the guide. Take your time as you travel down the NSW South Coast, and you’ll discover plenty of foodie gems and artisan producers among the sparkling beaches, lush green hills and pristine National Parks. WORDS micHael sHafran PHOTOGRAPHY joHn Dennis Someone should have told Italy’s Slow days you’ll also find increasing numbers around nowra Food founder Carlo Petrini to head south of people who are making the most of Hungry Duck during his visit to Sydney last spring. If local produce. Artisan bakers, boutique The cosmopolitan country town of Berry he’d explored the NSW beaches stretching winemakers and well-regarded city chefs is the unofficial gateway to the South from Nowra to Narooma, he’d have been are setting up alongside established oyster Coast, and it’s certainly worth a stop for exhilarated to find a steady commitment farmers and fishermen. the Hungry Duck. Here, chef David from restaurants, cafes and producers Take the time to discover these as well Campbell follows up his successful adhering to his beloved principles. as the beaches, and it will become obvious Sydney cafe, The Book Kitchen, with An easy drive from from Sydney and why a new wave of seachangers is moving some exquisite mod-Asian flavours in an Canberra, this stretch of coast has always here, bringing with them a vibrancy that intimate shopfront. Get in during daylight been a popular holiday spot, but these lasts well past summer’s peak. hours to see the impressive kitchen garden, 60 delicious. Clockwise from far left: Mollymook sunrise; David Campbell of Hungry Duck, Berry; Cupitt’s Winery, Ulladulla; seafood plate and interior at Bannisters, Mollymook; Paperbark Camp, Woollamia; Berry Sourdough Bakery’s Jelle Hilkemeijer; The Cake Store, Nowra; beetroot and feta salad at Paperbark Camp’s Gunyah Restaurant. where produce including artichokes, kaffir style cooking into the menu. Baked goods complex, The Treat Factory (Unit 6, Old lime, fresh wasabi and blood oranges go remain an attraction including the terrific Creamery Ln, (02) 4464 1112) has been from garden to plate in dishes such as sourdough, brioche, tarts and teacakes. offering housemade jams, fudge and tender braised wagyu brisket with blood Enjoy them among the hedges or relax marmalades for three generations. orange, cassia bark and star anise. 85 inside and ogle whatever emerges from Queen St, Berry, (02) 4464 2323. the antique woodfired oven. 23 Prince THe cake sTore Alfred St, Berry, (02) 4464 1617. In the past, Nowra has mostly served Berry sourDougH Bakery & cafe For shopping in Berry, start at the ivy- drivers seeking a quick pit stop as they After eight years as Berry’s leading cafe, encased Roots & Wings Design (83 Queen head down the coast, but turn off the the Sourdough Bakery is adding a St, (02) 4464 2811), which carries a terrific highway and surprises await along weekend dinner menu and liquor licence. array of fashion labels and homewares. Kinghorne Street. The biggest drawcard is Another addition is Caroline Read (ex- Next, bring the coastal lifestyle home at Glenn and Danielle Parkes’ cafe. The couple Blancmange in Sydney) as head chef, Cabana Jo’s (168 Albert St, (02) 4464 3490) spent time at the Berry Sourdough Bakery who’ll keep the winning formula going, with classic surfing postcards and beach- & Cafe, and their skills are evident in even as she injects more of her European- style homewares. Hidden in an industrial luscious baked goods such as chocolate the guide. and orange cake, or raspberry and four-nut Two figs winery seagrass Brasserie tart. The bespoke space touts mix-and- IT executive Shayne Bricker’s fascination You’ll find Husky’s premier restaurant, match chairs and white Laminex tables, with wine led him to this hilltop vineyard. Seagrass, located in a refurbished cottage. while the weekly-changing menu offers the His focus is on soft, approachable wines Here, the modern, festive dining area likes of banana and date loaf with ricotta with natural acidity and plenty of fruit stretches from pillow-lined benches under and honey, or gnocchi with cherry tomatoes, flavour. Check out the lovely verdelho. a tented patio to the restored wood floors artichokes and asparagus. 39A Kinghorne 905 Bolong Rd, Berry (02) 4448 5003. and white-painted beams of the main St, Nowra, (02) 4423 0063. room. Chef Kierrin McKnight gives Mod Across the road is River Deli (84 coolangaTTa esTaTe Oz a good name with offerings such as Kinghorne St, Nowra, (02) 4423 1344), Of the scattering of South Coast wineries, braised pork belly with rice noodles or which started the street’s gourmet ascent. Coolangatta stands at the top for consistent pan-seared salmon fillet with Southern Amid a modern chandelier and dual quality. Semillon is the standout, aided by Thai panang curry. 13 Currambene St, antique eight-seater tables, you’ll find Hunter Valley stalwart Tyrrell’s as Huskisson, (02) 4441 6124. bread baked onsite, fresh tarts and muffins, winemaker. Check out the improbable quality sandwiches such as mixed-grain bottling of tannat, a French varietal as dark suPPly loaf with Burrawang cured ham, and as squid ink. At the restaurant, $25 buys a This cheery space combines cafe, fruit shop, pleasing plates like a mille-feuille of regional lunch plate with four tasting deli and gourmet goods supplier. Belinda caramelised onion and mushroom duxelle. glasses of wine. 1335 Bolong Rd, Bunter features many products from the Shoalhaven Heads, (02) 4448 7131. region, including her grandmother’s TenTHousanD TasTeBuDs Southern Highlands harvests. She also Good eating options were non-existent camBewarra esTaTe brews a great latte – enjoy it with a brekkie in Culburra until three years ago when North-west of Nowra, this estate has an of yoghurt pannacotta and almond granola. German-born Britta Opel transformed this excellent verdelho and good chardonnay. 1/54 Owen St, Huskisson, (02) 4441 5815. site from a ramshackle fish-and-chippery Even if they’re not on the list, try to get Another good option is Locavore (2/66 into a gourmet cafe. She serves Toby’s a taste of the regarded blanc de blanc Owen St, Huskisson, (02) 4441 5464), which Estate coffee and lunch fare spanning from sparkling and late-harvest chardonnay. sources produce from within 100 miles and Moroccan lamb burgers to curry specials. 520 Illaroo Rd, Banglee, (02) 4446 0170. offers such temptations as roast pumpkin Dinner has just been added to Friday and tartlets with organic feta and chilli jam. Saturday nights. 2/167 Prince Edward Ave, around jervis bay Just past Jervis Bay overlooking placid Culburra Beach, (02) 4447 4477. THe gunyaH resTauranT St Georges Basin, By the Beach B&B & PaPerBark camP (260 Greville Ave, Sanctuary Pt, (02) 4443 giDgeT goes To culBurra Gongs have come and gone at Paperbark 3208, bythebeachbandb.com.au, from $160 This cheeky beach shack exudes retro- Camp’s flagship restaurant, but the magic per double) is a collection of affordable, meets-maritime charm, with vintage has returned under new chef John Evans, expansive studios with polished concrete Gidget posters over the bed and a wall- who earned a hat at 3 Weeds in Sydney’s floors, high ceilings, heaps of closet space high model boat in the lounge area. The Rozelle. John’s rustic European cooking and views over Palm Beach. two-bedder (plus optional kids’ bunk seamlessly fits with the designer treehouse beds made from an antique wardrobe) is aesthetic, candlelit setting, wood fire and around ulladulla painted brazen pink, but the chick-kitsch balcony with gum tree panoramas. Grab a rick sTein aT BannisTers exterior is balanced indoors by boy-blue drink on the deck, then head indoors for No South Coast restaurant has been more wicker furniture and old bus route signs. pepperberry-spiced kangaroo loin or hotly anticipated than October’s opening There are even dog bowls and toys for the slow-cooked pork belly with morcilla and of Rick Stein’s first Australian outpost. pooch, but just remind Fido to stay off caramelised apple. Paperbark Camp itself Seafood, naturally, is the raison d’être, with the bed. From $230. 78 Park Row, remains one of the South Coast’s most head chef Julian Lloyd (a veteran of Rick’s Culburra Beach, 0400 606 990. inspired stays. The bushland setting offers UK restaurant) serving up lobster ravioli in At the Crookhaven Oyster Farmers luxury canvas tents from Botswana, the spinach and basil sauce, Indonesian complex in Greenwell Point, you’ll find the deluxe versions with freestanding baths seafood curry, and a mixed shellfish plate first of many oyster farms along the South and king beds. Seclusion is only with the rare inclusion of periwinkles. Coast, including Bed Rock Oysters (11/170 interrupted by the occasional neighbour: The elegant white room creates intimacy Greens Rd, 0413 480 972). This quality maybe a sugar glider or kangaroo. From with sheer hanging screens, while a glass producer farms by hand using eco-friendly $340 per double including breakfast. 571 outlook and balcony offer ocean views materials, and shucks on demand, Woollamia Rd, Woollamia, (02) 4441 7299, through the trees. The floor is run by preserving the river liquor inside. paperbarkcamp.com.au. manager Toby Evans, son of the late, 62 delicious. Clockwise from top right: Bunyas Organics & Antiques, Milton; Belinda and Glenda Bunter of Supply, Huskisson; roasted snapper with parsnip puree and red wine jus at The Gunyah Restaurant, Woollamia; Tyler’s Kitchen; Josh Tyler; Culburra Beach. the guide. legendary Australian winemaker Len, Alternatively, retreat to the beach house capsicum and fennel, and daily wraps with with his influence shown in the well- with gourmet takeaway from The Kitchen filling such as roast duck and beetroot crafted wine list.