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For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. David Carroll and Nóirín Hegarty for letting me OUR READERS go skiing for a living. And massive gratitude to Many thanks to the travellers who used the my husband, Bill, who unfailingly supports me last edition and wrote to us with helpful when the need for a solo adventure strikes. hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Trent Holden Kim Aeran, Rod Bennett, Martina Bieri, Larry Thanks first up to Megan Eaves for giving me Cannon, DongKwon Choi, Abilio Gomez, Molly the opportunity to work on Korea – a wonder- Harder, Kim Ha-ye-ram, Kenneth Holmes, ful gig – as well as to my co-authors, especially Maria Kamsäter, David Kerkhoff, Dan Krech- Simon for all the help and tips along the way. mer, Maureen Liston, Melanie Luangsay, A shout out to all the good folk I met on the Marcos Mendonca, Serhat Narsap, Triin Saag, road and shared a beer with. But as always my Nico Scherer, Susanne Stigsson, Hal Swindall, biggest thanks goes to my beautiful girlfriend Charlotte Toolan, Jennifer Ward, Wim West- Kate, and my family and friends who I miss ervoorde, Julie Woods back home in Melbourne. Rebecca Milner AUTHOR THANKS A huge thank you to my husband Chikara, as always, for your company and support. To Simon Richmond Ashley and Pedro for your invaluable help and Many thanks to my fellow authors, as well as friendship. To Hyo Yun Kim, the best TIC lady in Maureen O’Crowley and Kim Daegeun at Seoul the country. And thank you to Seunghyo, Peter, Tourism, Seunghyo Lee, Daniel Durrance, David, Robert, Luis, Su Bae Yang, Cho Seung-ki, Charles Usher, Alistair Gale, Joshua Hall, Kim Keun Su, Choi, Mori, Rachel, Calen, Jae Joshua Davies, Joshua Park, David and Jade Hyeon, Ted, Morgan, Jonathan, Moon Yumi, Kilburn, Robert Koehler, Monica Cha, Becca Will, another Ashley, my inspiring co-authors Baldwin, Daniel Lenaghan and Julia Mellor. and my ever-patient editor Megan. Megan Eaves Phillip Tang Many thanks are due to the outstanding Thanks to the travellers and locals who shared authors on this project who let me into their their experiences, the very helpful ladies at chapters and were flexible in working with me Cheongju tourist information centre, and to make the winter activities great. Thanks to Megan Eaves for having me on board. Thanks 409 to Jack Kennerley for Tour Le Jours taste insights. And, my understanding friends in testing, the abandoned theme park and Busan, Tae-ho, Kim, Levi and Richard. Thanks. Bone Henge. Big thanks to Daniel Belfield for four seasons on one train, oh they have popcorn, and jjimdak sharing. Cheers to ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Pukyong National University and Do Be for Cover photograph: Young woman in tradition- lending a hand. Muchas gracias to Ernesto A. al attire, Seoul; Jim Zuckerman/Alamy BEHIND THE SCENES Alanis Cataño, Vek Lewis, Da Sel Lee and Lisa N’Paisan. Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Rob Whyte Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Many thanks to many good folk. In Seogwipo, Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Mrs Lee at the tourism office and Mr Kim at Sciences, 11, 1633–44. the ferry terminal went way out of their way to help me understand schedules and routes. Mrs Kim inside the Tongyeong passenger ferry terminal for her patience. Ian for his Destination Editor Book Designer THIS BOOK Megan Eaves Michael Buick This 10th edition of Lonely Product Editor Cover Researcher Planet’s Korea guidebook Sarah Billington Campbell McKenzie was researched and written Assisting Editors Thanks to David Carroll, by Simon Richmond, Megan Andrew Bain, Bridget Blair, Simon Cockerell, Jo Cooke, Eaves, Trent Holden, Rebecca Helen Koehne, Kellie Langdon, Nóirín Hegarty, Andi Jones, Milner, Phillip Tang and Rob Susan Paterson, Erin Richards, Katherine Marsh, Claire Mur- Whyte. The previous two Adela Shin, Jeanette Wall phy, Catherine Naghten, Karyn editions were also written Senior Cartographer Noble, Monique Perrin, Martine by Simon, with Shawn Low, Corey Hutchison Power, Samantha Russell-Tulip, Timothy N Hornyak, Yu-Mei Dianne Schallmeiner, Jaeyoon Balasingamchow and César G Cartographer Alison Lyall Shin, Ellie Simpson, Vicky Soriano. This guidebook was Smith, Angela Tinson, Lauren produced by the following: Wellicome ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 410 Index A palaces 43, 45, 380-1 Myeongsasim-ni 223 Busan International accommodation 18, Phoenix Island 245 Samcheok 145 Film Festival 24, 189 388-90, see also Seoul City Hall 45 Sangju 204 bushwalking, see hiking individual locations temples & palaces 43, Songdowon 322 business hours 17, 393 costs 389 45, 380-1 Woljeong Beach 243 Buyeo 286-9, 288 internet resources 390 area codes bears 206, 382, 384 Byeolsingut Talnori 178 language 402 North Korea 336-7 beer 77 Byeonsan-bando activities 23-4, 29-33, 128, South Korea 394 bicycle travel, see cycling National Park 273-4, see also individual art galleries, see galleries & birds 383 274 activities museums birdwatching 33 air travel arts Biyangdo 262 language 406 C North Korea 333-4 blogs 342 cable cars North Korea 337-8 South Korea 377-80 boat tours 173, 199 Geumgang Park 186 to/from Korea 397 ATMs 393 boat travel 397, 398 Hallyeosudo 200 within Korea 398 Bongeun-sa 54 N Seoul Tower & alcohol 371-2, see also Namsan 44-5 beer, rice wine, wine B books Baengnyeongdo 115-6 architecture 380 Palgong-san Skyline amusement parks 155-6 barbecue 367-8 culture 366 Aquaworld 303 camping 388 bargaining 19 food 370 Caribbean Bay 107 canoeing 33 baseball 365 history 340, 351, 352, Everland 107 car travel 399-400 basketball 365 354 Jeju Glass Castle 261 language 406 bath houses nature 385, 386 Legoland 124 cathedrals, see churches & Greenvill 149 North Korea 342 Lotte World 54 cathedrals Life Spa 149 Boryeong 289-90 Munsu Waterpark caves Tongyeong Sea Land 201 Boryeong Mud (North Korea) 315 Gosu Donggul 303 Yulpo Haesu Festival 24, 289 Andong 176-8, 177 Hwanseongul 144 Nokchatang 222 Boseong 221-2 Andong Folk Village 176 Manjang-gul 242 bathrooms Buddhism 363 Andong Mask Dance Ryongmun Big Cave North Korea 337 budget Festival 176, 178 (North Korea) 322 South Korea 394 accommodation 389 animals 382-3, see also cell phones individual species beaches food 392 North Korea 336 Anyang Art Park 104 Bamseom Beach 290 North Korea 307 South Korea 16, 393-4 aquariums 54 Daecheon Beach 289 South Korea 17 Changdeokgung 43 Arario Museum Geomeolneomeo Bukaksan 52 Changgyeonggung 48 in SPACE 43-4 Beach 290 Bukchon Hanok Village 43 changing money 393 architecture 20, 380-1, see Gimnyeong Beach 241 bungee jumping 128 Cheomseongdae 159 also historic buildings Gugyedeung 223-4 bus travel 399, 400 Cheong-gye-cheon 10, 43, books 380 Gwangan 187 language 406 11, 66 contemporary and Gyeongpo Beach 137 Busan 35, 182-97, 184-5, Cheongju 294, postwar 381 Haeundae 187 188, 191, 192, 196 296-7 Chiaksan National Park Gangnam 62 Hakdong Mongdol accommodation 189-90 145-6, 145 hanoks 381, 2 Beach 198 climate 182 Chilbosan 325-6 Iho Tewoo Beach 234 food 182, 190-2 children, travel with Ilchul-bong Beach 245 highlights 183 North Korea 335 Map Pages 000 Jungmun Beach 255 history 183-4, 185 South Korea 84, 390 Photo Pages 000 Kkotji Beach 291 travel seasons 182 Chongjin 326 411 Christianity 363-4 D Ewha Womans glossary 373-6 Chuncheon 121-4, 123 Dadohae Haesang University 47 jeongsik 369 Chungcheongbuk-do 36, National Park 229-30 exchange rates kimchi 212, 368 293-305, 294 Daegu 148-58, 150-1, 153 North Korea 307 language 403-4 accommodation 293 Daein-sijang 214 South Korea 17 Namdo 213 climate 293 Daejeon 277-81, 278 seafood 127, 190, 368-9 food 293 Damyang 215-6 F street food 371 INDEX highlights 294 dangers, see safety fashion 18 vegan & vegetarian food travel seasons 293 Danyang 302-4, 303 ferries, see boat travel 372-3 Chungcheongnam-do 36, Dawon 379 festivals & events 23-4 foreign exchange 307, 393 C-G 276-92, 277 Demilitarized Zone Andong Mask Dance fortresses accommodation 276 Cheorwan 129 Festival 176, 178 Busosan-seong 286 climate 276 Gyeonggi-do 95, 98, 385 Baekje Cultural Geumjeong 186-7 food 276 North Korea 320-1 Festival 284 Gongsan-seong 283 highlights 277 Deokjeokdo 115 Boryeong Mud Hwaseong 101 history 277 Deoksugung 45 Festival 289 Jinju 202 travel seasons 276 disabilities, travellers with Busan International Moyang 272-3 Chungju 299-305 North Korea 337 Film Festival 189 Naganeup-seong Folk churches & cathedrals South Korea 395 Busan International Village 217 Fireworks Festival 189 Jeondong Catholic diving 33, 245 Namhansanseong 104 Chuncheon Church 265