tailoring and dressm king 5 LINING a. SKIRT or DRESS Today’s fashions and fabrics often call for linings. This raises questions among the home seamstresses regarding types of lining and how to attach these to the garment. Lining serves many purposes. It: 0 gives a professional 100k and adds quality 0 adds body and/or opacity to lightweight or thin fabric 0 gives roundness to structural lines where needed 0 prevents sagging, stretch or “sitting " out” in straight skirts (helps to preserve shape of garment) ' 0 gives longer service to the garment 0 helps to eliminate wrinkles A distinCtion should be made among four sometimes confusing terms: 1. Lining refers to a material that partially or entirely covers the inside of a garment. It is assembled separately as though it were a second garment. It finishes the wrong side of the garment as well as serving the purposes listed C above. For better fit and more strength it should be cut on the same grain as the outer fabric. 2. Underlining is a material which is cut in the shape of the garment pieces. The underlining sections are staystitched to- the corresponding outer fabric sections before any seams are joined. This is especially good for loosely woven or thin fabrics. This treatment is usually called “double fabric con- struction.” It is also called backing or underlay. 3. Interlining ,is usually thought of as giving warmth to a coat as well as giving some shape. The interlining is cut' to match the garment pieces and is placed between the lining and the outer fabric. This material is usually heavier in weight than that used for underlining. The interlining should not be too heavy as it can add much. additional weight to the garment. If heavy lamb’s wool is used, it may need to be sewn to the lining instead of the outer fabric. 4. Interfacing is a piece of shaping material used to give body and sup- port to certain areas of the garment. It will also prevent stretching. It is cut in a shape similar to the facing. It is placed between the facing and garment as in the front of a coat and in the collar. Interfacing may also be. found in the lower edge of the coat or jacket and lower 'edge of the sleeves. The lining fabric you choose will be determined by the style of the gar- ment and the weight of the fabric to be lined. Lining should never be heavier than the outer fabric. The basic fabric should mold the lining and not the lin- ing mold the fabric. Test all fabrics (lining, interfacing, and outer fabric) together to determine the effect. The color of the lining should match or form a pleasing contrast with the outer fabric. Be sure to select a pre-shrunk fabric (r. or one which can be pre-shrunk. Remember also to select a lining that calls for the same type cleaning as the outer fabric. The lining and outer fabric should have a similar amount of elasticity. For example, silk organza would not be used to line a knit fabric. Method of Garment Linings Underlinings Applying Tailored coats or Flat crepe, satin or twill Separate suit jackets lining with or without linings milium, lightweight taffeta with or without milium, rayon twill lining, tissue faille Batiste, lawn, percale, Double cotton sheath, Si Bonne, fabric Undercurrent, Touche, construction Veriform (basic liner) Wool Skirts Acetate or cotton sheath Same as lining material Separate lining, crepe same as lining or jacket double fabric construction Lawn or medium weight Same as lining material Either batiste (crease or method wrinkle resistant finish) Siri, Si Bonne, Touche Double fabric construction Lightweight taffeta Same as lining material Either method Dresses Rayon or cotton sheath Same as lining material Either (lightweight wool) lining, lightweight taffeta, method China silk, lightweight crepe, Si Bonne, Touche, Undercurrent, Veriform (basic liner) Silk shantung or a Silk organza, China Mainly double similar fabric silk, lawn, silk fabric con- surah struction; can be ‘ separate lining also Suiting (heavy Batiste, lawn, percale, Same as lining material Either cotton or rayon) cotton sheath, light- method weight broadcloth Loosely woven Batiste, lawn, cotton Double fabric fabric (mainly sheath, Si Bonne, construction cottons and Undercurrent, Touche cotton blends) Veriform (basic liner) Synthetics Nylon and Dacron georgette, Same as lining fabric Either nylon tulle, nylon chiffon, method nylon marquisette, nylon net, whipped cream Formal or semi- Net or non-woven Double fabric formal dresses fabric construction Bonded fabrics were promoted as not having to be lined. At the time of this printing, it had been reported many skirts stretched out of shape when no additional lining was used. The amount of stretch would depend on the fabric which was bonded—closeness of weave or tightness of knit—as well as the quality of tricot used for the backing. Personal judgment must be used in determining whether or not a bonded fabric needs additional lining and/or interfacing. LINING METHODS There are two basic methods of lining: (1) the separate lining, often known as the drum lining ( ” .. and (2) double fabric construction or underlining. Both serve a definite purpose. In most cases lin- ing should be used in front and back sections of the skirt and should be the full length of the skirt to prevent stretching and extra wrinkles. THE DRUM METHOD The drum method eliminates some bulk because darts and seams are stitched separately. It also gives a more finished look to the inside of the skirt. To line a skirt by this method, cut the lining from the pattern pieces with the skirt lining one inch shorter than the skirt. Stitch all darts and seams making the same alterations, if any, as made on the skirt. If a lining is more narrow than the skirt, it will relieve the strain on the outer fabric. This can be done by taking in 34" at the side seams of the lining, starting 5/8” below the waistline. Leave the right side of the skirt lining open for the zipper. Attaching Lining to Skirt 1. Place the wrong side (inside) of the lining fabric against the wrong side (inside) of the garment. Have the opened seam allowance of the skirt lying on the opened seam allowance of the lining. Fasten one edge of the seam allowances together with long, loose stitches. (Fig. 1) 2. Turn skirt so lining covers the inside seam work. Fasten with either long running stitches by hand or machine basting at the waist. Match darts and side seams. Do this before the waistband is applied. Sew lining to zipper by hand. (Fig. 2) Hem a full length skirt lining separately from the garment. For -‘a neater appearance, turn the lining hem toward the outer fabric. For a more professional look, use the same width hem in the lining as on the skirt. The lining will be finished one inch shorter than the skirt. The drum method of lining is recommended for most skirts. It is good for fabrics that tend to stretch such as knits and stretch fabrics and for medium to heavy-weight fabric. Attaching Lining to Bodice The same method as for the skirt is used for attaching the lining to the bodice of a dress. Line the bodice before attaching the skirt. The bottom of the bodice lining may be stitched in at the waistline or left free and lapped over the raw edges after the bodice and skirt are joined. This last method provides a neat finish to the underside of the garment. (Fig. 3) Sleeves may be lined or left Unlined; The Skirt Underlay The current trend of the short skirts and dresses seems to eliminate the need for extra fullness as provided by a kick pleat. However, if body or figure type necessitates the freedom pro- vided by this detail, a Skirt underlay should be considered. If the drum method of lining is used, the kick pleat in the skirt or dress may be eliminated by using a skirt underlay. Fol- low these steps for making the kick pleat and lining finish. 1. Make skirt following regular procedure except fOr back seam. A total of 21/2" is allowed for back seam edge. Start at lower edge of pleat and machine baste back pleat along fold line to end of pleat. Lock stitch end of pleat and permanent stitch remainder of seam. Press seam open. Machine baste upper edges of allowance to waistline edge of skirt. Do not trim off any of the 21/2” back seam even though the guide sheet states this. Remove basting from pleat after pressing. (Fig. 4) 2. Apply zipper. 3. Stitch lining as usual leaving both sides open from lower edge about 6 to 8 inches. Press darts toward side seams. Press open side seams continuing to the lower edge. Turn under 1/1, inch of seam allowance and stitch to form a narrow hem. Attach lining to skirt in usual manner. (Fig. 4) 4. Apply waistband (if a skirt). 5. Hem skirt leaving lining free. Open out back extension edges of garment, turn up hem, and press. Apply seam binding to cut edge of hem. Slip—stitch hem to skirt. Apply seam binding to back extension edges of garment. Turn under lower ends of binding. Slip-stitch lower edges of extension to hem. Adjust width of hem in lining making it the same as the skirt. Turn up hem and press. Turn under 1/1,” and stitch. Slip-stitch hem to lining. 6. To make the skirt underlay, cut a square 12" x 12”.