Scouring Recipe

Scouring Recipe

Wada’s workshop is about many lesser known magical qualities of silk. We will explore silk proteins and crepe yarns for shrinkage, transparency, opacity, and permanent textures. The scientific explanations and recipes offered will support creative exploration led by Yoshiko I. Wada. We will have fun with imprinting memories on pliable surfaces by means of forces applied to shaped cloth/canvas – traditional Japanese shibori techniques. Additionally, a variety of depth and shades of colors may be layered by reactive dye as well as natural dye (except indigo) over protein and cellulose fibers.This workshop is intended for students with some understanding of fabric and fiber as well as basic hand and machine sewing skills and basic dyeing. Please read pages 175-181 Memory on Cloth for further information. SILK SCOURING (DEGUMMING) RECIPE The scouring process removes the sericin (protein) coating from the silk fiber. For this process, you must use a silk fabric or fiber which still contains sericin. Fabrics containing sericin: Gunma Silks (crepe greige goods) Silk Organza or Gazzar (heavy wedding dress organaza) Choshi or kibiso, beginning of ilc cocoons when it is being reeled. (sericin is still on the fiber) 1. Weigh the fabric [ex. fabric weight : 50g] 2. Calculate amount of Soda Ash: 8 to 10% of fabric weight (depends on the weave structure and weight and thickness of of fiber or fabric. [ex. if fabric weighs 50g, use 5g soda ash] 3. Calculate amount of water in cc: 40x weight of fabric [ex. If fabric weighs 50g, use 2000cc of water 4. Mix soda ash in water, the solution should have pH of 10 5. Bring to a boil and then simmer for about 30 minutes, stirring periodically 6. Rinse fabric well in mild detergent. 7. Soak in a vinegar solution and rinse. (or 56% ACETIC ACID, 0.5 L IS ENOUGH, ANY ​ BRAND) .

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