RACHEL HOWARD AND BILL NASH SECRET LONDON AN UNUSUAL GUIDE SECRET AN UNUSUAL GUIDE AN UNUSUAL DUBLIN JONGLEZ PUBLISHING WESTMINSTER TO CAMDEN FITZROVIA CHAPEL 8 building. Limitations of space don’t appear to have dampened his enthusiasm for the ornate, however: although the exterior is plain red Pocket-sized luxury brick and dressed Portland stone, he seems to have managed to squeeze a whole cathedral’s worth of gold and marble into the interior. Fitzroy Place, 2 Pearson Square, W1T 3BF This took time – the mosaic ceiling was still being worked on in 1936 www.fitzroviachapel.org for the lying-in-state of Rudyard Kipling – but eventually, Pearson’s Wed 11am–6pm “expensive” design was finished, just in time for the Second World War Admission free and the Blitz, during which the hospital was bombed. Transport: Goodge Street tube The chapel has been fully restored as part of the conditions of sale of ucked away in the heart of a new residential development north the hospital site to the current developers, and is open to the public one Tof Soho, Fitzrovia Chapel is a little golden jewel box of a building day a week. It also hosts events: check the website for details. which is all that remains of the Middlesex Hospital. Opened in the 1740s, the hospital evolved from a 15-bed operation to a Gothic revivalist leading teaching hospital, with the first dedicated AIDS wards in the UK. Pearson was a prominent Gothic Revivalist. This style of It finally closed in 2005 and was consolidated with University College architecture, which originated in the UK, sought to recreate Hospital round the corner on Euston Road. medieval Gothic architecture. Pugin’s Palace of Westminster is Officially opened by the Bishop of London in 1892, the chapel was the best-known example in London, but the capital is full of it. designed by John Loughborough Pearson, who was well known as an Strawberry Hill House in Richmond is the earliest example of ecclesiastical architect at the end of the 19th century. Typically, he appears the style in the UK – frankly, it’s bananas and well worth a trip. to have worked on a massive scale, designing Bristol and Truro Cathedrals, Tower Bridge and St Pancras station are good examples of how the as well as St Augustine’s, Kilburn, an overwrought barn of a church Victorians sought to romanticise the most functional of buildings, sometimes called the Cathedral of North London and worth a visit. using the style. Bear in mind that these two were built at around For the Fitzrovia Chapel, Pearson was forced to work in miniature the same time as the Eiffel Tower and the Brooklyn Bridge, both of on a cramped site at the north-western corner of the main hospital which still feel modern by comparison. - 26 - - 27 - WESTMINSTER TO CAMDEN AMERICAN BAR 28 he Stafford Hotel is very discreetly situated within the heart of AT THE STAFFORD HOTEL Tregal St James, the area surrounding Henry VII’s Tudor palace – residence of the British royal family right up until the time of Queen An American friend Victoria. Approach on a well-heeled foot either via a pathway skirting the north-east side of Green Park or through a double archway between 16-18 St James’s Place, SW1A 1NJ 64 and 68 St James’s Street. This leads you into Blue Ball Yard, a cobbled 020 7493 0111 www.thestaffordlondon.com ex-stable yard which has seen the clatter of many a royal filly. Now it [email protected] is the garden for the Stafford Hotel’s bar, perfect for a summer evening Daily 8am-12am drink and a cigar. But it’s when you pop inside for a top-up that you Transport: Green Park tube encounter the hotel’s right royal peculiarity. “American Bar” was the name given to many hotel bars during the 1930s to lure in wealthy transatlantic clientele with the promise of friendly service and proper cocktails. Guests at the Stafford felt so welcome that they started giving small tokens of their appreciation to the bar manager, Charles Guano. Starting with a little wooden Native American totem pole carving, the guests’ generosity rapidly spun out of control and soon every inch of the bar’s walls and ceilings were festooned with baseball caps, model aeroplanes, banner flags and celebrity signed photos. Dolly Parton, Bill Nighy and Gore Vidal wish you well. A large framed metal screwdriver commemorates a rookie error by a busboy who was still to learn his cocktail names. A recent redesign has organised the chaos, brought more light and space into the bar and also introduced a new Mediterranean tapas style menu of delicious treats like spring pea croquettes with truffle aioli. But you can still find little hints of the old American romance: mini doughnuts with a crab & chilli stuffing, anyone? Texts by Hannah Robinson A shrine to a secret agent A labyrinthine wine cellar for underground dining Hiding among the offerings is a bust of former hotel resident Nancy Beneath the hotel is an even deeper secret: a vast wine cellar, Wake, a secret agent whose undercover work in the Second World built in the 1700s by Lord Francis Godolphin and thought to be War saved thousands of lives. Code-named “the White Mouse” London’s oldest. Its long, dank, narrow corridors snake down past by the Gestapo because she kept escaping them, she showed over 8,000 bottles of the world’s finest wines, now carefully picked exceptional bravery in her work for the French Resistance and and guarded by Master Sommelier Gino Nardella. was the Allied forces’ most decorated woman. New Zealand born Reputedly one spur leads directly to the old palace, but my Wake had been introduced to her first “bloody good drink” at the exploration eventually hit a cul-de-sac filled with propaganda American Bar by the hotel’s manager and fellow Resistance fighter, posters, newspaper headlines, sandbags and helmets, Louis Berdet. It was here that she celebrated her 90th birthday and commemorating its use as a wartime bomb shelter. At one point it lived out her days until she could no longer lift a cocktail glass. widens out into a room where 17th-century wine barrels were once Now there is one named in her honour: the White Mouse cocktail. stored, now a private dining room which can seat up to 44 … ideal Bloody good it is too. for a post-apocalyptic dinner party. - 60 - - 61 - WESTMINSTER TO CAMDEN FREEMASONS’ HALL 43 ime was when everyone thought there was nothing more secretive Yes, the Freemasons’ Hall is open to the public Tthan a Freemason. But since the 1980s, the holiest of holies, the Freemasons’ Hall near Covent Garden, has been open to the public, 60 Great Queen Street, Holborn, WC2B 5AZ with a dedicated museum, an exhibition space in its library, and free 020 7831 9811 hour-long tours of the building including the Grand Temple. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm Closed: Bank Holiday weekends, Christmas and New Year Opened in 1933 when freemasonry was flourishing, the hall is an No booking required for the museum or library, but book online for tour to art deco beast of a building that dominates the street. It is often used include the Grand Temple: https://museumfreemasonry.org.uk/tours - tours as a film location and has doubled as Saddam Hussein’s palace. There begin at 11am, 12pm, 2pm, 3pm and 4pm is something melancholic about the place; membership numbers are Admission free in decline, which undoubtedly lies behind the decision to modernise Transport: Holborn tube and open up. The museum does a good job of explaining the history of freemasonry in the UK, and how the medieval stonemasons’ guilds, with their secret words and symbols, were adapted to become the guiding model for the organisation. Highlights include a display of Masonic regalia, including ornate aprons and gauntlet cuffs, items belonging to famous Freemasons including King Edward VII and Winston Churchill, and best of all, the colossal Grand Master’s Throne. Built in 1791, its first occupant was the Prince Regent, later George IV. George was notoriously fat – in his later years, he had to sleep sitting up in order to breathe – and the chair looks as if it was designed with his elephantine backside in mind. The glory of the hall, however, is the Grand Temple. Enter it through bronze doors that each weigh over a ton, and gaze up at its 18-metre mosaic ceiling. The grand days of the brotherhood may be behind them, but they’re still well housed. © UGLE © UGLE - 82 - - 83 - TEMPLE TO ANGEL THE LULLABY FACTORY 8 he Lullaby Factory is hard to explain. There’s an awkward space Industrial soothing and sleep system Tbetween two buildings at Great Ormond Street, London’s world- renowned children’s hospital. One of the buildings is due to be pulled Great Ormond Street Hospital, Great Ormond Street, WC1N 3JH down in 2028. Into this gap, architects Studio Weave have installed the Daily 9am-5pm Lullaby Factory, a flourish of pipes, horns and petals that climbs like a Transport: Russell Square tube berserk plant up the side of the 1930s Southwood Building. These pipes echo the structure of the hospital, but in fact, this is a beautiful machine that broadcasts calming and soothing lullabies for the hospital’s young patients. Put your ear to the huge drooping pods at ground level and you hear the music created by sound artist Jessica Curry, or tune into it via a special radio station.