SF 271 .D29 1918 Copy 1 f Cheese Making Cheddar ^ Swiss Brick Edam Limburger Cottage, etc. DECKER SAMMIS a class ST.e^/ Book , Al &%— finiyrighfN \°i ) f COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. Each cheese was made ' ', : fl '.\OF,U llih i-'i.u inw i --* Mm mmmmmB stfi'/w IH.ft Fig. 1. —The yield of cheese is closely related to the fat test of the milk used. CHEESE MAKING A Book for Practical Cheesemakers, Factory Patrons, Agricultural Colleges and Dairy Schools BY J. L. SAMMIS, Ph. D., ASSOCIATE PROFESSOR OF DAIRY HUSBANDRY, UNIVERSITY OF WISCONSIN Sixth Edition of Decker's Cheesemaking, Entirely Rewritten ILLUSTRATED MADISON, WIS. MENDOTA BOOK COMPANY I91K 6^ COPYRIGHT, 1900, BY J. W. DECKER COPYRIGHT, 1909, MENDOTA BOOK COMPANY COPYRIGHT, 1918, BY J. L. SAMMIS Cantwell Printing Company madison, wis. FEB -3 1019 'CI.A514042 PREFACE. Decker's "Cheesemaking" was published in 1893 for the use of students in the first American Dairy School, which had been established in 1891 at the Wisconsin College of Agriculture. The distinguished success of the book both in the English language and in a French translation by Emile Castele for French-Canadian cheesemakers, is a lasting tribute to the memory of its original author. Covering only cheddar cheesemaking in the first edition, the work was revised and enlarged by Professor Decker for three later editions. After his death it was again revised by Dr. F. W. Woll, one of Professor Decker's colleagues at the University of Wisconsin. The continued growth of the cheese industry in America, and the large number of foreign cheese varieties now being made here on account of decreased importations, have resulted in an increased demand for Deck- er's book among cheesemakers and dairy schools. The complete ex- haustion of the past editions has afforded an opportunity for rewriting and enlarging the book to meet present day needs. The new edition, as heretofore, is intended for use by cheesemakers and by Winter Dairy Students, who will study the general chapters in Part I, and the chapters in Part II, especially relating to the kinds of cheese which they intend to make. The numbering of sections in bold- face type, and the index, provide means for ready reference to all topics discussed. As a new feature of the present edition, the book has been enlarged in scope, and designed to form the basis for regular class work in agricul- tural schools and colleges. These students may begin with Part II, using chapters XX, XXI, VI (acidimeter), XXII, XXIII, VII (rennet) previous to the making of rennet cheese described in the later chap- ters. Before beginning American cheese (chaps. XXVII and XXIX) the rennet tests (chapter VI) should be studied, and while making American cheese and other varieties repeatedly in the work room, the class may study the remaining chapters of Parts I and II, thus utilizing the entire book, if time permits. Acknowledgment is due for the loan of cuts by the Wisconsin Experi- ment Station; The Marschall Dairy Laboratory of Madison, Wis.; Stoelting Bros., Kiel, Wis.; Brillion Iron Works, Brillion, Wis.; Creamery Package Mfg. Co., Chicago, 111.; Damrow Bros., Fond du Lac, Wis., and Louis F. Nafis, Chicago. The book is designed to meet the needs of cheesemakers, dealers, factory patrons, students and others interested in the subject of cheese- making. J. L. Sammis. Madison, July 1, 1918. To STEPHEN MOULTON BABCOCK, Ph.D., Sc.D., Chief Chemist of The Wisconsin Experiment Station Who, as a teacher, and later as a co-worker, by patient labor and wise counsel, inspired the author with a greater love for the profession of dairying, THIS BOOK IS INSCRIBED DR. STEPHEN MOULTON BABCOCK. Medal lo Dr. Babcock by Wisconsin legislature in 1899. TABLE OF CONTENTS Part I. General Facts for Cheesemakers. Chapter Page I —The Cheesemaker's Education 1 II —Production and Care of Milk on the Farm 5 III—Inspection of Milk at the Intake 9 IV—Conditions Affecting the Ripeness of Milk in the Vat 17 V—A Good Starter for Cheesemaking 21 VI—Tests for Ripeness of Milk, Whey, Starter, Curd, etc 25 VII— Calf Stomachs, Rennet Extract, Pepsin, etc 38 VIII—The Composition of Milk, Whey and Curd 44 IX—The Composition of Cheese 47 X—Cheese Tests for Moisture and Fat 49 XI—Cheese Judging and Scoring 55 XII—Planning Factories, Large or Small 63 XIII—Cheese Factory Management 68 XIV—Cheese Selling and Cheese Boards 75 XV—Whey Cream and Whey Butter 78 XVI—Payments for Cheese Factory Milk 83 XVII—Conditions Affecting Cheese Curing 93 XVIII—Cleanliness in the Cheese Factory 100 XIX—The Food Value of Cheese 103 Part II. Cheese Varieties, Their Classification and Manu- facture. Chapter XX—Method of Classifying Cheese Varieties 105 XXI—The Making of Casein 111 XXII—Cottage Cheese 117 XXIII—Cured Cheese from Sour Milk Curd. Hand Cheese, Sap Sago. Experiments on Curdling Temperatures, 124 XXIV—Fresh, Soft Rennet Cheese. Junket. Neufchatel. Skim Milk Neufchatel in Loaves. Coulommier 131 XXV—-Soft, Ripened Rennet Cheese. Camembert. Brie. Limberger. Brick. Muenster 139 XXVI—Hard, Ripened, Rennet Cheese. Swiss. Edam. Gouda. 147 XXVII—American Cheese for Three Markets 159 XXVIII—Minor Sorts of American Cheese 167 XXIX—Details of American Cheese Making Process 181 XXX—Italian Cheese in America. Whey Cheese 217 XXXI—Primost 220 XXXII—Blue Veined Cheese Ripened With Molds Inside. Roque- fort, Stilton, and Gorgonzola i _. 223 PART I. GENERAL FACTS FOR CHEESEMAKERS CHAPTER I. THE CHEESEMAKER'S EDUCATION. (1) Aims. While working in the cheesefactory, or at the Dairy School, the young or old cheesemaker tries to learn (a) the best way to do each part of his work, (b) the reasons why, in every case, and (c) he will try to learn more than one way to do each operation, because different factories have different equipment, or emergencies may arise when the regular equipment can not be used, or special methods of handling curd may be advisable. (2) Sources of Information. The Winter Dairy School student has already had six months' experience as a helper in a factory, and has learned much from his employer and from visits to neighboring factories. At the Dairy School are gathered people from all parts of the country, from large and small factories, where different methods of making are used. By getting well acquainted and talking often with each other, students may learn much. Dairy papers, giving the cheese markets, factory and trade news, are published in New York, Chicago, Milwaukee, Michigan, Minnesota, Iowa, California, New Zealand, etc. Every student should examine these papers in the library, and subscribe to the one or more which he prefers. In addition to the books on Milk Testing and on Cheese- making which the student buys, there are in the agricultural library cheesemaking books in English, French, German, Danish, Spanish, Italian, etc. Bulletins from the U. S. Department of Agriculture, at Washington, D. C, from the Experiment Stations at Madison, Wis., Ithaca, N. Y., Geneva, N. Y., Ames, Iowa, 2 Cheese Making. St. Paul, Minn., and from other dairy states and foreign countries give valuable information. Instructors at the Dairy School will discuss every part of the work in class room and work rooms, and are glad to answer questions. A dairy society, meeting regularly, and holding weekly discussions on cheesemaking topics and other subjects is of great value to students, also affording practice in organizing and conducting meetings of factory patrons, in public speaking, etc. (3) The Student's Duty. Be prompt at all classes. Pay close attention so as not to need to be told twice. Write down all that is new to you, because (1) facts are presented too fast to be remembered, (2) writing them down helps one to remember, (3) written notes can be studied over and reviewed when needed. Just as you have a daily schedule of class work, arrange for yourself a fixed plan for daily study. Take a short brisk walk out of doocs daily and a long walk at least once a week, for your health Eat moderately. Sleep with windows open. "Personal cleanliness* is of the first and highest impor- tance with factory operators. Keep your body clean and your mind clear. Dirt and ignorance cost the dairy industry millions of dollars annually. Each student should take a thorough bath at least once a week. There is no excuse for lack of cleanliness. See that your underclothes as well as your overalls are always clean through frequent changes. Each morning before appearing in the class room, the student will give his hands and finger nails special attention and in all respects be in suitable form for creamery and cheese- factory inspection. In general, we hope in our Dairy School to teach not only how to make butter and cheese but to inculcate habits of great personal neatness, and an intense desire to have everything about the factory clean, tidy and in business form." (4) Experience in Many Lines. In a commercial factory, the helper is sometimes kept busy upon a narrow line of work, as washing hoops or cans, and has little chance From "Advice to Students" by Prof. E. H. Farrington. The Cheesemaker's Education. 3 to learn other parts of the work. At the dairy school, in- struction is given in all parts of the work. The maker in a factory must do his own work, and also be prepared to give advice to his patrons on many subjects connected with dairy farming, factory business, etc. The dairy school student should therefore try to learn all he can about the following subjects, among otjhers.