Gaztelugatxe dates from the tenth century and is home to the hermitage dedicated to John the Baptist. Juan Mari and Elena Arzak are royalty 56 4 HR 5,000 in these parts, and you don’t stand up MILES 40 MIN CALORIES BURNED royalty. In the 1970s, Juan Mari helped define the New Basque cooking, a move- Any notion that this trip would ment that paved the way for places like the consist of those breezy rides you see legendary El Bulli. They are still pushing pictured in brochures was crushed 15 the envelope creatively while remaining minutes into our first day. My group had true to the ingredients and flavors that left San Sebastián, our launching pad define the region. Just as I cracked into for the next three days, and we were now the Monkfish Green Witch—a crisp green IT SOUNDS LIKE the name of climbing Jaizkibel, a mountain that often orb of rice—to reveal a perfectly cooked the wicked stepmother in a Disney breaks professional riders during local piece of monkfish, the energetic 71-year- film. Or a barren planet where races. I am not a professional. I’m a run- old Juan Mari stopped by to inquire about Darth Vader light-sabered Obi- ner who spins once in a while and, in nice our little adventure. He looked at the Wan Kenobi. weather, rides my bike from my home in empty bottle of Arzak Gran Reserva 1968 Urkiola, Urkiola, Urkiola—the Brooklyn to my office in Times Square. wine. “What day are you on?” he asked. word was charged with negative I’m in decent shape for a 39-year-old guy, Day one, we answered. He shook his head connotations. Mostly because but I’m no Greg LeMond. and walked away. I think he was trying to at this moment it was killing me. Halfway up the mountain, I tasted alco- tell us to go to bed. Urkiola is a mountain range in hol. I regretted the previous night’s the western Basque Country 20-plus-course blowout at destination of Spain, a 40-minute drive from restaurant Mugaritz. And those late- 50 3 HR 4,400 Bilbao. When seen from a car, night whiskeys were, in hindsight, truly MILES 30 MIN CALORIES its highest peak, Anboto—4,367 an amateur move. BURNED feet to the summit—is a limestone I was feeling the pain on every level I’m not quite sure how I managed beauty ideal for a leisurely picnic. when I saw a blue table ahead. We’d to get back on that bike. I did it for the But when you’re seeing it from reached the top after an hour-long climb, food, I guess. My saddle was, uh, tender. the seat of a bicycle after a long and Cesar Estevez, who was driving our My friend and fellow rider Alex Thoman week of riding, it’s terrifying. “team” car, had set up a snack. Suddenly gave me packets of chamois cream to help And to think I’d planned this. I was starving. I gobbled Marcona with friction and soreness. Along with I’m a professional (over-)eater, almonds and fresh figs (nature’s Power- Coke, it became part of my daily routine. TOP ROW, FROM LEFT: which means I’m never hungry. This Bar). Coca-Cola, much touted by pros for After a slice of tortilla española (imag- Dessert at Mugaritz; Ondarroa, is a particular problem when I travel its restorative powers after a long ride, ine olive oil–poached potatoes and onions on the Bay of Biscay; chef abroad. Three days into a trip, away tasted better than it ever had. loosely bound with eggs) at the beachside Victor Arguinzoniz at Etxebarri; from my normal routine, eating I was still shaking from the 40-mile-an- Café de la Concha, we headed southwest, Mt. Txindoki in the background. out for every meal—I’m stuffed. And hour descent when we arrived for lunch at winding through Pagoeta Natural Park LEFT: Cycling to Atxondo. then one day I wondered, What if Alameda, a Michelin-starred, family-run and down to the town of Tolosa. ABOVE, FROM LEFT: Restaurant I exercised before and after almost spot in the town of Hondarribia. But at Kevin Patricio, another friend on the Rekondo; turbot at Elkano. every meal? least I was starving. We quickly changed trip, who cooked in New York before mov- RIGHT: Fishing near San Antón. So that was the goal of this week- out of our spandex in a supermarket ing to his wife’s native San Sebastián, had BOTTOM ROW, FROM LEFT: long Tour de Basque: cycle a parking lot (a scene that would play out told me about Casa Julián. He touted it Porcini with egg yolk at Ganbara; whole bunch so I could eat a whole daily over the tour). Soon we were feast- as home to one of the world’s best steaks, Ganbara co-owner Amaiur bunch. I’d chosen the Basque ing on hand-carved pieces of lush ibérico and I trust him. Martinez Ortuzar; barnacles; a Country for selfish reasons. de bellota ham, creamy rice studded with After changing clothes in a parking lot regular hillside spectator. Located along the Bay of Biscay tiny squid, and local cheeses spread on in full sight of a group of teenagers, we in Northern Spain and a sliver of excellent house-made bread. But some- walked into what looked like the cluttered France, the region is known for thing didn’t feel right. There were six of storage room of a restaurant. And then we its fierce independence as well us around the table, but only one bottle stepped into the bare-bones dining room as its outstanding cuisine. San of wine—the easy-to-guzzle local white of my dreams. An ancient charcoal grill Sebastián alone boasts an obscene Txakoli. I was about to order another when anchored one corner of the cavelike space, number of Michelin stars (14) for I noticed our guide, Juan Carlos Nájera— which contained only six worn tables. Bot- a city of less than 200,000—not a sturdy pro mountain biker turned tour tles that looked older than America lined to mention its always-packed leader for the Basque cycle-maker Orbea— the smoke-stained walls. It was the truly pintxos (tapas) bars. And that’s wasn’t drinking. And then I remembered: one-of-a-kind place I live to discover. just one town. With great tables We had to get back to San Sebastián. I We ordered the entire menu—six spread throughout the rugged ordered another bottle of water. items, including sweet Little Gem let- countryside and coast, you’re never If dinner hadn’t been at the three- tuce hearts seasoned with salt and olive far from a life-changing meal. Michelin-starred Arzak, I probably would oil, blistered piquillo peppers, fat white The only question was: Would have gone to bed without even shower- asparagus, slices of spicy cured lomo, I live to taste my final reward? ing. But the father-daughter team of and, yes, just one (continues on page 115) 112 BONAPPETIT.COM • MAY 2014 MAY 2014 • BONAPPETIT.COM 113 Tireless tour leader Juan Carlos Nájera pauses for a portrait while climbing Urkiola (minutes before getting back on his bike and passing the author); the view from the top of Igueldo, just outside San Sebastián. GARLIC SHRIMP WITH CHILES DE ÁRBOL Ganbara, San Sebastián 6 appetizer servings Take care with these little shrimp: They’ll cook through quickly. (continued from page 112) bottle of wine But I was still doing the pedaling. And was licking the meat off the tiny bones, to share. Instead I got drunk on the main by the time we arrived at Elkano after an sweet and sticky with the fish’s natural Peel and devein 1 lb. small attraction: two three-inch-thick chul- intense ride to the coastal town of Getaria, gelatin. I was starting to wonder if all the shrimp. Heat ¼ cup olive oil etones de buey, bone-in rib steaks that had it was like I hadn’t eaten in days. Chefs cycling had somehow distorted my taste in a large skillet over medium been blanketed in salt and then grilled and food writers had told me that Elkano buds. Could it really be that I’d had two heat. Add 2 finely chopped perfectly by one of the owner’s sons. He is one of the world’s best fish restaurants. of the greatest meals of my life in less garlic cloves and 1 crumbled sliced them and then put the bones back Its whole grilled turbot was mentioned as than 24 hours? dried chile de árbol or ¼ tsp. on the grill to caramelize. I gnawed one one of the great dishes on the planet. The climb back to San Sebastián, even crushed red pepper flakes. for a good 10 minutes, then sank into my The parade of expertly cooked seafood in a torrential downpour, couldn’t dampen Cook, stirring occasionally, until chair. It was the best steak I’d ever eaten. was from another world: squid with cara- my spirit. I was ready to get back on my garlic is barely golden, about I have no idea how I rode back to San melized onions and a sauce made of its bike and see what else was in store. 1 minute. Season half of shrimp Sebastián without tipping over. own ink, grilled lobster with its bright with salt and cook until just orange roe, kokotxas (a Basque specialty translated on the menu as “delicate pen- cooked through, about 1 minute 65 4 HR 5,500 MILES 45 MIN CALORIES 50 3 HR 4,300 dulums of flesh growing in the throat of per side; transfer shrimp and BURNED MILES 30 MIN CALORIES hake”) served three ways, and, dang, that oil to a bowl.