Sewing SKILL STANDARDS Sewing is a creative skill. It can be an art with time, skill perfection, and the ability to make wise decisions. The following list of standards is designed to help evaluate and determine suitable sewing techniques. There is rarely only one method of doing something. Many times, however, there is a best way. The "best" sewing technique/method should always be determined by the fabric being used and the specific garment situation. FABRIC COORDINATION & SELECTION Fabric(s) selected for garment construction should: * be suited to the pattern design (read pattern envelope for information concerning one-way designs, napped fabrics, knits, etc.; inexperienced individuals should follow recommended fabrics listed on the pattern envelope) * have the same care characteristics (fabrics, trims and supportive fabrics should all be consistent in terms of care technique) or an easy method of removal at time of laundering/dry-cleaning * be flattering to the personal characteristics of the individual * coordinate with one another in terms of design, color, weight, and texture * appear to have balanced grain (woven fabrics--lengthwise and crosswise threads will be at right angles) FABRIC PREPARATION Fabrics properly prepared for garment construction should be: * Preshrunk (laundered or dry-cleaned) and/or prewashed according to recommended method of care. * Thread perfect--lengthwise and crosswise threads at right angles to one another; pull thread on woven fabrics and cut along line formed or cut along a wale or course of knit fabric. * Made "piece perfect"--lengthwise and crosswise ends at right angles if at all possible. STITCHING By HAND: A well-made hand stitch will: * Be composed of a thread type, weight/thickness and color suitable and appropriate to the situation for which it is used. Silk thread is the easiest to use and is especially good for basting as it does not leave indentations when pressed. Cotton, cotton/polyester, polyester and rayon sewing machine thread is acceptable. Buttonhole twist is used for hand-worked buttonholes. Heavier threads, such as embroidery, can be used for decorative stitching (saddle-stitching, etc.). Use white or light-colored thread when basting as dark colors can leave permanent marks. Use same color, or as close as possible in color, when permanent stitching. * Have stitch formation which is appropriate to the fabric and garment situation for which it is used--see handout Hand Stitches for specific information. * Have thread ends appropriately secured at the beginning and ending of the stitching. If a knot is used: in permanent stitching it should be out of sight against an inside layer of fabric; in basting, the knot can be visible. If backstitching is used: thread should be secure with thread ends hidden between layers of fabric. Area where backstitching is done should be neat. * Use single or double thread appropriate to the situation--see handout Hand Stitches for specific information. Generally speaking, a double thread is used when hand stitching except when basting. * Be neat and well formed, appropriately spaced and secured with no thread-ends showing or unsightly thread "mess" visible. By MACHINE: A well-made machine stitch will: * Have thread type, needle size and type appropriate to the fabric and situation for which it is used. Generally speaking, the finer the fabric, the finer the needle and thread. Thread expands to, or takes up the entire area created by the needle; there are no excessive holes created by the needle. * Be a controlled, consistent length appropriate to the fabric and situation for which it is used. As a general rule, the heavier the fabric, the longer the stitch; the lighter weight the fabric, the shorter the stitch. Within this rule adjustments are made according to fabric texture and structure. * Have top and bottom threads equally balanced--look the same on both sides of the fabric-- appropriate thread tension. Stitching is not puckered on either side. * Have stitching is even in length and appropriate to the fabric and stitching situation. * Be the type of stitching (regular sewing machine or overcast/serger) or stitch pattern (standard or decorative) appropriate to the fabric and situation for which it is used. * Be appropriately secured at the beginning and end of the line of stitching (backstitched, threads tied and clipped). * Be spaced an appropriate distance from the edge of the fabric according to the function of the stitching. * Be neat, straight and fits the purpose for which it was done (functional or decorative). PRESSING Evidence of good pressing: * The original texture of the fabric is maintained. * No shine or press marks show on right side of fabric. * No wrinkles or crinkle areas appear on smooth-surfaced fabric. C-25 * Seams and darts pressed smoothly on the stitching line. Fabric does not fold over the stitching line or stitching line or look bubbled. Edges of seam allowances and fold edges of darts do not form ridges on the right side of the garment. * No water-spot or steam marks are visible. * Helps to create and maintain the proper shape and curve to the garment as well as the various garment segments (collar, sleeve, etc.). * Provides a nice, neat finish to the inside and outside of the garment. SEAMS A well-constructed seam should be: * Smooth and even in appearance on inside and outside of garment. Machine tension, stitch length and presser foot pressure is properly adjusted to suit the fabric and thread. * Even in width throughout. * Pressed open or according to type of seam and/or how it will be used in garment construction. * Stitched with thread appropriate to fabric type, fiber content, and color. (Thread color should match or be slightly darker than fabric.) SEAM FINISHES A well-constructed seam finish/edge finish should: * Be neat and smooth in appearance; does not add bulk. * Be appropriate to the fabric. * Protect area and/or prevents edge from raveling/stretching. * Not be visible from the right side of the garment. DARTS, EASE, GATHERS, PLEATS, SHIRRING, TUCKS A well-constructed fitting dart should: * Be directed toward the body curve. * Usually end 1/2 to 1-inch from the fullest part of the body curve. * Be tapered so it is smooth and free of puckers. * Be even and smooth in appearance. * Be pressed before being crossed by another line of stitching, and after the garment has been fitted. Uncut horizontal darts are pressed down; uncut vertical darts so that the fold is toward the center front or center back. * Have threads secured at both ends by tying a knot, lock stitching or backstitching (use only on medium to heavy fabric or in seamline). Well-constructed gathers, pleats and tucks should: * Be evenly distributed and/or in accordance with pattern directions. C-26 * Be even and smooth in appearance. * Pleats have ease for comfort but appear as a straight silhouette. * Tucks provide relaxed but defined fullness. They may be used in place of gathers or fitting darts. INTERFACING A suitable, well-applied interfacing: * Is appropriate to the fashion fabric in terms fiber content/care, construction type (knit, woven, non-woven) and manner applied (sew-in vs. fusible). Interfacing fabrics can range from commercially designed interfacing fabric to self-fabric. * Should be, or have, the same "grain" or "give" as the fashion fabric with which it is used. * Should coordinate in color as closely as possible. Use light color with light-colored fashion fabrics, dark with dark. * Provides the appropriate support or reinforcement needed to improve shape of garment or area. Interfacing is used in the appropriate locations in a garment. * Does not alter color or hand of fashion fabric. If an appropriate weight cannot be found, it is best to go lighter than heavier. * Appears flat and smooth; no bubbles, wrinkles, or folds. * Should not be visible or noticeable from the outside/right side of the garment. * May vary in type and weight within the same garment. Multiple types and weights of interfacing should be used depending on the area and function. FACINGS A well-constructed fitted facing should: * Fit smoothly. Neither the neckline seam nor the facing should show from the outside of the finished garment (unless it is designed to be stitched to the outside as a decorative as well as functional piece). * Be the same shape and grain as the edge to be faced. (It is usually 2 1/2 to 3-inches wide and even in width throughout.) * Be flat and smooth; free from bulk. * Have the outside edges appropriately finished (according to fabric type/weight) to prevent raveling. * Be securely held in place by understitching and tacking at seams or by top stitching. A professional looking facing will never be hand stitched all the way around. * Be interfaced to prevent stretching and sagging, to cushion the enclosed seam, reinforce area, support the facing and garment, and to provide shape. C-27 COLLARS A well-applied collar should: * Be smooth and free from wrinkles. The outer edge seam should not be visible from the right side. * Have smooth curves or sharp points depending on the type and style of the collar. Bulk has been properly distributed through grading/layering, notching, clipping and/or trimming. * Fit neckline area without unsightly gaps or wrinkles. * Be interfaced properly to maintain shape. * Understitched on outer seam edge if needed. * Be well pressed. BUTTONS & BUTTONHOLES Well-constructed buttons and buttonholes should: * Be neat in appearance on the right and wrong side of the garment. Buttons should: * Fit the purpose to which they are intended--functional or decorative. * Be securely fastened with double thread and neat stitches. * Have a shank (thread or as part of button) to accommodate the thickness of the fabric layers. * Be reinforced, according to use (heavy-duty vs.