TAKEOFF DRINK THE BEST VINEYARDS OF PA S O ROBLESBY EMManUel LUpe alfway between the two main California metropolises of Los Angeles and San Francisco lies Paso Robles wine country. Located along California’s famed Central Coast, the Paso Robles wine grape growing region’s climate is perfect for the production of award- winning premium wines. A long growing season of warm days H and cool evenings give rise to vibrantly ripened fruit with dynamic flavor profiles that translate beautifully in your glass of Paso Robles wine. includingTraversing the the area’s landscape, heritage you variety will find Zinfandel. 26,000 vineyard The distinct acres, microclimates producing more and soils,than 40combined wine grape with varieties warm days- from and Spanish cool nights,to Italian make and growingBordeaux conditions to Rhône, ideal for producing these diverse styles of wine. Paso Robles was named for its local oak trees, El Paso de Robles, or “The padres of San Miguel sowed wheat, and the city was founded on the rancho Pass of the Oaks.” The name was recorded in 1828 as a rancho where the shortened to Paso Robles. The Paso Robles American Viticultural Appellation in 1886 and incorporated in 1889. Today the city’s name is commonly (AVA) is home to more than 180 wineries. In the June 30, 2005 issue of Wine theAdvocate, limestone Robert hillsides M. Parker, west Jr.of assertsPaso Robles “there will is no be question as well knownthat a decadeas the glamorousfrom now, thevineyards top viticultural of Napa Valley.” areas of Santa Barbara, Santa Rita Hills and Robles, but after several visits to the area and meetings with the winemakers, looking Among at their all thewineries, vineyards, terroirs, it was and difficult of course to selecttasting the their top most five offamous Paso #1:vintages, L’AVENTURE we came up with a list of five vineyards. Wine Advocate to go from strength: Five to strength, years after producing his first a fabulous98 ratings portfolio by Robert of wines Parker’s that makes L’Aventure for one his of2004 the bright,L’Aventure shining Red referenceEstate Cuvée, points Asseo for the continues region. This is one of the California Central Coast Superstars, and the wines are worth every cent. 1 I JetsetMag.com May . June 2012 I 2 TAKEOFF DRINK vines per acre. A meticulous regimen of leaf pulling, shoot thinning, #2: SAXUM VINEYARDS and cluster dropping result in benchmark yields of two to two and started making wine in Paso Robles, it was a sleepy Central Coast area. Now the wine region: In is1998, one whenof California’s 28-year-old fastest-growing. Justin Smith a half tons per acre. This equates to one bottle of wine per vine. In addition, Stephan’s drive for fully mature fruit allows the grapes West Paso has a magical combination of rocky limestone soils, rolling isto continuedfully express by handtheir sortingcharacter the in grape the form bunches of intense, as they concentrated come in. The hillsides and a not-too-cool climate that gives red Rhône varieties a wines. After the painstaking labor in the vineyard, quality selection winesfirm structure of distinctive to frame character, their depthrich, dark and personality.berry flavors. Smith, who the integrity of each source or parcel. Thermostatic control enables owns the 3,000-case Saxum winery with his wife Heather, creates grapes are then destemmed and vinified in small lots to maintain silky, rich wines as the result. Furthermore, aging in French oak, and In 2007, with a near-perfect vintage, Saxum’s wines reached athem minimal to manage racking premaceration program contribute and fermentation much to Stephan’s flawlessly, artisan, with new heights. In 2010, the 07 Saxum James Berry Vineyard received handcrafted style. isa 98focused rating onby theproducing Wine Spectator Grenache, who Syrah, elected and Saxum Mourvedre-based its #1 Wine The spirit of L’Aventure is most evident in Stephan’s “Paso of the year among the top 100 selected wines. Saxum Vineyards blends from the Templeton Gap/Willow Creek area of Paso Robles. blends” such as Optimus and Estate Cuvée. Both wines are Cabernet theirSaxum yields lets theirlow, picking rocky calcareous the fruit at soils, the peak steep of hillsides,ripeness, sunny and using days, a Sauvignon/Syrah blends. In these wines, as well as in the Rhône minimalistand cooling approach ocean breezes in the cellar.speak Theythrough respect their their wines land by and keeping farm adventurousblend Côte à spirit Côte, is the found blending the future of premium of Paso Robles varietals wines…great, increases the authenticity, complexity, and balance of the wines. In this everything sustainably without chemical fertilizers, herbicides or balanced red blends. The winery reflects L’Aventure’s commitment pesticides. Because Saxum’s vine’s roots penetrate deep through agriculture,to excellence. L’Aventure All of the winery equipment runs ison state solar of power the art, installed a perfect by the fissures in the calcareous soil, irrigation is rarely needed. Premierblend between Power. technology and tradition. In the spirit of sustainable Production is kept at 2200-2800 cases a year divided between six different cuvees: Broken Stones, James Berry Vineyard, Bone Rock, Booker Vineyards, Paderewski Vineyard and Heart Stone Vineyard. The James Berry Vineyard is the Smith family’s estate vineyard. It is located 10 miles from the Pacific Ocean with an average elevation #3:of 1200 WINDWARD feet. VINEYARD: Pinot Noir is the driving passion of Marc Goldberg and Maggie D’Ambrosia, husband and wife owners Stephan Asseo, owner and winemaker at L’Aventure Winery, of Windward Vineyard. Windward Vineyard is dedicated exclusively began making wine in 1982, following his education at L’Ecole isto theproducing couple’s Burgundianpassion. style Pinot Noir. To make the “Great familyOenologique later purchased de Macon, Chateau Burgundy, Fleur Cardinal,France. Saint-EmilionIn that same Grand year, American Pinot Noir,” one that rivals those produced in Burgundy, Stephan established Domaine Courteillac in Bordeaux. He and his based upon the terroir and microclimate of the Paso Robles west Marc and Maggie purchased and planted the vineyard in 1989 ofCru, fastidious and Chateau craftsmanship, Robin, in the and Cotes gained de a Castillion, reputation Bordeaux. as a maverick Over the next 15 years, Stephan developed into an artisan winemaker side. The combination of the cooling Pacific breezes, the calcareous AOC law would allow. soil and the 50 degree daily drop in temperature produce exemplary vigneron. However, his true desire was to be more innovative than acrePinot vineyard Noir. With is plantedthe Burgundian with four French notable term, French “Monopole” clones. vision of could pursue his ideal as a winemaker. After searching for over total control over both the vineyard and the winemaking, the 15- In 1996, this led him on a quest for a great terroir, where he Africa to Lebanon, and Argentina to Napa, Stephan found Paso SOLD Windward OUT vintages Vineyard have is dedicatedachieved toinspiring putting Paso acclaim, Robles’ particularly Pinot Noir a year among the world’s great wine fields, ranging from South back on the map. Since the 1993 debut in 1995, each of Windward’s Robles. Stephan immediately “fell in love” with the unique terroir. within the community of wine aficionados who appreciate the layered All L’Aventure vineyards are located on the western side of Highway #4:complexity TABLAS of CREEK Burgundian-styled VINEYARD :Pinot Tablas Noir. Creek Vineyard is the result Templeton101. The rolling Gap, alltopography combine ofto theproduce Santa a Lucia world Mountain class wine Range, country, the of a decades-long friendship between the Perrin family of Château deep calcareous soils, and the maritime influence of the renowned here, in Paso Robles, that Stephan began his adventure, “L’Aventure.” with the potential to craft some of the world’s greatest blends. It is de Beaucastel and Robert Haas, longtime importer and founder of Image courtesy of Ron Bez photography, www.ronbez.com districtVineyard of Brands. west Paso The Robles families for created its similarities a partnership to Châteauneuf in 1985 and du In order to maximize quality in L’Aventure’s harsh terroir, in 1989 purchased a 120-acre property in the hilly Las Tablas Stephan has established a high density plantation scheme of 2,100 3 I JetsetMag.com May . June 2012 I 4 TAKEOFF DRINK Image courtesy of Ron Bez photography, www.ronbez.com Pape: limestone soils, a favorable climate, and rugged terrain. The wines. Each varietal is hand-harvested when completely ripe and partners imported the traditional varietals grown on the Perrins’ fermented separately. The winemaking, including native yeast celebrated estate, including Mourvèdre, Grenache Noir, Syrah, fermentation and neutral French oak barrels, preserves the wines’ and Counoise for reds; and Roussanne, Viognier, Marsanne, and ties to their soil, climate, and varietal character. #5: LINNE CALADO: Tucked away on a private drive in a forest on-siteGrenache nursery, Blanc forand whites. used to These plant imported the organic vines estate passed vineyard. a rigorous 3-yearTablas USDA Creek’s testing wine program, production were ispropagated centered on and their grafted limestone- in the andof oak operated. trees andThe winerynative namevegetation, describes you thewill distinctive find Linne limestone Calado soilsWinery. present The wineryon the west was sideestablished of Paso Roblesin 1998 where and is all family of the ownedgrapes rich 120-acre organic estate vineyard. The warm days and cool nights allow Tablas Creek’s vines to gracefully ripen the Rhône “The distinct microclimates and soils, combined with warm days and cool nights, make growing conditions ideal for producing these diverse styles of wine.” varietals they grow. Tablas Creek vineyard practices emphasize balancedutilized to through make the the wineries’ blending 4,000 of Rhone annual and cases Zinfandel are grown.