4.4 Design Process ....................................................................................................... ......................................................................... 70 4.5 Collection Overview ......................................................................................................................................................................... 72 4.6 Conclusion ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 79 5. Business and Marketing Plan ............................................................................................................................................................ 80 5.1 Introduction ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 81 5.2 Business Model Innovation: Why, What, How.................................................................................................................................. 83 5.3 Business Plan ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 93 5.4 Marketing Plan ................................................................................................................................................................................. 100 5.5 Conclusion ......................................................................................................................................................................................... 1 0 4 6. Concluding Summary ......................................................................................................................................................................... 106 7. References ............................................................................................................................................................................................... 110 8. Appendixes ...............................................................................................................................................................................................114 List of figures 1.1 Project Overview (2017), author’s own 4.22 Design Process (2017), author’s own 2.1 The Iceberg Model (2015), North West Institute 5.1 Transparent Pricing (2017), Asket 2.2 Fashion Evolution Timeline (2017), author’s own 5.2 Lease (2017), Filippa K 2.3 Well-Tempered City (2017), author’s own 5.3 Denim (2017), RE/DONE 2.4 The Kinfolk Home (2015) 5.4 Fast and Slow Speed Systems (2017), author’s own 2.5 Bridging the Paradigms (2017), author’s own 5.5 Unfinished Stories Strategies (2017), author’s own 3.1 Circular Economy Systems Diagram (2017), Ellen MacAr- 5.6 Kerber (2015) thur Foundation 5.7 Swot Analysis (2017), author’s own 3.2 A Garment’s Life Cycle (2016), Clara Vuletich 5.8 AW17 (2017), Kerber