A NEW TECHNIQUE FOR MEASURING DEPTH OF DISTURBANCE IN THE SWASH ZONE. A Brook 1,2 , C Lemckert 2 1 GHD , Level 13, The Rocket, 203 Robina Town Centre Drive, Robina, Qld 4226, Australia 2 Griffith University, Gold Coast, QLD ABSTRACT Depth of disturbance (DoD), also known as the sediment mixing depth, is a measure of the depth to which the beach face sediment is moved by wave action in the swash zone. By improving our understanding of DoD we can better predict important beach processes - such as natural beach evolution; sediment movement around engineering structures; the design and planning of beach renourishment schemes and sediment-associated pollution transport patterns. To date nearly all studies resolved DoD after a complete tidal cycle. This paper will present a new technique, based on sediment cores, for measuring DoD including conducting detailed analysis both due to a few waves or a complete tidal cycle. The new technique involves freezing sediment cores which can be taken during the tidal cycle. By freezing sediment cores it allows for detailed examination of the DoD and direction of local sand migration. The paper also outlines that, through the use of the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model, offshore wave readings from wave buoys can be related to nearshore wave height. Hence, through the dominant relationship of DoD to near shore breaking wave height, estimates of the disturbance to a beach may, in the future, be easily determined without the need to conducted detailed experiments. INTRODUCTION This project was inspired by the inherent need for a better understanding of DoD in the swash zone. To date nearly all work in the field has resolved DoD results after a complete tidal cycle, yet has related the DoD to the significant breaking wave height. There have been quite varying results for this relationship between wave height and disturbance depth found by different researchers. Using the three different techniques, the relationship has varied by up to an order of magnitude. - Coloured sediment filled channels and holes (Williams, 1971; Sherman et al , 1994; Ferreria et al ., 1998) - Depth of Disturbance rods and washers (Greenwood and Hale, 1980; Sani et al , 2009) - Tracers to mark sediment deposited in a section of the beach face (Sunamura & Kraus 1985, Ciavola et al , 1997) Sunamura & Kraus (1985) established a relationship for the maximum depth of DoD, Z m, in relation to breaker height H b as: Zm = 0.027 H b Using tracers to measure DoD as Sunamura & Kraus (1985), Ciavola et al, (1997) found a significantly different relationship of: Zm = 0.27 H b All three methods have the potential for additional disturbance whilst trying to establish the magnitude of DoD that has occurred. Using the different techniques it may also be unclear as to where the cut off point for DoD may take place. In the most recently published method Jackson and Malvarez (2002) developed a mechanical profiler (SAM), which allowed for measurements within the tidal cycle to occur. Zm = 0.24 H b This study aims to develop a more accurate technique that will allow for better analysis of DoD. By introducing a new, more accurate method it will be clear to what depth disturbance has occurred and allow for stronger relationships to the important factors causing DoD to be established. The new technique will allow for analysis both due to a few waves or a complete tidal cycle. By freezing sediment cores it allows for detailed examination of the DoD and direction of local sand migration. The study also aims to develop a technique of using the SWAN model to establish a relationship between nearshore wave height and offshore wave height. Hence, through the dominant relationship of DoD to near shore breaking wave height, estimates of the disturbance to a beach may, in the future, be made from readily available offshore wave buoy data. METHODOLOGY The experimental procedure consisted of the main activity of using coloured sediment to measure the DoD. Coloured sand cores were injected into the beach to measure DoD much like Sherman et al , (1994) and Ferreria et al ., (1998). Where this differed from the previously used process was that cores were extracted not only after a complete tidal cycle but also after a few waves. By doing this it allowed for analysis of the effects of individual wave action and not just the disturbance caused over a complete tidal cycle. These samples were also frozen for later dissection and analysis in controlled conditions allowing for a much better picture of the disturbance to be obtained. Along with the coloured sand cores, surveys were undertaken before, during and after a tidal cycle to measure surface elevation changes within the swash zone. A pressure transducer was deployed within the nearshore wave zone to measure wave height. A SWAN wave model was also developed to establish a relationship between offshore wave buoy readings and nearshore wave height. Coloured Sand and Sediment Freezing For this experiment sand was coloured a good solid colour, that contrasted with and was easy to see amongst the existing beach sand. After a number of trials dark blue was chosen as it could be clearly seen against the beach sand. A line marking spray paint was used to colour the sand. The method for measuring the DoD within the swash zone was undertaken by injecting coloured sand cores into the beach, then extracting a larger sand core, and analysing the disturbance within the coloured sand. After the desired number of swash waves (or a complete tidal cycle) had passed the coloured sand core, a 100 mm diameter PVC pipe was pushed into the beach encapsulating the coloured core. The PVC pipe containing the sand core was then removed and immediately placed in an esky full of dry ice to begin the freezing of the core. After all the required cores had been taken the samples were then transported to a freezer where they were frozen solid over a 24 hour period. Once frozen, the cores became quite stable and solid, allowing for them to be dissected in order to undertake detailed analysis of the disturbance within the coloured sand core. Working from right to left in facing seaward, 1 mm slices of sand were progressively shaved off the frozen sand cores. The location of the coloured sand for each shaved section was recorded by tracing the coloured sand outline. From this detail a 3D model of the core was developed in CAD software (see Figure 1). Initially there were concerns that during freezing expansion may cause distortion. However, Holman and Sallenger (1985) performed extensive work looking at freezing to obtain undisturbed samples of loose sand and had found that only very minimal expansion and distortion occurred in most cases. The samples frozen for this study showed no real sign of expansion. Land Ocean Figure 1. Photograph of frozen core after half of the 1mm slices have been shaved off (left) and 3D model of core generated after results have been digitized (right). Wave measurement To measure nearshore wave height a pressure transducer was deployed within the nearshore wave zone at the experimental site. Readings from the pressure sensors were converted to significant wave height using Nielsen’s (1989) method of local approximations which are a recommended tool for the analysis of natural water waves. SWAN Wave Modelling To date all DoD studies have established the relationship between DoD and the near shore breaking wave height. This is logical as the near shore wave height has a large impact on near shore sediment transport and DoD. Measurement of near shore waves can however be difficult at times and requires the deployment of temporary wave gauges. Throughout Queensland the Department of Environment and Resource Management (DERM formerly EPA) has a number of offshore Waverider Buoys that measure wave height, period and more recently direction. By developing a Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model of the study area it allowed for easy estimation of near shore wave height from readily available wave buoy data without the need for deployment of wave gauges every time an experiment was done. Model Grids The digital bathymerty grid levels were created to Chart Datum (CD). To provide an accurate representation of the bathymetry three sources of information were used: • Geosciences Australian, 250m Bathymetric and Topographic Grid (Offshore area), • Maritime Safety Queensland Hydrographic Surveys, D013-084, D002-104 and D002-094 (Near shore area), and • Gold Coast City Council (GCCC), profile survey lines ETA 39 to 80 (Coastal zone) To manage and economise computations the wave model was broken down into a series of progressively refined runs, or nested runs, narrowing into the site of interest. STUDY AREA The experimental work was conducted on the Southport Spit located at Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia. Figure 2 shows the location of the experimental site, offshore wave buoy and WAM node 39. This stretch of coastline has mostly high energy wide dissipative beaches, however they do have some reflective properties with steeper than normal slopes for dissipative beaches. A beach slope of 4.3º was measured at the experiment site. Figure 2. – Study Site - 27º 57’ 21”S, 153º 25’ 48”E (green), DERM Wave Buoy - 27º 57.9’S, 153º 26.5’”E (blue), BoM WAM Node 39 - 28º 00’S, 153º 30’ E (red). The study site is exposed to ocean swell with waves predominately from the east to southeast in the 0.5 to 1.5 m significant wave height range. The maximum significant wave heights are in the order of 5 to 6 m. High longshore transport rates are experienced along this stretch of coastline with a net transport of 500,000 m 3/year south to north (DHL 1992).