CHITOSAN AND IMPROVED PIGMENT INK JET PRINTING ON TEXTILES A thesis submitted in fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Nasar Harun Momin B. Text. (Textile Chemistry), DKTE’s Textile Engineering Institute, 2000 M. Sc. Tech. (Textile Chemistry), University Institute of Chemical Technology, 2003 Textile Technology School of Fashion and Textiles Design and Social Context RMIT University March 2008 I DECLARATION I, Nasar Harun Momin certify that: a. except where due acknowledgement has been made, the work is that of the candidate alone; b. the work has not been submitted previously, in whole or in part, to qualify for any other academic award; c. the content of the thesis is the result of work which has been carried out in the school of Fashion and Textiles, RMIT University between April 2004 and 2008. d. any editorial work, paid or unpaid, carried out by a third party is acknowledged. e. ethics procedures and guidelines have been followed. -------------------------------------- Nasar Harun Momin March, 2008 II ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS All praises and thanks are to Allah, the Lord of the worlds, the most beneficent, the most merciful for helping me accomplish this work. May Allah reward those who contributed in fruition of this work. I would like to thank my supervisors Dr. Rajiv Padhye and Dr. Max White for their encouragement, kind support, enthusiastic attention, critical discussions, valuable advice and guidance. My appreciations are extended to: Mac Fergusson, Lecturer in School of Fashion and Textiles, for giving valuable advice and help on many aspects of this research work; Ms. Trudie orchard Manager (Testing Services), Ms. Fiona Greygoose, Ms. Tracy Mcdonald, Ms. Aparna Chuabal, Ms. Kerry Potter and Ms. Kristine Landolac (Technical Officers (Testing Services)), for assisting with the testing involved in this work; Dr. Julie Niere, Senior Lecturer, School of Applied sciences, for the help in HNMR Spectroscopy; Robert Shanks, Professor, Applied Sciences, for allowing me to work in the Applied Chemistry laboratories; Karl Lang, Laboratory Manager, Mrs. Zahra Homan, Laboratory Technical officer and Mrs. Nadia Zakhatchouk, Laboratory Technician, for assisting in experiments carried out in Applied Chemistry laboratory; Dr. Rahul Gupta, Post Doctoral Fellow and Mr. Andrew Chryss, Professional Officer in Rheology and Materials Processing Centre, for assisting with particle size Analysis; Frank Antoloasic, Technical officer, Applied Science, for helping with FTIR and X-ray Diffraction testing and analysis; Philip Francis, Manager Electron Microscopy, for helping with scanning electron microscopy; Gary Bryant, Associate Professor, Physics, for helping with particle size distribution analysis; Dr. Nurul Quazi, Research Fellow in Civil, Environmental and Chemical Engineering Department, for helping me with the analysis of FTIR results. I would like to thank my wife for her love and support during the preparation of this dissertation. My sincere thanks to Muhammad Javed, Muhammad Hashim and Muhammad Rashid for guiding me in personal and professional aspects of life. I also thank Kanesalingam Sinnappoo, Saniyat Islam, Awais Khatri, Dr. Lyndon Arnold, Ms. Fatima Abdallah, Anne Marino, Wendy Vella (Administrative officer), Dr. Olga Troynikov, Bruce Saunders, Nick Maggio, Harold Hefferman, Robert McLaughlin, Kam Datta, John Lalor, Suda Udayratna, Asad Soleja, Shushank Saini, Daniella Gentile and Vanessa Perry. I also wish to thank Keith Cowlishaw and Anna Solomun for helping with the administrative aspect of the PHD course. I thank RMIT University and School of Fashion and Textiles for funding this research. III DEDICATION This work is dedicated to my grandparents, parents and family members. IV TABLE OF CONTENTS TITLE PAGE.............................................................................................................................I DECLARATION .....................................................................................................................II ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS .................................................................................................. III DEDICATION ........................................................................................................................IV TABLE OF CONTENTS ........................................................................................................ V LIST OF TABLES..................................................................................................................XI LIST OF FIGURES.............................................................................................................XIV LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS.............................................................................................XVI ABSTRACT ..............................................................................................................................1 CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION ...........................................................................................3 1.1. The Global Market for Textile Printing............................................................................... 3 1.2. Changes in the Global Textile Printing Market...................................................................5 1.2.1. Geographical Changes................................................................................................ 5 1.2.2. Mass Customisation.................................................................................................... 5 1.2.3.Change in the Business Model .................................................................................... 5 1.2.4. Quick Response/ Just in Time Delivery ..................................................................... 6 1.2.5. Economic Factors in Textile Printing ........................................................................ 6 1.2.6. Ecology....................................................................................................................... 7 1.3. Why digital Ink Jet printing of Textiles ?............................................................................ 7 1.3.1. Current Status and Future of Digital Printing of Textiles ..........................................9 1.3.2. Inks and Processes for Digital Printing of Textiles ..................................................10 1.3.3. Dye Based Inks......................................................................................................... 11 1.3.4. Why Develop Pigment Based Inks? ......................................................................... 11 1.4. Limitations and Approaches in Development of Pigment Based Inks.............................. 12 1.4.1. Particle Size ............................................................................................................... 12 1.4.2. Dispersion Stability ................................................................................................... 12 1.4.3. Textile Binders for Ink Jet Printing ........................................................................... 13 1.4.3.1. Binder Requirements ........................................................................................ 13 1.4.3.2. Binder Application ........................................................................................... 14 CHAPTER II LITERATURE REVIEW ............................................................................ 15 2.1. Ink Jet Printing Technology .............................................................................................. 15 2.1.1. Continuous Ink Jet (CIJ).......................................................................................... 16 V 2.1.2. Drop on Demand (DOD) ......................................................................................... 19 2.1.2.1. Thermal or Bubble Jet Technology ................................................................ 19 2.1.2.2.Piezoelectric Technology ................................................................................ 20 2.1.2.3. Other Drop on Demand Technologies............................................................21 2.2. Textile Applications of Ink Jet Technologies.................................................................... 22 2.2.1. Early Developments ................................................................................................. 22 2.2.2. Continuous Ink Jet Technologies for Textiles..........................................................22 2.2.3. Drop on Demand Ink Jet Technologies for Textiles.................................................23 2.2.4. ITMA 2003- Recent Developments in Textile Ink Jet Printing .............................. 24 2.3. Classification of Ink Jet Inks. ............................................................................................ 28 2.4. Ink Jet Inks Properties ....................................................................................................... 30 2.5. Dye Based Ink Formulations ............................................................................................. 31 2.6. Pigment Based Ink Formulations ...................................................................................... 34 2.6.1. Stabilization of Pigment Particles............................................................................ 34 2.6.2. Mechanisms of Stabilization ................................................................................... 34 2.6.3. Review of Previous Work.......................................................................................