Project Planning 101 A Weaver’s Toolkit JANE STAFFORD TEXTILES 142 Richard Flack Road Salt Spring Island, BC V8K 1N4 (250) 537-9468 [email protected] ©Jane Stafford Textiles 2018 www.janestaffordtextiles.com Project Planning 101 Table of Contents Page 1. Architecture, Graphic and Colour Page 2. Things to Think About Page 3. Planning Yardage Requirements Page 4. Example Yardage Calculation Page 5. Always Allow More Than Less Page 6. Yards in a Pound Count System Page 7. How to Figure Out Yards per 100 grams Page 8. Table of Standard Sizes Page 9. Table of Standard Sizes Cont. and Table of Measurements Page 10. Designing Table Linens Page 11. Reed Substitution Chart Page 12. Master Sett Chart ©Jane Stafford Textiles 2018 Architecture Graphic Colour n Sett n Stripes n Give yourself a palette based on weave struc- of colours you love. You ture can’t paint a colourful n Plaids picture with a cone of n Yarn selection white yarn. n Solids i.e. wool cotton acrylic n Desired drape or stiffness Yarn + Structure n Different sizes of warp = Your Canvas and weft then add: + Graphic + Colour ©Jane Stafford Textiles 2018 Page 1 Things to Think About 1. Sett (based on weave structure) 2. Finished Size +a. add on’s for width ie. - draw in and shrinkage +b add on’s for length ie. - take-up - shrinkage - hems and fringe 3. How many do you want to make? 4. What is your loom’s loss? ©Jane Stafford Textiles 2018 Page 2 Calculating Width and Calculating Warp Length therefore Weft Start with the Finished Start with Finished Width of length of one item: one item: ______” ______” +______” take-up +______” draw-in +______” shrinkage +______” shrinkage +______” hems/fringe =______” width in the =______” length of one reed item x______ EPI x______ number of =______ total items to be number of warp threads made =______” Multiply your total +______” loom loss number of warp ends by =______” length of the length of your warp and warp in inches you will have the number of 36 yards of yarn you need to =______ length of make the warp. I cheat and warp in yards just double it so I have enough for my weft. It’s better to round up than round down. ©Jane Stafford Textiles 2018 Page 2b Planning Your Requirements How much do I buy? epi x width in reed = total # of warp ends x length of warp = total yardage required for warp! If you are weaving a balanced piece of cloth you will need: ppi x width of warp (in inches) x length of warp (in inches) = total # of inches 36 = total number of yards ©Jane Stafford Textiles 2018 Page 3 ie. For a blankie: 6 epi x 45” wide = 270 of warp ends x 3 yards long = 810 yards of warp yarn required for warp! Weft #1 Weft #2 6 ppi 6 ppi x 45” wide x 45” wide 270 270 x 80 inches long x 2.5 yards long 21600 = 675 yards 36 approximately = 600 yards for weft ©Jane Stafford Textiles 2018 Page 4 Always Allow More Than Less! ©Jane Stafford Textiles 2018 Page 5 Yards per Pound in the Count System Wool (homespun) 300 Wool (worsted) 560 Linen 300 Cotton 840 Silk 840 2/8 2 = 2 ply, 8 = size of yarn size x Count per ply = pound 4 8 x 840 3360 yards in a pound 2 1 = ©Jane Stafford Textiles 2018 Page 6 How to figure out yards per 100 gr. You need to have yds/pound (note: there are 2.2 pounds in 1 kilo). ie. Rayon Chenille has 1300 yds/lb x 2.2 2860 yds in one kilogram 10 = 286 yds/100 gr. ©Jane Stafford Textiles 2018 Page 7 Table of Standard Sizes - from The Fundamentals of Weaving by Mary Meigs Atwater aka - Ancient History - however it is a good place to start Kitchen Tea Towels - small 16” x 28” Dish Cloths 15” x 15” 17” x 31” - large 22” x 32” Pot Holders 6 3/4” x 6 3/4” 22” x 35” 24” x 35” Aprons 36” x 30” Bathrooms Shower Curtains 75” x 72” Face Cloths 12” x 12” Bath Mats 24” x 48” 13” x 13” Cotton Towels Linen Towels Finger Tip 11” x 20” Guest Size 14 1/2” x 20 1/2” Hand Towels 16” x 28” 16” x 21” Bath Towels Family Size 18 1/2” x 30 1/2” - large 22” x 44” - larger 24” x 46” - largest 36” x 70” Dining Room Banquet Cloths 72” x 72” Napkins 22” x 22” 72” x 90” 72” x 108” Dinette Cloths 60” x 90” Napkins 16” x 16” 63” x 102” Luncheon Cloths 45” x 45” Napkins 12” x 12” 50” x 66” 52” x 52” 52” x 70” Tea Cloths 35” x 35” Napkins 10” x 10” (card table size) Place Mats 12” x 18” 14” x 20” Bedroom Blankets 60” x 84” Bedspreads 72” x 84” Double 86” x 105” 72” x 90” 96” x 112” Motor Rug 58” x 72” 98” x 110” Afghan 43” x 60” Single 72” x 105” Crib 36” x 54” ©Jane Stafford Textiles 2018 Page 8 Standard Sizes Continued: Living Room Scatter Rugs 18” x 30 24” x 48” 27” x 50” 36” x 60” 48” x 72” Clothing Tweeds 27” to 32” Stoles 16 1/2” to 70” (including 6” fringe at each end) Head Scarf 15” x 72” 26” x 60” Head Squares 27” x 27” 32” x 32” Silk Squares 18” x 18” 32” x 32” Men’s Scarves 14” x 45” Women’s Scarves - small 10” x 42” - large 15” x 45” Table of Measurements 10 millimetres = 1 centimetre 10 centimetres = 1 decimetre 10 decimetres = 1 metre 100 centimetres = 1 metre Table of Weights 1 ounce = 28.35 grams 1 pound = 453.59 grams 1 kilo (1000 grams) = 2.20 lbs. 1 kilo = 35.27 oz. 1 gram = 0.0022 lbs 1 gram = 0.035 oz Table of Measures 1 inch = 2.54 cm 1 foot = 30.27 cm 1 yard = 91.44 cm 1 cm = 0.3937 inches 10 cm = 3.937 inches ©Jane Stafford Textiles 2018 1 metre = 39.37 inches Page 9 Designing Table Linens Things to Consider: 1. Size: - to frame a place setting - to define an area on a table (runner) 2. Colour: - to match a piece of tableware - to compliment the décor of a room - symmetrical or asymmetrical use of colour 3. Overall - weight of placemat Design: - delicate, fine, heirloom - heavy and absorbent ie: repp weave 4. Structure: - many to choose from. Traditional linen weaves which are one shuttle balanced 50/50 weaves with a weft identical in size and type to the warp. The traditional linen weaves are M’s and O’s, Huck, Spot Bronson, Bronson Lace. - plain weave, twills, stripes, tartans, fine overshot, summer & winter, are all suitable as are the finger manipulated weaves such as leno, Brooks Bouquet, Spanish Lace, Danish Medallion, etc. 5. Design - take a piece of paper and cut to the size you want. Proportions: - It may help to use the Greek oblong which is a 2:3 ratio. - draw out your design - trust the Fibonacci numerical series 1+1=2, 1+2=3, 2+3=5, 3+5=8 etc. 6. Choosing Materials: -will depend on overall design ie: heavy, light, etc. 7. Care: - how often is this article to be used – occasionally or everyday? - how will it be laundered? 8. Hem Treatment: - fringe, double fringed, kotted, rolled, handstitched or machined stitched. ©Jane Stafford Textiles 2018 Page 10 Reed Substitution Chart Reed Substitution Chart Sley 5 6 8 10 12 15 16 18 in Reed 0-0-1 2 2 3 3 4 5 5 6 0-1 2.5 3 4 5 6 7.5 8 9 0-1-1 3 4 5 7 8 10 11 12 0-1-1-1 4 4.5 6 7.5 9 11.5 12 13.5 1 5 6 8 10 12 15 16 18 1-1-1-2 6 7.5 10 12.5 15 19 20 22.5 1-1-2 7 8 11 13 16 20 21 24 1-2 7.5 9 12 15 18 22.5 24 27 1-2-2 8 10 13 17 20 25 27 30 1-2-2-2 9 10.5 14 17.5 21 26 28 31.5 2 10 12 16 20 24 30 32 36 2-2-2-3 11 13.5 18 22.5 27 34 36 40.5 2-2-3 12 14 19 23 28 35 37 42 2-3 12.5 15 20 25 30 37.5 40 45 2-3-3 13 16 21 27 32 40 43 48 2-3-3-3 14 16.5 22 27.5 33 41 44 49.5 3 15 18 24 30 36 45 48 54 3-3-3-4 16 19.5 26 32.5 39 49 52 58.5 3-3-4 17 20 27 33 40 50 53 60 3-4 17.5 21 28 35 42 52.5 56 63 3-4-4 18 22 29 37 44 55 59 66 4 20 24 32 40 48 60 64 72 4-4-5 22 26 35 43 52 65 69 78 4-5-5 23 28 37 47 56 70 75 84 5 25 30 40 50 60 75 80 90 ©JanePushing Stafford the Bound Textilesaries of P la2018inweave II © Jane Stafford 2013 Page 12Page 11 Jane Stafford Textiles Master Sett142 Richard FlackChart Rd.