EDITORS Susan B. Johnson Jana E. Miyahira-Smith Cartier at Prague Castle: most memorable specimens in this distinctive “Flora and Fauna”–inspired The Power of Style chapter are a platinum, diamond, and designs. Although the panther is one pearl Kokoshnik tiara, designed in of its most popular motifs, snakes, By the Prague Castle Admini - 1908, and a double fern-spray brooch. birds, and even crocodiles are master- stration, 322 pp., illus., publ. by “Avant-Garde and Art Deco” por- fully represented. Two of the most Flammarion, Paris, 2010. US$49.95. trays the transition from a monochro- remarkable examples in the chapter This impressive exhibition catalogue matic classic garland style to Art Deco are a pair of articulated yellow dia- was created for a celebration at the jewelry. Cartier achieved this transi- mond, emerald, and enamel tiger Prague Castle from July to October tion by introducing onyx into their motif ear clips sold to Barbara Hutton, 2010. Curated by Eva Eisler, the creations to give them more contrast and a realistic yellow diamond, ruby, unique exhibition of more than 400 and intensity. In 1915, Cartier began and emerald double-crocodile neck- objects included some of the most creating what was to become part of lace that was custom made for the iconic pieces amassed since the early their signature look, a panther motif Mexican actress Maria Felix. 1970s for the Cartier Collection. set with diamond and onyx to adorn a From the beginning, Cartier has The reader is taken on a fascinating delicate watch-brooch. The use of drawn upon eclectic tastes to create journey in the style of the red box jew- transparent elements such as rock noteworthy timepieces, ranging from eler. Eisler’s opening chapter notes crystal also allowed the design of size- early pocket watches to supremely how the exhibition was built on a rela- able fashionable brooches. elegant ladies’ wristwatches from the tionship between the chronology and Following the initiation of French 1930s. The most interesting pieces the aesthetics of the jewelry presented. Art Décos design, the reader is intro- displayed in this section are Model A Next, Pierre Rainero traces the ascen- duced to more exotic designs of the “Mystery Clocks” from 1912, so dance of Cartier from its humble begin- 1920s, when the zeitgeist demanded called because the platinum and dia- nings as a workshop of novelty dealers more color. Inspiration came from mond hands do not appear to be in the heart of 1847 Paris to a powerful archeological discoveries—notably linked to any mechanical movement. luxury brand that has maintained its Egyptian (scarab brooches, including Some objects shown in this section, international status on the cutting edge genuine antique blue faience)—as such as a semispherical clock built of fashion and the jewelry industry. well as the accessibility of travel to around a Persian ceramic miniature, After a brief chapter by Rony Pesl on Asia and the influence of royal Indian exemplify Cartier’s flair for reviving the design of the exhibit, the reader creations. In this genre, a most mag- antiquities. delves into the book’s core chapters, nificent example was the restoration One of this catalog’s main assets is starting with Pascale Lepeu’s overview of a ceremonial necklace created for the detail of its photos. Their defini- of the Cartier Collec tion of 1,400 the Maharajah of Patiala. The original tion is so fine that the reader can objects assembled to celebrate the included sizeable diamonds provided almost count each diamond on a given firm’s history and craftsmanship. This by the Maharajah himself. The dis- jewelry piece, determine the type of chapter provides interesting insights mantled necklace, discovered in Lon - setting, or estimate the size of a dia- into the acquisition of some of the fea- don, was patiently restored by Cartier, mond’s culet. The photos, which vary tured pieces, with detailed archival using cubic zirconia, rubies, and in scale, are consistent in their defini- documentation that further enhances smoky quartz to replace some of the tion and carefully annotated with brief the collection’s value. The following more precious stones. descriptions, measurements, and chapters, which chronologically unveil In the “New Modernity” chapter, provenance whenever possible. the jewelry presented in the exhibit, the catalog presents jewelry from the Jewelry sketches have rarely been are of the utmost interest for jewelry 1930s to the 1970s. The most stun- depicted with the precision displayed historians and Cartier aficionados. ning pieces include a pair of rock crys- in this book. Like the photos, they are Richly illustrated with archival tal and diamond “Gloria Swanson” lighted from the upper left, the tradi- photos and documents, “Jewelers to bracelets designed in 1930, and an tional format in jewelry rendering. Kings: The Reign of Diamonds” amethyst, turquoise, and diamond bib The superb quality of the collec- depicts early Cartier jewels, from necklace designed for Wallis Simpson tion displayed at the Prague Castle gold, silver, and diamond brooches to in 1947. During this period, Cartier’s makes this catalog a real must-have the first platinum and diamond pieces jewelry became more voluminous for jewelers, appraisers, and jewelry in the purest “garland” style at the and colorful. professionals who want to fully appre- turn of the 20th century. Two of the Cartier has always been known for ciate Cartier’s style from the early BOOK REVIEWS GEMS & GEMOLOGY SUMMER 2012 S1 Belle Époque to the most contempo- the magnificent ultramarine. Readers and contributors present an overview rary creations. will be entertained by pages devoted to of alexandrite mining in Russia’s Ural DELPHINE A. LEBLANC lapis-robed Madonnas in Renaissance Mountains, the naming and historical Hoboken, New Jersey painting and the gem’s use in multi- use of the gem, its characteristics, and colored inlay as pietra dura. its importance in the gem trade. The book’s 168 mostly color plates The author points out that alexan- portray relics, cave paintings, images drite has been mined since about 1833 Lapis Lazuli: In Pursuit of a from the author’s travels, and pieces and was named for young Alexander Celestial Stone from varied collections. These are Nikolaevich (later Czar Alexander III, By Sarah Searight, 228 pp., softcover, interspersed with images of the barren 1855–1881). Here he reproduces the illus., publ. by East and West Pub - regions where lapis has been mined first scientific publication on the gem lishing Ltd., London, 2010. US$42.00. for more than 6,000 years. A photo of and traces the history of two extraor- This book chronicles a love affair the author, a lone woman in a Pesha - dinary samples, the Leuch tenberg between author Sarah Searight and war lapis workshop, speaks volumes emerald druse and Kochubei’s druse. lapis lazuli, sparked in childhood by a about Searight’s passion and an era of Chapter 5 reviews morphology passage in a Robert Browning poem. travel that may have closed to all but and twinning. Dr. Schmetzer notes Searight follows her passion for lapis the most daring. The range of images that most alexandrites occur as repeat- from Central Asia’s remote moun- paints a picture as telling as the text of edly twinned crystals with pseudo - tains to global, multicultural renown. a gem worthy of obsession, and one of hexagonal dipyramidal habits. As is A journalist and historian, Sea - historic and multicultural depth. typical of the book, this chapter fea- right has lived much of her life in While the author interweaves her tures beautiful diagrams and photos of Asia and the Middle East, the latter travels and observations with serpen- real-world examples. region the subject of her previous tine backtracks through rulers and The chapter on mineralogical and books. To appreciate the author’s historical events with ease, the reader gemological properties includes obsession, the reader may need to dis- may find these meanderings and lengthy sections on structural proper- associate the recent troubles of this asides less than fluid. Despite its tan- ties (twinning and growth structures) region from the starry-sky object of gents, the book may fulfill the curios- and mineral and fluid inclusions in the author’s ardor. She terms it an ity of those seeking to understand the faceted stones. The majority of the eccentric pursuit, and that it is. historical importance of lapis, and mineral inclusions have been identi- The book is divided into two major will reward patient lapis enthusiasts fied by Raman spectroscopy as phlogo- parts. Searight begins in the East, who share the author’s passion for pite, while fluorite and apatite crystals recounting her travels to isolated this ancient and mysterious stone. were identified in a few samples. The mines where imperiled workers extract MATILDE PARENTE chapter concludes with a section on the brilliant blue rock from its moun - Libertine mineral assemblages, growth condi- tainous sanctuary, thus beginning its Indian Wells, California tions, and growth sequences. As the long and difficult journey to market. author notes, various studies have An accompanying map helps readers shown that the main occurrences of follow the convoluted journey lapis alexandrite are within emerald-bearing takes from Badakhshan across the eth- Russian Alexandrites ore bodies, also known as glimmerites, nic tapestry of ancient Mesopo tamia to By Karl Schmetzer, with contribu- in which it is possible to deduce two modern-day Central Asian republics of tions from George Bosshart, Marina stages of alexandrite crystallization. In Afghanistan, Tajikistan, Pakistan, Iran, Epelboym, Lore Kiefert, and Anna- the first stage, emerald and alexandrite and Iraq, and later to Siberia. Kathrin Malsy, 141 pp., illus., publ. formed within mica schist or a phlogo- Lapis may technically be a rock, by Schweizerbart Science Publishers, pite-rich host rock.