Gambeson Making Demystified Lady Hildegard Bergerin Barony of Grey Niche, Kingdom of Gleann Abhann What is a Gambeson? A gambeson is a layer of quilted defense, which may be used alone for protection, worn beneath chain mail, or beneath armor. What was a Gambeson made of in Period? Linen, wool, or cotton (in the East). Padding included wool, horsehair, scraps of cloth What style should I make the Gambeson? This depends on the desired use of the fighter, and on persona What Materials are Good for Making an SCA Gambeson? • Natural, breathable, sturdy materials! (i.e. linen, cotton) • Sturdy thread • Small bits of leather and leather ties for reinforced pauldron points How to Measure for a Gambeson Pattern? • Gambeson should fit closely to the fighter’s body, while still allowing for a full range of motion. Consider what the fighter will be wearing under the gambeson (garb, t-shirt, UnderArmor) and over the gambeson (chainmail, lamellar, cuirass, or something else). Are leather reinforced ties needed for pauldrons? Will bazubands be worn over the sleeves? How do the gorget and helmet fit in relation to the collar? • When measuring, remember to account not only for seam allowance, but also for quilting. I usually plan on “losing” 2-3 inches during quilting. Steps in Assembling a Gambeson There are different ways to do this, here is the way I assemble a gambeson. • Quilt all of the pieces, individually. Begin with inner/center lines and work out running the quilting seams in the same direction each time. It is possible to do the quilting after the pieces have been assembled, but why do that to yourself! • Trim and finish the edges • Sew front panels to back panel at the shoulders • Sew on collar • Sew open sleeves to front/back panel, centering at shoulder • Sew sleeve closed from wrist to within a few cm of underarm (if leaving a vent) • Sew front and back sides together from base to within a few cm of underarm (if leaving a vent) • If underarms are unvented, sew sleeve together beginning at wrist and continuing the seam to join front and back panels along the side • Attach ties, buttons, lacing, or buckles along front • Hand sew leather reinforcements for pauldron ties at appropriate point on shoulders • Prewash gambeson to remove chalk lines, blood, and tears…before cheerfully presenting it to the fighter, or walking onto the field Care of a Gambeson As with all garments, the life span of a gambeson will vary based on materials, frequency and intensity of use, and care. Here are some basics: • Allow the gambeson to air out, i.e. don’t leave it wadded up, sweaty/damp in an armor box or trunk • Machine wash, gentle cycle. • While air-drying is ideal, our humid climate prevents this from being an effective option (mildew-eewww!), drying on a low setting may take a while but is worth the time in terms of preserving the gambeson life span. Lagniappes for an Extra Happy Fighter • Underarm vents • Nice color(s), consider letting them choose • Decorative quilting pattern along sleeve cuffs and bottom hem • Reversibility • Natural batting- Cotton is easy to find, wool can be ordered online (poly is inviting heat related issues) • Not being upset when armor bite, or mail tears happen Hildegard’s Basic Gambeson Pattern Lady Hildegard Bergerin 13 July 2016 Pattern Pieces & Dimensions (will vary based on body measurements) Collar Collar Padding Cut 1 Outer Layer Back Front w=13” l=19” ñCut 1 Batting w=32” w=16” w=3” l=18’ l=52” l=52” Cut 1 each notch= 5” of -Lining Cut 2 each Sleeve -Batting of Cut 2 -Outer -Lining 22” (of all) 10” layer -Batting L=24” -Outer layer Suggested Cutting Layout for 58-60” Wide Fabric Collar Padding Back Front Front Collar ñCut 1 Batting only Sleeve Sleeve Materials • 2 ½ -3 yds 58-60’ wide Outer Fabric (Suggest Heavy Linen or Heavy Cotton) • 2 ½ -3 yds 58-60’ wide Lining/Inner Fabric (Suggest Linen esPecially for warm climates) • 1 King-size cotton or wool batting (more dePending on thickness of batting and desired thickness of gambeson) • 8 packages of standard poly/cotton quilt binding • 1 Package of double fold bias tape • Small Piece of leather and leather Punch • 1 yd leather lacing .