INSTRUCTIONS Hat Cleanin Renovatin g, g and Blocking t H a e of L o E" e e Give n b y a n E"pe r tt r ng p r i n ce I S S U E D B " TH E H ATTER S SUP PL "H OU SE A O I L L I N O I S C H I C G , NSTR U CT NS IN H A T L N N N N I IO C EA I G , R E O VA TI G A ND BL OC "ING é l General Information The hat cle a nl ng and renovating business is yet in its infancy and is constantly developing . A man will not throw away his hat worn a short time he knows that he can ‘ when NEW ha lf have it made for a or a third of the cost . There is another source of income for one who knows and is well fixed to do this work . There are thousands of the highest quality hats thrown away . You can pick them up near you E right and left . very hat store is full of them and hardly A knows what to do with them . hat , unlike clothes or shoes , is not worn out ; it only gets soiled , sweated , and out of shape . r c It can therefore be renovated many times , and become p a N W . tically E Such hats , renovated , can be easily sold to good advantage . i The difficulty in this work is that it requ res knowledge , experience , and a variety of tools . It requires some capital s. to start with . You can do nothing without tool You must 1 spend at least from to $ to start with . But you will have to keep on continually supplying and equipping your shO p if yo u want to make a success . The more tools b e you will have , the better and quicker you will able to pro duce your work . We advise in connection with this course to study thor hl g y our catalogue , where you will get an idea of the various tools and trimmings used . On page of the cata logue you will find a condensed list of tools that you must " have to start with . This is only in case you can t afford to get o u some more tools in the beginning ; but if y do , our advice would be rather to get all sizes of blocks instead of skipping h sizes . As you proceed along this course you will see t e use m a and necessity of each tool , but you y get along at first without some of them , which you will procure later as your n business progresses . But f start at once well Ub l ggqgfi C3 01 A 5 9 9 8 4 z equipped , you will do much better and be more sure of success . W hat concerns the knowledge necessary , we endeavor to explain herewith in smallest detail every phase of the work and give you the benefit of many years of experience , not only of our own , but of the best hatters in the country . As t for your experience , we have no doubt hat you will ge t it after practicing a little according to directions given and u sm g a little of your own ingenuity . Besides , we are always ready to explain and g ive m o re information on any point desired . We would advise beginners not to order their outfit until c they have gone through this ourse of instructions , as they will then be better able to make their selection of tools a c ding to the amount they are willing to invest . Some people think that with one block and some cleaning material W they can do all hats . This is absurd . hile we realize that it is impossible for a beginner to equip himself with all pos sible styles of blocks and flanges , yet he must confine himself na m e l z— to such styles that are mostly in use , y Columbia , G re a co Fedora , , Stiff Hat "Round and Square Crown", Panama and Straw . As to Flanges , we would recommend 1 4 . Flange No . as the most useful Other style Flanges you may order later as the requirements arise . Z— P rices Charged for Cleaning Hats W . hen customer brings hat , see the condition of it If not badly soiled a plain DRY C L EA NING will suffice without change of trimmings "band , binding and sweat leather", unless customer wants such change . The price of such a 1 . 2 5 job is usually from to $ . But if hat is in bad con dition a thorough scouring is necessary which cannot be done u without removing trimmings first . For s ch work is usually 50 — 1 . 1 7 5 charged $ , or $ . , that is , if same leather and band is put in ; i n case new trimming is wanted make an additional 7 5 charge of cents and up , according to the quality and width e for each band , binding and sweat l ather , or from to for one whole job , although you can really afford to do it cheaper . — 3 Cle aning of Soft Fe lt Hats, Black and C olore d we ll First brush hat , then clean it with Benzine or Gasoline . Various ways and methods are employed b y hatters in doing the cleaning , as the case requires . If hat is not badly soiled and the lower part of crown at the crease of the brim is not perspired , the easiest way is to block hat first , that is , to pull on hat on the proper size and W style of block , as described in the next section . hen this is well done dip sponge or brush in benzine and rub tip and cro wn e ve nl , o sides of ‘ y in a circular way otherwise , one sp t may be cleaned more than another and some streaks be L left . Then clean brim same way on both sides . eave it and on block to dry , then press finish hat as described in the ' ce e din . g sections Don t wet hat too much , only just C . the occasion may require , according to ondition of hat In case hat is perspired at crease of crown and brim , you cannot very well clean that part when it is fitted on block . It will be done better by rubbing with e sh or sponge dipped o u cleaning fluid while holding hat in hand , or y may put it on a block one size smaller than hat and rub tip and sides of crown as previously described . Then take it off and clean the crease of crown and brim . In case hat is badly soiled and perspired , in order to give it a thorough cleaning take out sweat leather and band and soak it over night in cleaning fluid ; this will take out all the perspiration or other substance and will clean the hat through W and through . hen taken out , give it a little rubbing with sponge and hang to dry . Some hatters do the scouring by putting hat in hot water and washing it thoroughly with Castile Soap . For taking out grease or other spots use Chloroform , or 8 make preparation as recipe in section 1 . Turpentine is well recommended for some spots . For cream , milk or blood spots only hot water should be used . For light hats do not use the same brush or sponge that b has een used for black hats , because it may affect the color . 4 — B o k n e l c i g , St aming and P ressing o f Hats After hat is cleaned and dried proceed with the block — ing , that is , the process of pulling hat on block and fitting it on tightly and smoothly so that no wrinkle is left any . place To do this the fur must be softened on steam . If sweat leather is not taken out , open it at joint where the bow is sewed on and turn leather out . Then pull hat on proper size and style of block , hold over steam for a little while and keep on pulling and fitting hat on block . Repeat this process several times , working hat with your hands until i it is all well f tted . The block should rest all the while on the Block Spin In ner . order to make the pulling and fitting on block easier , and more straight and uniform , there is a little wooden e . o tool call d Puller Down Put it on brim , h ld together with i u ll br m and p down . 1 0 n . P w No 7 . uller D o N 1 1 B ck inn 9 . S ". lo p er 1 4 " . 0 . R nn n 1 4 2 att s I n D w . H S h No u er o No . er ell ro When hat is all fitted to block and a ll wrinkles straight " ened out , tie a specially made Blocking Cord at the bottom of the crown near the brim . In order to have cord tight around crown , tie it somewhat higher up on crown then push it down with a little stick made for that purpose , called " Runner Down . Now use pressing cloth and press with hot iron all over F tip and sides of crown . For pressing cloth use Cotton lan ‘ nel with hairy side on hat .