02_57664x ftoc.qxd 1/20/05 7:39 PM Page iii Contents List of Maps vi What’s New in Amsterdam 1 1 The Best of Amsterdam 4 1 The Best Amsterdam 2 Best Hotel Bets . .9 Experiences . .6 3 Best Dining Bets . .10 2 Planning Your Trip to Amsterdam 12 1 Visitor Information . .12 5 Travel Insurance . .24 Destination Amsterdam: 6 Health & Safety . .25 Red Alert Checklist . .13 7 Specialized Travel Resources . .27 2 Entry Requirements & 8 Planning Your Trip Online . .31 Customs . .13 Frommers.com: The Complete 3 Money . .15 Travel Resource . .32 What Things Cost in 9 The 21st-Century Traveler . .33 Amsterdam . .16 Online Traveler’s Toolbox . .34 The Euro, the U.S. Dollar & 10 Getting There . .34 the British Pound . .17 4 When to Go . .17 11 Tips on Accommodations . .42 Amsterdam Calendar 12 Recommended Books . .42 of Events . .19 3 Getting to Know Amsterdam 45 1 Orientation . .45 2 Getting Around . .52 Your Passport to Amsterdam . .46 Bicycling in Amsterdam . .59 Neighborhoods in Brief . .49 Fast Facts: Amsterdam . .60 4 Where to Stay 67 COPYRIGHTED1 In the Old Center . .69 6MATERIALAround Museumplein & Family-Friendly Hotels . .73 Vondelpark . .85 2 Along the Canal Belt . .78 7 In Amsterdam East . .91 3 Around Leidseplein . .83 8 In Amsterdam South . .92 4 Around Rembrandtplein . .84 9 Near the Airport . .93 5 In the Jordaan . .85 02_57664x ftoc.qxd 1/20/05 7:39 PM Page iv iv CONTENTS 5 Where to Dine 95 1 A Taste of Amsterdam . .96 7 In the Jordaan . .122 Secrets of the Rijsttafel . .99 Tea, Coffee, Cakes & In Search of Gezelligheid . .100 Ice Cream . .124 2 Restaurants by Cuisine . .101 8 Around Museumplein & Vondelpark . .124 3 In the Old Center . .103 9 In Amsterdam East . .129 4 Along the Canal Belt . .111 10 In Amsterdam South . .130 Family-Friendly Restaurants . .116 11 In Amsterdam West . .131 5 Around Leidseplein . .117 12 In Amsterdam North . .131 6 Around Rembrandtplein . .119 Quick Bites . .120 6 Exploring Amsterdam 132 Suggested Itineraries . .132 At Home in the Harbor . .163 1 The Big Three . .134 7 Green Amsterdam . .163 The Canals . .135 8 Offbeat & Alternative 2 More Museums & Galleries . .140 Amsterdam . .165 3 Historic Buildings & 9 Modern Art Galleries . .167 Monuments . .151 10 Especially for Kids . .168 Behind the Gables . .152 11 Organized Tours . .169 4 Sights of Religious Biking on the Water . .171 Significance . .157 A High-End Guide . .173 5 Multimedia Attractions . .159 12 Staying Active . .173 6 Minor Museums . .162 7 Strolling & Bicycling in Amsterdam 177 Walking Tour 1: Walking Tour 4: The Golden Age Canals . .177 The Jewish Quarter . .192 Walking Tour 2: Bike Tour: The Old Center . .183 Along the Amstel River . .196 Walking Tour 3: The Jordaan . .188 8 Shopping 199 1 The Shopping Scene . .199 2 Shopping A to Z . .206 Say it With Flowers . .204 3 Street Markets . .216 02_57664x ftoc.qxd 1/20/05 7:39 PM Page v CONTENTS v 9 Amsterdam After Dark 218 1 The Performing Arts . .219 Smoking Coffeeshops . .232 2 The Club & Music Scene . .222 4 The Red Light District . .234 3 The Bar Scene . .226 Rooms With a View . .235 Message in the Bottle . .229 5 More Evening Great Dutch Drinks . .230 Entertainment . .235 10 Side Trips from Amsterdam 238 1 Haarlem . .238 6 Den Helder & Texel . .255 2 Zandvoort . .243 7 Castle Country . .257 3 The IJsselmeer . .245 8 The Hague . .259 By the Side of the Zuiderzee . .246 9 Rotterdam . .263 By Bicycle to Hoorn . .251 Grand Harbor . .267 4 Zaanse Schans . .252 10 Delft, Leiden & Gouda . .268 5 Tulips & Cheese . .253 Appendix A: Amsterdam in Depth 276 1 Amsterdam’s Origins . .276 4 The 19th Century to Dateline . .276 the Present . .287 Below Sea Level . .279 5 When in Amsterdam . .291 2 The Reformation . .281 6 Golden Age Art . .292 3 The Golden Age . .283 Appendix B: Useful Terms & Phrases 296 1 Basic Vocabulary . .296 2 Dutch Menu Savvy . .298 Index 301 General Index . .301 Restaurant Index . .308 Accommodations Index . .307 02_57664x ftoc.qxd 1/20/05 7:39 PM Page vi List of Maps Amsterdam Orientation 5 Walking Tour: The Old Center 185 Amsterdam Neighborhoods 50 Walking Tour: The Jordaan 189 Central Amsterdam Walking Tour: The Jewish Accommodations 70 Quarter 193 Museumplein Area & Amsterdam Bike Tour: Along the Amstel South Accommodations 86 River 197 Central Amsterdam Dining 104 Haarlem 239 Museumplein Area & Amsterdam Side Trips: The Randstad 240 South Dining 126 The Hague & Scheveningen 261 Central Amsterdam Attractions 136 Rotterdam 264 Museumplein Area & Amsterdam Delft 269 South Attractions 142 Leiden 271 Amsterdam East Attractions 160 Gouda 274 Walking Tour: The Golden Age Canals 179.