HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC, 130 Campus Drive, Edison, NJ 08818 732-225-1900; 800-255-0343; Fax 732-417-1744 [email protected] 1220 Nicholson Road, Newmarket, Ontario Canada L3Y 7V1 800-399-6858; Fax 800-363-2665 The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England 01865-361122; Fax 01865-361133 ISBN 1-55650-860-3 © 1999 Earl Brechlin All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, or by any means, elec- tronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the written permission of the publisher. This guide focuses on recreational activities. As all such activities contain elements of risk, the publisher, author, affiliated individuals and compa- nies disclaim any responsibility for any injury, harm, or illness that may occur to anyone through, or by use of, the information in this book. Every effort was made to insure the accuracy of information in this book, but the publisher and author do not assume, and hereby disclaim, any liability for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading informa- tion or potential travel problems caused by this guide, even if such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident or any other cause. Cover photo: Acadia National Park shorleine, Bob Thayer All other photos by author, unless specified. Maps by Kim André, © 1999 Hunter Publishing, Inc. 1234 Apart from any fair dealing for the purposes of research or private study, or criticism or review, as permitted under the relevant copyright, designs and patents acts, this publication may only be reproduced, stored or transmitted, in any form or by any means, with the prior permission in writing of the publisher. eBooks Corporation www.hunterpublishing.com Hunter’s full range of guides to all corners of the globe is featured on our exciting website. You’ll find guidebooks to suit every type of trav- eler, no matter what their budget, lifestyle, or idea of fun. Log on and join the excitement! Adventure Guides – There are now over 40 titles in this series, covering destinations from Costa Rica and the Yucatán to Florida’s West Coast, New Hampshire and the Alaska Highway. Complete information on what to do, as well as where to stay and eat, Adventure Guides are tailor-made for the active trav- eler, with a focus on hiking, biking, canoeing, horseback riding, trekking, skiing, watersports, and all other kinds of fun. Alive Guides – This ever-popular line of books takes a unique look at the best each destination offers: fine dining, nightlife, first- class hotels and resorts. In-margin icons direct the reader at a glance. Top-sellers include: The Cayman Islands, St. Martin & St. Barts, and Aruba, Bonaire & Curaçao. Our Romantic Weekends guidebooks provide a series of escapes for couples of all ages and lifestyles. Unlike most “romantic” travel books, ours cover more than charming hotels and delightful res- taurants, featuring a host of activities that you and your partner will remember forever. One-of-a-Kind travel books available from Hunter include Best Dives of the Western Hemisphere; The African-American Travel Guide; Golf Resorts; Chile & Easter Island Travel Companion and many more. Full descriptions are given for each book, along with reviewers’ comments and a cover image. Books may be purchased on-line using our secure transaction facility. About the Author A registered Maine Guide who designed and built his own energy- efficient home, Earl D. Brechlin lives in Bar Harbor on Mount Desert Island. He is an avid hiker, backpacker and whitewater paddler and author of several guidebooks to Acadia National Park. During winter he enjoys snowshoeing and cross-country skiing in Acadia and snowmobiling near his vacation home in Greenville on Moosehead Lake. Brechlin has been the editor of the Bar Harbor Times, a weekly newspa- per, for 15 years. He is a past president of the Maine Press Association, a former Journalist of the Year in Maine, and is on the executive board of the New England Press Association. n n n n n Dedication To those who have come before. To those who will follow. Live the adventure. Contents Introduction 1 Discovering Maine 1 A Land of Fire & Ice 4 Minerals 4 Granite & Stone 5 Glaciers 6 Heaths 7 The Sea 8 Coastal Sentinels 9 Lobster Lore 13 Climate 18 Seasons 19 Tides 21 Beating the Tide 21 Fauna 22 Feathered Friends 23 Woodland Creatures 24 Calls of the Wild 25 Tracks & Other Evidence 27 Whales 27 Flora 29 Wildflowers 29 Alpine Flowers 29 Wild Berries 30 Forest for the Trees 31 Fall Foliage 34 Things that Go Bump in the Night 35 Insects 35 Reptiles 37 Mammals 37 At Sea 38 Plants 38 Two-Legged Varmints 38 History 40 Native Americans 40 Europeans 40 Modern History 41 Industrial Growth 43 Tourism 44 Political People 44 Ghosts & Legends 45 What’s In a Name? 47 vi n Adventure Guide to Maine The Name of Maine 47 Where is Down East? 48 Who Were the Acadians? 48 Place Names 49 Place Numbers 50 Stuff O’ Maine 51 Getting There from Here 51 Car Travel 52 Travel by Bus 57 Travel by Air 58 Travel by Ferry 60 US Customs 63 While You’re on the Road 64 Ayuh, Been Theyah 65 Maine Humor 65 How to Avoid Being Labelled a “Flatlander” 66 Other Things Visitors Should Know... 68 Parks & Preserves 68 State-Managed Lands 68 Public Reserve Lands 70 Adventuring In Maine 70 Hiking 70 Mountain Biking 76 Canoeing 78 Kayaking 82 Whitewater Rafting 87 Hunting 90 Fishing 95 Camping 101 Swimming 105 Skiing 105 Snowmobiling 108 The Price of Adventuring 114 Maine’s Top Ten Adventures 115 Outfitters & Guides 118 The Best Outfitters 118 Maine Guides 120 The Basics 121 Sleeping In 121 Dining Out 124 Special Needs 126 Country Fairs 127 When & Where 128 Antiques 131 The South Coast 133 Parks, Preserves & Beaches 134 Contents n vii State Parks 134 Beaches at a Glance 136 Wildlife Refuges 138 Natural Areas/Preserves 139 Sightseeing 141 Historic Sites/Museums 141 Lighthouses 149 Covered Bridge 150 Shopping 150 Outlets & Factory Stores 151 Antiques 151 Adventures On Foot 155 Hiking & Walking 155 Golfing 156 Adventures On Wheels 157 Mountain Biking 157 Foliage/Motor Tours 159 Riding the Rails 161 Adventures On Water 162 Whale Watching 162 Boat Trips, Charters 162 Deep-Sea Fishing 164 Places to Paddle 166 Scuba Diving 168 Parasailing 169 Fishing 169 Adventures In the Air 169 Hot Air Balloon Rides 169 Adventures On Snow 170 Cross-Country Skiing 170 Snowmobiling 171 Eco-Tours & Cultural Excursions 171 Ghost Tours 171 Apple Picking 171 Where to Stay & Eat 172 Favorite Restaurants 172 Brew Pubs/Microbreweries 175 B&Bs, Hotels & Motels 176 Camping 179 Maine’s Mid-Coast 189 Parks, Preserves & Beaches 190 State Parks 190 Beaches at a Glance 194 Wildlife Refuges 194 Natural Areas & Preserves 195 Sightseeing 199 viii n Adventure Guide to Maine Historic Sites/Museums 199 Lighthouses 206 Shopping 208 Antiques 208 Adventures On Foot 213 Hiking & Walking 213 Golfing 215 Adventures On Wheels 216 Mountain Biking 216 Foliage/Motor Tours 216 Riding the Rails 220 Adventures On Water 222 Windjammer Cruises 222 Whale Watching 225 Boat Trips, Charters 226 Deep-Sea Fishing 229 Places to Paddle 230 Parasailing 233 Adventures In the Air 233 Air Charter/Transport 233 Adventures On Snow 234 Downhill Skiing 234 Cross-Country Skiing 234 Snowmobiling 235 Adventures On Horseback 235 Eco-Tours & Cultural Excursions 235 Where to Stay & Eat 237 Favorite Restaurants 237 Brew Pubs/Breweries 240 B&Bs, Hotels & Motels 240 Camping 243 Down East Coast 249 Parks, Preserves & Beaches 251 Acadia National Park 251 State & Town Parks 267 Beaches at a Glance 269 Wildlife Refuges 270 Natural Areas/Preserves 271 Sightseeing 272 Historic Sites/Museums 272 Lighthouses 278 Shopping 280 Antiques 280 Adventures On Foot 282 Hiking & Walking 282 Rock Climbing 283 Contents n ix Golfing 284 Adventures On Wheels 285 Mountain Biking 285 Foliage/Motor Tours 286 Adventures On Water 290 Whale Watching 290 Boat Trips, Charters 291 Deep-Sea Fishing 293 Places to Paddle 294 Scuba Diving 299 Guided Trips 300 Adventures In the Air 300 Scenic Flights & Glider Rides 300 Adventures On Snow 301 Cross-Country Skiing 301 Snowmobiling 301 Eco-Tours & Cultural Excursions 302 Bird Watching/Nature Tours 302 Lumberjack Show 303 Apple Picking 303 Blueberry Picking 303 Where to Stay & Eat 304 Favorite Restaurants 304 Brew Pubs/Microbreweries 307 B&Bs, Hotels & Motels 308 Camping 310 Alexander 310 Western Mountains 317 Parks & Preserves 318 National Parks 318 State Parks 320 Wildlife Refuges 320 Natural Areas/Preserves 321 Sightseeing 322 Historic Sites/Museums 322 Covered Bridges 328 Shopping 329 Antiques 329 Adventures On Foot 330 Hiking 330 Rock Climbing 333 Golfing 333 Adventures On Wheels 334 Mountain Biking 334 Foliage/Motor Tours 336 Riding the Rails 339 x n Adventure Guide to Maine Adventures On Water 340 Places to Paddle 340 Adventures In the Air 342 Air Charters 342 Adventures On Snow 343 Downhill Skiing 343 Cross-Country Skiing 345 Snowmobiling 346 Adventures with Pack Animals 347 Llama Trekking 347 Eco-Tours & Cultural Excursions 347 Mushing 347 Panning for Gold 348 Rock Hounding 348 Apple Picking 348 Blueberry Picking 349 Where to Stay & Eat 349 Favorite Restaurants 350 Brewpubs/Microbreweries 351 B&Bs, Hotels & Motels 352 Camping 354 Mid-Maine 365 Parks & Preserves 366 State Parks 366 Wildlife Refuges 366 Preserves/Natural Areas 369 Sightseeing 369 Historic Sites/Museums 370 Covered Bridges 378 Shopping 378 Antiques 378 Adventures On Foot 379 Hiking 379 Golfing 380 Adventures On Wheels 382 Mountain Biking 382 Foliage/Motor