the fabled adriatic September 1 - 14, 2015 CROATIA Sibenik Split Hvar ITALY Dubrovnik MONTENEGRO Kotor ADRIATIC SEA Durres Tirana ALBANIA Saranda Butrint IONIAN SEA SICILY Agrigento Licata Syracuse MEDITERRANEAN SEA MALTA Valletta Wednesday, September 2, 2015 Dubrovnik, Croatia Welcome to Croatia! After checking into the Valamar Lacroma Dubrovnik Hotel, we checked in with Cruise Director Kelsey Simmons before setting off to enjoy the amenities of the hotel’s coastal location or to explore the Old City of Dubrovnik. Evening found us enjoying a welcome wine reception on an outdoor terrace overlooking the fabled Adriatic, and meeting new friends and old among our fellow travelers. At dinner, Expedition Leader Lia Oprea introduced the staff members before briefing us for the exciting days ahead in Dubrovnik. Thursday, September 3 Dubrovnik Waking to a sparkling morning, we began our day with a classic view of the 1,300-year-old town that became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979. We divided into groups at the iconic circular Onofrio Fountain and many of us opted to walk the walls to enjoy stunning seaward vistas and a view over the city. Here, our first wildlife sighting occurred when a lizard was spotted, lapping up dried-up sugary drinks at one of the cafés along the way. Those of us not wall- walking enjoyed a stroll through the Old City with our local guide who explained the history of the various buildings and monuments. At the 17th-century Cathedral of Assumption of the Virgin, we were able to view the treasury of reliquaries and a noted Titian painting before we continued to the tiny but interesting maritime museum perched high in the walls between the Old Port and the sea. Here, we bumped into the wall-walkers, who continued through town to tour the city at ground level. The rest of us strolled to the Old Port to see the sites of former shipyard buildings, now mostly housing tempting seafood restaurants. We finished our morning with a visit to the Dominican Monastery, which still functions despite having only four monks remaining, and viewed its treasure trove of 15th- and 16th-century paintings, icons, and jewelry. Everyone convened in the courtyard of the Klarisa Restaurant for a buffet of regional specialties. With the afternoon at leisure, most of us stayed within the walls to explore, shop, and dine into the evening. September 4 Dubrovnik / Cavtat / Embark Variety Voyager Morning found us overlooking the city on our way to the much smaller town of Cavtat, the vacation ideal of Croatians. Some of us explored small artisan’s shops, or lolled in seaside cafés enjoying the quiet and onshore breeze. From here, we headed into the countryside through a broad fertile valley and through small farming communities to arrive at a restored grist mill where we were greeted with an assortment of local brandies including cherry, loquat, and grappa, as well as lemonade and cider, candied almonds, and delicious chewy figs. After a demonstration of the mill mechanisms, we followed the millstream upward to see a restored mill in operation; we then retraced our steps along the shady boardwalk to a pavilion where fresh bread, cheese, and ham awaited us with olives, pickles, and local wines. Rich Pagen led a walk farther upstream for those wishing to spend a little more time in the cool green of the woods, and looked for aquatic invertebrates such as caddisfly larvae. Most of us chose to walk to the nearby Vinica Monković restaurant, set on outdoor platforms along the stream, and had a delicious leisurely lunch. Later, a local tender took us to the Variety Voyager, anchored off the Old Port in the lee of Lokrum Island, a UNESCO-protected national park. We were soon settled in our cabins and met Captain Andreas Sifniotis who introduced his officers and ship’s staff. Soon we were on deck to enjoy the breeze while we watched Dubrovnik fade astern. Saturday, September 5 Sibenik / Krka National Park Approaching Sibenik, we passed small flocks of black-headed gulls and even spotted a few dolphins.We refused to let a rainy morning dampen our spirits and walked from the ship into the heart of town through curving streets and open squares dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries. As there was a mass at the Cathedral of St. James, we admired the exterior architecture, including the frieze of 71 heads that are vivid character studies of ordinary 15th-century citizens, one possibly being the architect himself. Boarding our buses, we headed to Krka National Park named for the river flowing through it over numerous spectacular waterfalls and cascades. Those feeling energetic embarked on small boats that deposited us at the base of swimmable falls, before hiking to the boardwalks and historic structures at the top. The rest of us rode to the upper level and walked through the park to outlook points, then toured the multi-mill complex, housing reconstructed milling activities, traditional crafts, souvenirs, and an exhibit on the history of hydraulic power plants in the country. Once we were all assembled at the top, we rejoined our buses for lunch just outside the park boundary. Back in Sibenik there was leisure time to visit the cathedral, shop at a local Renaissance Fair, and generally wander through town. Back onboard, Allan Langdale prepared us for tomorrow’s adventure with his lecture, The Palace of Diocletian at Split. At our recap and briefing, Ron Wixman provided an overview of The Yugoslav War, and answered our myriad questions about this complex event. After these presentations, many of us elected to dine ashore before the Variety Voyager turned its bow toward our next destination. Sunday, September 6 Split / Hvar Island We began our morning with a scenic drive to the Meštrović Gallery. Formerly the home of Ivan Meštrović, the artist and sculptor donated it to the city when he retired following World War II. The peaceful gardens and sun-washed view of the sea made it clear why he had chosen this location, and the sculptures and other examples of his work were beautifully displayed. They helped put in perspective the sculpture we saw yesterday, and provided a base for those we would continue to see around Split; including the iconic Gregory of Nin, whose toe is polished by passersby touching it for luck. Returning to the heart of Croatia’s second largest city, we strolled a few blocks along the façade of Roman Emperor Diocletian’s retirement palace, built between 295-305 A.D. Reaching one of the entry points, we were able to explore the warren of rooms that comprise the basement level of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. After touring the area and finding our bearings, we set off for individual exploration, before strolling along the waterfront to return to our ship. In Hvar, it was impossible to miss the island’s fame for lavender production as it wafted from sachets, soaps, oils, creams, and honey derived from the blooms. To visit the Cathedral of St. Stephen, we crossed the main square of the same name, which is one of the largest old squares in Dalmatia. Climbing up the steeply stepped streets, we reached the Benedictine Monastery museum where the nuns living there have recreated rooms from a Renaissance period house, and are famous for their production of fine lace from the fibers of agave plants. At this point, we divided between those feeling the need for exercise who continued up the staircase streets to the 16th-century Španjol Citadel crowning the mountain above, and those who strolled through the pretty town and later rode buses to the peak. Once there, we were treated to fresh fruit, ice cream, and libations, as well as spectacular vistas of the sea and our ship below. Back on board, we scurried to prepare for the captain’s welcome cocktail party and dinner. Monday, September 7 Kotor, Montenegro Sailing into the narrow opening to the extensive Bay of Kotor, many of us came on deck to view two tiny islands that are home to the Benedictine Monastery of St. George and Our Lady of the Rock Church. The latter sits on an artificial island created in the 15th century, allegedly by mariners grateful for surviving a storm. Some of us decided to travel to the nearby town of Perast to catch a local boat to visit the church and then St. Nicholas in the town proper. Those of us wishing for a bird’s eye view of Kotor and surrounding area ascended 1,350 steps to the fortifications 3,937 feet above the town on Mount St. Ivan, joined by swirling crag martins and house martins at the top. Still others boarded buses for a trip across the adjacent peninsula for wonderful scenery culminating in a visit to the Moric Family Organic Olive Farm for an olive oil tasting. In the tasting cellar we learned the proper way to taste and assess olive oil, especially for freshness, and then enjoyed a lunch comprised of organic foods from the farm. Back in Kotor, another UNESCO World Heritage Site, we all convened onboard to compare notes on our various activities with our fellow travelers. Our historian, Roger Crowley, then presented The Venetian Adriatic. Those of us touring Kotor entered through the Venetian Sea Gate and wound our way through the labyrinth of narrow streets punctuated by courtyards and squares boasting churches, museums, cafés, and shops. We visited the Maritime Museum, housed in an 18th-century palace, as well as St. Tryphon’s Cathedral, the highlight of which was its gilded silver altar screen and interesting architecture.